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SALT ON THE UP AND UP

 

 

 

Craig Cormack travels the world with salt
and introduces us to the relationship with
food and wine, a wonderful taste sensation!

 

See Craig’s recipes using various salts
from Himalayan Salt Crystal cured
salmon to Pink Peruvian Salt focaccia. 


"It was a fascinating challenge," explains Craig Cormack, "pairing dishes with different salts. Dishes, which have been designed for a specific flavour and taste, not only to fit a flavour profile, but also to pair with a wine. An interesting task, because, as we know, salt dominates food, which in turn makes wine textures richer, sometimes smoother."

 

"Salt can cut through foods, at times giving the wine a flat taste, loosing the flavours of the wine. However, it can also accentuate the tannins and alcohol. Sweet wines, interestingly, can be paired very well with salt. Moderately sweet wines compliment salt.  Cabernet Sauvignon stands up to salt well, as do young and acidic wines, and those with a bit of wood. Salt influences the tannins in red wine. A wooded chenin blanc is also a good pair."

 

"Salt is one of the four basic tastes (sweet, bitter and sour are the others.) The salt taste sensation is found on the front and upper sides of the tongue. Some salts are saltier than others and they have different flavours and colours depending on where they come from and region to region in that country." 

 

In salt, food and wine pairings there should be perfect
balance with neither one nor the other dominating. 
 

 

 


Different forms of salt:

 

Rock Salt: Known as halite, is a mineral form of sodium chloride. It forms isometric crystals. Colourless to yellow, light blue, dark blue or pink. Halite occurs in vast beds of sedimentary evaporated minerals, the result from drying up of enclosed lakes and seas. 

 

Unrefined Natural Sea Salt: A crystalline solid, white, pale pink or light grey in colour normally obtained from sea water or rock deposits. Edible rock salts may be grayish in colour due to mineral content. Natural salts have different minerals and unique flavours. There are 80 minerals found in salt, trace amounts of iron, magnesium, calcium, potassium and zinc etc.

 

Iodised Salt: Mixed with a small amount of potassium iodide, added to reduce chance of iodine deficiency. 

 

Refined Table Salt: Chemicals, anti caking agents, stabilizers and colouring as well as iodine are added. Silicon dioxide is added to help prevent caking. This salt is chemically cleaned and therefore has a loss of inherent goodness. (Far better to use natural salt with out additives.)

 

Different salts found from around the world:

 

1. Maldon Sea Salt: Sea harvested from the coastal town of Essex in the United Kingdom, this has been the salt producing centre since the middle ages.  Snow white flakes, slow melting, gentle mild sodium.

 

2. Khoisan Sea Salt Crystals: Khoisan The salt is lower in sodium and higher in calcium compared to most salts. Khoisan sea salt is easily available in South Africa and used by most top chefs. 

 

3. Pink Peruvian Rock Salt: This salt comes from the Andes mountains in Peru. Here terraced ponds have been harvested for the past 2000 years to produce large pale pink crystals with a gentle finish.

 

4. Black & Brown Volcanic Salt from Pakistan: Dark volcanic salts with a sulphur or a rotten egg smell. Gentle sodium flavour, colour light brown/ reddish. 

 

5. Himalayan Rock Salt Crystals: Light pinky, orange colour due to a presence of minerals and nutrients found naturally in sedimentary rock. Taste is very flavourful, yet subtle.  

 

6. Smoked Danish Viking salt: This is a made through an evaporation process in a vessel over an open fire. Dark brown hard salt crystals, very smoky or wooded flavour, strong sodium with a long finish.

 

7. Murray River Flakes: Salt water from an underground salt lake in Australia is pumped up and evaporated by the sun.

 

8. Fleur de Sel: France – salt pan harvested. Only when the weather conditions are perfect a thin fleece of salt appears on the surface of the sea water in the salt pan. This fleece is harvested by hand and dried by the sun.

 

9. Hawaiian Red Sea Salt: Sea water, solar evaporated in a greenhouse.

 

10. Kala Namak Indian Black Salt: Mine salt, also named stone or rock-salt, is harvested through digging by hand or machines.

 

11. Nuchi Masu: Japan Sea water, evaporated by artificial heating.

 

12. Portugal Sierra Rica Salt: Sea water solar evaporated, sea water natural evaporated in natural salt-pan (saline), by the sun.

 

13. Usa Utah: Vacuüm Zout, injected (sweet) water into a underground layer of salt, pumped up and evaporated by artificial heating. Sea water evaporated by artificial heating.


History and Customs

 

The Egyptians were the first to evaporate seawater methodically to extract salt and the Phoenicians brought early salt gathering to the Portuguese coast. Salt was used and mined in estuaries before Christ and this ancient practice is still followed today. Seawater evaporates in pools of water with the aid of the sun and wind, until the salt becomes concentrated and is scooped out for all to use.

 

Salt was used as money. The word salary comes from the Latin word salaruim as Roman soldiers were paid with salt.

 

Salt is a dietary essential for animal life, composed primarily of sodium chloride. It is a key representative in preserving food.

 

In my search I have found that there are more than 50 different naturally occurring salts.

 

Salt {NaCI} - Alchemists refer to salt as the 5th element.

 

CHEESE STRAWS

 

2 x 500 g rolls puff pastry
1 egg
150 g mature cheddar cheese
15 g Maldon salt
2 g black pepper
5 g smoked paprika
1 tablespoon chopped parsley

 

Roll out one roll of puff pastry, brush with beaten egg. Grate the cheese and sprinkle over the pastry, season with salt, black pepper, smoked paprika and chopped parsley.  Roll out remaining roll of pastry, brush with egg.  Place on top of the cheese topped pastry and roll out a little more - this will compact the pastry together. 

 

Trim the pastry until square. Cut into strips, twist the strips into the shape of a cheese straw, brush with egg, season with salt and place on a baking tray. Bake in a hot oven at 210º C for 8-10 minutes until golden brown. Remove from the oven and allow to cool, remove from the tray and store in an airtight container.

 

 

HAWAIIAN BLACK SALT AND BUTTERED POPCORN

 

300 g popcorn
30 ml vegetable oil
15 g butter
15 g Hawaiian black salt

 

Place the vegetable oil in a saucepan and when warm, add the popcorn cover. It should take around 5 minutes before the popcorn starts popping. Melt some salted butter and toss the popcorn into the butter and season with the Hawaiian black salt.

 

 

HIMALAYAN SALT CRYSTAL CURED SALMON TROUT WITH PINK PERUVIAN SALT FOCCACIA, WINTER GREENS AND A GARLIC AND PARSLEY EMULSION

 

Cured Salmon Trout:
25 g Himalayan salt
25 g Khoisan table salt
100 g sugar
1 side of trout (about 300 g)
(Serves 5) 

 

Mix salt and sugar and spoon half on to a tray. Place the side of salmon on the salt and sprinkle over remaining salt sugar mixture. Allow to cure for 3 to 4 hours.

 

Foccacia Bread:
500 g flour
15 g yeast
15 g salt 
300 ml water
30 g honey 
40 g oil
150 ml milk
1 egg
15 g garlic
15 g thyme freshly chopped
15 g oregano
10 olives, de pipped  sprinkled over
(Makes 1 loaf)

 

Garnish:
5 g chopped garlic
8g dried thyme
8 g dried oregano
chopped olives to taste
Pink Peruvian salt

 

To make Foccacia: Mix the dry ingredients, then add all the wet ingredients together and mix well in a mixer until all the ingredients are incorporated. Allow to prove or rise in a warm spot in the kitchen for half an hour or until it doubles in size. Then roll out and top with with the remaining ingredients to season. Allow to prove again until double in size. Place in the oven at 180ºC for 20 minutes. 

 

Winter Greens:
10 g watercress
10 g baby leaves
salt to taste
10 ml olive oil
juice of half a lemon

 

Wash the greens, place into a mixing bowl, season with salt, olive oil and lemon juice. 

 

Garlic and Parsley Emulsion:
100 ml milk
1 clove garlic
200 ml vegetable oil
few sprigs of parsley

 

In a blender add the milk and garlic. Blend until fine, then drizzle the oil in slowly, until the sauce begins to emulsify.

 

 

SEARED TUNA, FENNEL SALAD, TRUFFLE OIL SERVED WITH MALDON SALT AND VINEGAR SAUCE

 

Seared Tuna:
350 g tuna, fresh
20 g Maldon salt
15 g olive oil
( Serves 4)

 

To sear the tuna, season with salt, place in a hot pan and sear both sides until lightly brown, a minute or two only.  Chill the tuna for a few hours, covered with was paper in the fridge. When ready slice.

 

Salt and vinegar sauce:
15ml malt vinegar
15 ml white wine
25 ml cream
15 g butter
15 g Khoisan salt

 

In a hot saucepan, reduce vinegar by half, then add the white wine and reduce by half again. Add the cream and reduce by half. Add  salt. Drizzle the sauce over and around the tuna.

 

Fennel Salad:
2 large fennel bulbs, thinly sliced
12 sliced cocktail tomatoes
¼ sliced onion
15 g sprouts
1 of leek, sliced
pinch salt
pinch pepper
few leaves parsley
10 ml olive oil
5 ml truffle oil 
Maldon salt 

 

Lightly toss all salad greens together and drizzle

Khoisan Sea Salt - See More Khoisan Sea Salt on Showcook
Contact Britt Geach:
khoisanbritt@mweb.co.za

 

Pakistan and Himalayan rock salt:
Contact Anthony Posemann:
Info@universalvision.co.za  

 

 

Join award winning Chef Craig Cormack at Overture Restaurant 
with Corina du Toit of Hidden Valley Wines 

 

Phone: +27 (0) 21 880 2646 Fax: +27 (0) 21 880 2645
info@hiddenvalleywines.co.za
Hidden Valley Wines Off Annandale Road, R44, Stellenbosch

 

GPS: 34º 01’ 15.18” S 
18º 51’ 12.92” E

 

 

 
 

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