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CURD WITH A DIFFERENCE
By Oded Schwartz
Oded Schwartz takes us through
step-by-step to a rosé grapefruit curd,
close cousin to an old favourite lemon
curd made in a similar way,
but each of these curds have a
very distinctive flavour.
 
If marmalade conjures up images of
sunshine, frying bacon, toast and tea - the
English breakfast type, fruit curds are
totally redolent of the scent of freshly mown
lawn, extravagant hats, the mellow light
of the late summer afternoon and a
table magnificently set for High Tea.
Curd is a curious term; it usually refers to the coagulated protein (casein) which results when milk goes sour. During the Middle Ages the word ‘curd’ acquired a new meaning – one had an immediate vision of a baked tart, filled with a crude custard made from eggs, sugar and flour. It was only toward the middle of the 18th century that cookery books started to publish recipes for ‘fruit curds’ which became very popular, particularly the best-loved lemon meringue pie. They caught on in Europe and in the USA, where they are now mostly known as butters.
But those early curds were in fact luxury items, developed in every Victorian country-house kitchen, the hub of the home. Even modest-sized country estates had their conservatories, a dairy, a hen house and plenty of maids in the kitchen, and curds were made throughout the summer, particularly using citrus fruit and raspberries in those early days. Sugar was becoming cheaper and more refined, and cooking ranges more sophisticated with better heat control, which made fruit curds far easier to make.
Out of this pampered, soporific
period, the phenomenon known as the
British High tea was born. And scones
and crumpets, covered in fruit curd,
and topped with a dollop of
cream, were hugely enjoyed.
From its inception, fruit curd was never mundane or banal - rather, always implying luxury, if not downright decadence. How else could one describe something which was a rich, smooth and fragrant amalgamation of fruit juice and pulp, thickened with sugar, eggs and butter? A versatile sweet paste which could be used as a jam with scones and cream and also as a base for desserts such as Pavlovas, meringues, fruit pies and tartlets?
When a better quality of clear, glass jar became more readily available, fruit curds turned out to be one of the favourite ‘little somethings’ to give as gifts when visiting. They are still today a favourite in many Church bazaars and country fairs, and for filling up that Christmas stocking. Curds do not have a long shelf-life, but if stored properly, unpasteurised curds can last for up to three months.
I find curds very relevant to the contemporary kitchen. Although not very slimming, they make a superbly light, refreshing and instant alternative in tarts, cakes and various desserts.
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ROSÉ GRAPEFRUIT AND ORANGE CURD
Although not traditional Ruby Red grapefruit makes a superb curd, delicately pink and with an interesting texture that is achieved by adding some chopped flesh into the mixture.
Do hunt for the proper Ruby Red grapefruit as the ordinary pink grapefruit makes a very anaemic product.
The same recipe can be used to make the traditional lemon curd using 500 ml of lemon juice and the grated peel of 6 lemons.
1 large Ruby Red grapefruit, juice, grated peel
1 large Ruby Red grapefruit, filleted
2 large lemons, juice only
350 g sugar
100 g butter, cubed
4 eggs (size 3) + 2 yolks, whisked until thickened
3 tbsp orange flour water (optional)
  
With a sharp knife, cut off all the peel from one of the grapefruits, following the curve of the fruit and removing all the white pith. Carefully cut out all the segments of flesh between the membranes and chop them coarsely. Do this over a bowl to capture the juice. When all done squeeze the membrane to extract the remaining juice.
 
 
Grate the peel of the second grapefruit and add it together with its strained juice and the strained juice of the lemons. You should have about 450 – 500 ml of juice. If not enough, top up with more grapefruit juice.
  
Heat the mixture in a small pan, add the sugar and butter stirring constantly until all dissolved and the mixture have reached boiling point.
   
Watch point: While thickening stir the curd
continuously using a wooden spoon!
Pour into the top part of a double boiler or a bowl placed over a pan of barely simmering water. Stir the eggs into the mixture and mix briskly.
Simmer gently, stirring frequently until thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Do not allow to boil or it will curdle.
Remove from the heat and stir in the orange flower water (if used).
Place a spoonful of the curd on a plate and draw the back of a spoon through the curd, to test for setting.
Fill into bottles and cover the top with a circle of waxed paper to prevent the formation of a skin. Allow to cool for a while and seal.
  
PASSION FRUIT CURD
The passion fruit seeds add a surprising crunchy texture to this curd, which for me is a part of the attraction. However, if you prefer a smooth curd, use 1kg of fruit and sieve the pulp before adding to the eggs.
750 g passion fruit
Juice of 1 lemon
350 g sugar
150 g butter, soften
4 extra large fresh eggs, whisked until thickened
Slice the passion fruit into halves and scoop out the seed and pulp. There should be about 500 ml.
Heat the mixture in a small pan, add the lemon, sugar and butter stirring constantly until all dissolved and the mixture has reached boiling point.
Pour into the top part of a double boiler or a bowl placed over a pan of barely simmering water. Add eggs to the mixture and mix well. Simmer gently, stirring continuously until thick enough to coat the back of a spoon. Do not allow to boil or it will curdle. Remove from the heat.
Fill into bottles and cover the top with a circle of waxed paper to prevent the formation of a skin. Allow to cool for a while and seal.
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http://www.odeds-kitchen.co.za/
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I am going to make this tomorrow and take some of it to Canada to my child and his partner. Did you know that sniffing grapefruit (not UP your nose) makes you slim instantly? This recipe sounds quite wonderful as one would expect. More please!