Mosi-oa-Tunya - ‘The smoke that thunders’ - is better known as the Victoria Falls. Still the showpiece of Africa, some five million litres of water power over its craggy basalt chasm every second in the peak season. Stretching 1.7 kilometers in length and plunging 100 metres into the gorge below, the consequent curtain of spray rises higher than the Eiffel Tower with a visibility stretching over 30 kilometers. Unlike the Niagara Falls, which has succumbed to crass commercialism, visitors enjoy a pristine eco-experience little changed since it was discovered by David Livingstone in 1855.
Sited at the exact spot where Zambia meets Zimbabwe, the border line runs across the ancient ‘Meccano’ like bridge linking the two countries. For years the debate has raged about which of the two sides affords the best vantage point for one of the world’s greatest natural icons. Zimbabwe has been handicapped in recent times by the chaos reigning in the hinterland, but ‘The Falls’ is also the Golden Goose providing most of their foreign exchange, and as such has become a perfectly safe trouble-free canton completely divorced from the realities of that benighted country. It also has a more developed tourist infrastructure and the lion’s share of the real estate stretching across the length of Mosi-oa-Tunya. The famed rain forest directly in front of the ‘Falls’ has numerous viewing sites with a proximity to the boiling waters that ensures a drenching and a wonderful intimacy with one of the seven natural wonders of the world.
The perspective on the Zambian side is more oblique but no less spectacular, and visitors are also guaranteed a soaking. There are some wonderful lodges running along the banks of the Zambezi as well as a host of activities similar to those offered on the other side. What is beyond dispute however, is that the best place to really take in this extraordinary vista is from the air. And tapping into this reality are fleets of helicopters on both sides taking tourists who can afford them, on exciting flips over the tumbling waters. But there is a cheaper and much more electrifying option…
At Batoka Sky Adventures in Livingstone, tourists unfazed by the very real prospects of vertigo can sign up for the experience of a lifetime, and take off strapped into a microlite - the aerial equivalent of a motorcycle.
And so it was that I found myself at
the end of a runway, about to fulfill
another of my bucket list ambitions.
My faith in this caper was bolstered by the fact that John Henshall the Aussie pilot was a veteran with a commercial aircraft license, and thousands of flying hours. A surprising burst of speed was followed by an exhilarating leap into the air and we were soon at one with nature as we soared skywards.
En route to the Falls, there were some surprises. At ground level it is difficult to appreciate just how expansive the river really is, and some of the territories assumed to be opposite banks turned out to be massive islands. Microlite flying combines familiarity with the elements and a leisurely pace - providing those with a head for heights with a most extraordinary celebration of the senses. And all of this climaxed as we flew over the surging Zambezi crashing recklessly over the yawning chasm. From our lofty perch we had an eagle’s eye view of the drama below, and a glimpse of this adventurous river’s onward journey as it headed through spectacular gorges towards Lake Kariba, Cabora Bassa and ultimately the sea.
Puttering back towards the Batoka airfield we saw a herd of elephants, a large pod of hippos and, just before landing, a huge croc sunbathing on the banks. With great panache Henshall then brought the plane down on the gravel runway – bringing to an end one of the most exciting 15 minutes of my life.
BATOKA SKY ADVENTURE
Tel: +260 21 3320058 /+260 21 3323589
bookingdesk@livingstone.microlink.zm
www.livingstonesadventure.com
Roy Watts was infected with the travel bug at birth. He managed to hold this affliction at bay for much of his life by forcing his square body into the round hole of conformity. In 2003, after recovering from Guillain Barre, a paralysing neurological disease, he tossed his briefcase away and adopted a ‘Have Pen Will travel’ credo. This to more fully enjoy his mid life crisis!
See more Roy Watts on Showcook.com
Photography by Roy Watts
© Roy Watts
Loading ...
