Soups, glorious soups. When the leaves have fallen, thoughts turn to home-made soups; rich, wholesome and essentially simple. There is nothing more warming and comforting!
The one basic essential when producing a good soup is a strong stock; either chicken, beef or fish. This can be prepared in advance and frozen or for soups requiring a meat base, prepare the entire soup on the day together with the vegetables. An alternative is to use stock cubes in place of a home-made stock, these can be satisfactory if without flavour enhances. Once you have acquired the habit of making a home-made stock, you will find it hugely rewarding.
HELPLINE:
* Use a heavy-based, large soup pot for slow cooking.
* Bring the thoroughly washed chicken giblets, necks and gizzards; or shin, brisket and a marrow bone or two; or fish trimmings in about 2,5 litres cold water to the boil. Cold water draws out the flavours.
* Skim meticulously before adding well-washed vegetables; 2 peeled carrots, 4 bay leaves, 3-4 whole cloves, 2 celery stalks, 1 onion halved (with skin!).
* Continue simmering for 4-5 hours. For fish stock cook only for 30 minutes and strain.
* The next day skim off any fat that has formed on the surface. Remove bones and vegetables. Strain, refrigerate or freeze the stock until needed.
* If you have a slow cooker, simmer the stock overnight.
CREAMED SPINACH & CHICKEN SOUP
4 tbsp butter
5 heaped tbsp flour
1 tbsp powdered mustard
2 litres (8 cups) strong home-made chicken stock
sea salt and milled black pepper to taste
4 tbsp dry tapioca soaked in 1 cup of water, drained
125 ml (½ cup) dry white wine
100 g fresh spinach, trimmed blanched, refreshed and chopped
2 egg yolks
250 ml (1 cup) thick cream
(Serves 6 - 8)
Melt butter in a saucepan. When hot and bubbly stir in flour and mustard. Continue to stir until mixture turns golden. Gradually add chicken stock, stirring or whisking constantly to smooth away any little lumps of flour. Sprinkle with seasoning to taste. Add tapioca and continue simmering for 15 minutes. Add white wine and spinach. Remove chicken stock from the heat. Whisk yolks into cream. Slowly add a little soup and mix. While stirring, carefully pour cream mixture into remaining hot soup. Reheat carefully but do not bring to the boil as soup will curdle. When using this soup for a dinner party you can add a little extra cream and toasted almond nibs.
ROASTED PUMPKIN & GINGER SOUP
4 tbsp butter
1 tsp vegetable oil
2 tbsp grated ginger or 2 tsp ginger paste
1 kg pumpkin, diced
2 large parsnips, diced
1 large onion, diced
1 sprig celery leaves, chopped
1½ tsp medium-strength chilli flakes
freshly grated nutmeg
sea salt and milled black pepper
2 tbsp cornflour for thickening, if necessary
750 ml (3 cups) chicken stock (home-made when possible)
500 ml (2 cups) milk
60 ml cream
(Serves 4)
Heat butter and oil in a roasting pan until foaming. Add ginger, vegetables and spices. Roast at 180°C until softened, 15 - 30 minutes. Transfer to a large heavy-based saucepan. Sprinkle with cornflour. Gradually add chicken stock and then milk, stirring constantly. Continue cooking, stirring until soup slightly thickens and comes to the boil for a second or two. Remove and cool for 10 - 15 minutes.Process, blend or purée until smooth. Return to the saucepan and reheat over low heat. Season to taste. Stir in cream and serve in piping hot soup bowls.
CARROT, ORANGE & CUMIN
1 kg fresh carrots, peeled
4 tbsp butter
4 tbsp finely grated orange peel
¼ tsp cumin seeds
2 large potatoes, diced
1 large onion, finely chopped
6 sprigs leafy celery
sea salt and milled black pepper
freshly grated nutmeg
1 tbsp cornflour for thickening
750 ml (3 cups) home-made chicken stock
500 ml (2 cups) milk
60 ml (4 tbsp) cream
(Serves 4)
Heat butter in a large, heavy-based saucepan until foaming. Add carrots, orange peel, cumin and remaining vegetables. Stir-fry for 2 - 5 minutes, then cover and cook very gently over low heat until all the vegetables are soft; 15 - 30 minutes, depending on size of chunks. Stir with a wooden spoon from time to time. Season with a little salt, pepper and nutmeg. Sprinkle with cornflour and stir thoroughly.
Gradually add first the chicken stock and then the milk, stirring constantly. Continue cooking, stirring, until the soup comes to the boil. Remove the saucepan from the stove, transfer the soup to a food processor or blender and purée until smooth. Return it to the saucepan and heat through. Stir in the cream and serve in heated soup bowls.
WINTER COURGETTE SOUP
2 - 3 tbsp butter
2 leeks, finely shredded
500 g courgettes, trimmed and coarsely chopped
1½ litres chicken stock
1 large egg yolk
125 ml cream
sea salt and freshly milled pepper
1 tbsp fine lemon zest
(Serves 4)
Heat butter and sauté leeks and courgettes very gently. When tender and still retaining their lovely colour remove and purée in a food processor. Add stock to vegetables, bring to the boil and simmer covered for 5 - 10 minutes. Beat the egg yolk and cream together in a bowl. Heat the soup through and add a little of it to the egg mixture, then stir the mixture into the soup and heat it gently. Do not let it boil as it will curdle. Season to taste add lemon zest and serve in large heated cups.
CURRIED FRESH PEA SOUP
1 large onion
1 small bunch flat leaf parsley
1 butter lettuce, washed and chopped
300 g shelled fresh peas or frozen
3 tbsp butter
5 tbsp thick cream
1 tbsp medium-hot curry powder
1½ litres strong chicken stock
4 slices soft fresh white bread, crusts removed and diced
sea salt
(Serves 4 - 6)
Slice the onion into fine rounds and cook in half the butter in the saucepan until softened and a pale gold. Add lettuce to the onion in the pan, allow to soften for 8 minutes, add curry powder and stir well. Pour in stock and salt lightly. Bring to the boil and cook briskly for 5 minutes. Add parsley and peas. Do not cover the pan while cooking, this will preserve the rich green of the peas.
While the vegetables are cooking sauté bread with remaining butter in a frying pan, stirring well, until they are golden. Drain and keep hot. Blend cooked peas until creamy. Strain the puréed soup through a fine sieve. Pour the soup back into the saucepan and reheat. Add 5 tablespoons of cream as it comes to the boil. Check seasoning and serve in piping hot plates and sprinkle each serving with crisp croutons.
CHICK PEA & LENTIL SOUP
250 g chick peas, soaked in water for at least 1 hour or overnight
3 litres water
1 large onion, coarsely chopped
400 g can chopped tomatoes
3 celery stalks and leaves, sliced
2 tbsp tomato paste
generous pinch of dried chilli flakes
milled black pepper
200 g large brown or green lentils, soaked for 1 hour, then drained
sea salt to taste
juice of ½ lemon
500 g courgettes, sliced
100 g vermicelli pasta, broken into bits by crushing in your hands
a large bunch of flat leafed parsley, coarsely chopped
a large bunch (½ cup) coriander, coarsely chopped
125 ml soured cream
(Serves 8 - 10)
Drain chick peas and place in a large saucepan with water, onion, tomatoes, celery, tomato paste and chilli flakes. Add pepper and simmer covered for 1 hour or until chick peas are very tender. Add lentils and cook for 20 minutes, or until lentils are soft. Add salt to taste. Add lemon juice, courgettes and vermicelli pasta, and more water if necessary. Cook for 10 minutes longer. Just before serving add parsley, coriander and stir in a little cream into each serving. Do make sure the soup is piping hot and serve in heated soup plates.
CREAM OF GARLIC SOUP
2 heads of garlic, peeled
4 tbsp butter
2 carrots, peeled and grated
1 medium size potato, diced
1 large onion, finely chopped
3 sprigs soup celery, chopped
2 thick slices white bread, crumbed
sea salt and milled black pepper
700 ml strong home-made chicken stock
500 ml (2 cups) full-cream milk
a generous pinch of dried tarragon
125 ml cream
(Serves 4)
Heat butter in a large, heavy-based saucepan until foaming. Add garlic cloves and vegetables. Stir-fry for 2 - 5 minutes, then cover and cook very gently over low heat until all the vegetables are soft; 20 minutes. Add breadcrumbs. Stir with a wooden spoon from time to time. Season with a little salt and pepper. Gradually add first the chicken stock and then the milk, stirring constantly. Continue cooking, stirring, until the soup comes to the boil. Remove the saucepan from the stove, transfer the soup to a food processor or blender and puree until smooth. Heat soup through, add tarragon. Stir in the cream and serve in piping hot soup bowls.
SAFFRON MUSSEL SOUP
500 g shelled fresh, frozen or canned mussels
8 mussels on the half shell
1 large onion, finely chopped
2 carrots, finely shredded
2 leeks, finely shredded
45 g butter
10 ml (2 tsp) medium-strength curry powder, mixed with little boiling water to form smooth paste
4-6 threads saffron, crushed
30 ml (2 tbsp) cornflour
4 cloves garlic, crushed
1,5 litre home-made reduced chicken stock
250 ml (1 cup) milk
sea salt and milled black pepper
15 ml (1 tbsp) lemon zest
125-250 ml (½ - 1 cup) cream
30 ml (2 tbsp) coriander sprigs
2 ml chilli flakes
(Serves 4)
Soften onion, carrots and leeks in butter in a heavy-based saucepan, over gentle heat. Add curry powder and saffron. Stir in cornflour and garlic. Add chicken stock and milk, gradually bring to the boil and simmer for 20 minutes. Add mussels, salt, milled black pepper and lemon peel. Add cream. Check seasoning.Sprinkle with coriander and chilli flakes. Cook for a few minutes longer and serve piping hot.
INSPIRATIONS
Soup and bread are the perfect partners. Crisp and crunchy flat breads, crusty Italian or Portuguese rolls or breads, toasted Focaccia and French baguette. Serve them plain, warm, fresh from the oven, sometimes sprinkled with a little olive oil, sea salt and for simpler, less rich soups with a little chopped fresh garlic. Whichever breads you serve they will benefit from a final crisping. The big no-no is microwaving bread!
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