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Malawi - Roy Watts
Article posted on 10 April, 2009

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MARVELOUS MALAWI

By Roy Watts

Stepping into the grace of
a bygone age in
‘The Warm Heart of Africa’

Customs and Immigration in Africa can be an intimidating affair, so I was taken aback by the smiling visages and friendly attitude of the officials welcoming us into Malawi on our arrival at the Lilongwe Airport. As it happened, they turned out to be the shop front for a nation that takes pride in its reputation as ‘The Warm Heart of Africa’. This augured well for a group visit exploring some of the many touring facets of this fascinating country.

To visit Malawi, is to revisit the grace of a bygone age. Much of its charm stems from its lack of sophistication, and the fact that it is untainted by the mad rush of progress. Away from Lilongwe and Blantyre - the two major cities - life goes on much as it has for centuries. Most of its citizens live under the yolk of poverty, but nowhere are survival hardships reflected by the demeanor of its sunny, friendly people.

Situated in the Great Rift Valley that stretches from Egypt to Botswana, it is a long thin landlocked country featuring an enormous fresh water lake that is the life blood to many subsistence farmers and fishermen. But its real potential lies in tourism with dimensions extending 600 kilometers north to south, and a breadth of some 80 kilometers in parts.

Along its pristine shoreline and on a number of islands there is a collection of spectacular lodges that offer wonderful atmosphere with facilities standing in stark contrast to the unsophisticated nature of the surrounding country. This imbalance could lead to an economic leg up as well as provide great employment opportunities if Malawi’s great tourism potential is fully realised.

Wilderness Safaris, the world renowned experts on Sub Saharan Africa, have assembled a wide ranging portfolio of exclusive lodges that encapsulate the very best aspects of this fast developing travel enigma. www.wilderness-safaris.com

Much sought after by collectors of tropical fish, Lake Malawi is the largest aquarium in the world. Potentially, it could become the ‘Playground of Africa’ with its luxury resorts, romantic island hideaways and the Ilala - a fifty four year old eccentric steamer with all the elan of yesteryear traversing its crystalline waters. Be sure to get a berth on the exclusive upper deck or you might be competing with chickens and goats for elbow room. And be advised that this trusty old steamer uses its schedule as a rough guide, and the cruise should be regarded as an authentic "African" Adventure. It also helps if one is accustomed to ‘third world travel’.

There’s something about rickety
wooden bridges leading
to places of enchantment.

And the one at Mumbo Island took us to an overwhelmingly beautiful eco-paradise blending timber, canvas, thatch and wooden decks with massive boulders and indigenous island vegetation.

The result is a rustic hideaway that exceeds the most unrealistic romantic expectations, and an atmosphere enhanced by oil-fired lanterns at night. Our group had arrived there after a 40 minute launch ride from the grass and thatch ‘Robinson Crusoe’ headquarters of Kayak Africa on Cape Maclear.

Like many of the lodges dotted in and around Lake Malawi, Mumbo offers a full range of aquatic activities. This inland fresh water sea is home to more species of fish than any other lake in the world, and is famous for the small ‘perch-like cichlids of which 500 varieties are not found anywhere else. They come in an enormous range of colours shapes and sizes, and diving here is akin to being underwater in a giant tropical aquarium.

So snorkeling and scuba diving instructors and equipment are available to introduce guests to a kaleidoscope of piscatorial splendour. There are also a number of kayaks available and one can choose between paddling on cobalt waters in the golden haze of an African sunset, diving amongst neon-coloured fish, or just lazing in a hammock gazing out at the impossibly blue vista.

Mumbo has an attractive sister - Domwe Island not far from Cape Maclear. It has a similar charm, and being self catering, is considerably cheaper. Accommodation consists of three well appointed tented chalets, and two sites with decks on which guests can pitch their own tents. There’s a fully equipped kitchen and a staff of two who remove much of the drudge behind preparing meals. Snorkeling equipment and sea kayaks are available for hire. www.kayakafrica.net

Next up on our dance cards was Danforth Lodge on the mainland, a short distance from Kayak Africa. This has a very different appeal to the rustic charm of Mumbo, and is set on a magnificent lawn on the edge of the lake.

The hallmarks of this hostelry are meticulous attention to detail, a marvellous open sided dining room and superb cuisine. In addition to kayaking, snorkeling and scuba, they offer water skiing and dinghy sailing.

Danforth Lodge "Mufasa"

The main attraction however is “Mufasa”, a magnificent 38 foot catamaran moored thirty meters from the beach.

It is a luxury 10 berth vessel and is the only craft licensed to offer charters from which to explore the harbours, shoreline and exotic islands of this exciting waterway.

It is a really good venue for a small group celebration, and would also be an excellent way of getting to Cape Maclear from the Lilongwe Airport, the alternatives being a light plane flip or a rather bumpy 5 hour drive. www.danforthyachting.com

In the medium range is the Gecko lounge, a festive hostelry with a couple of well appointed self catering chalets and a dormitory.

The main attraction here is an atmospheric pub and a large entertainment deck. There’s a wide screen TV available for those suffering from DSTV withdrawal, as well as a host of the latest movie DVDs along with portable players. It is also the home of some excellent cuisine at very reasonable prices. www.geckolounge.net

I discovered a really enchanting resort - Chembe Eagle’s Nest.

One afternoon I hired a bicycle with the intention of following the sandy road to its conclusion, riding through villages and past many interesting hostelries and restaurants. Just before the track ran into a mountain, I discovered a really enchanting resort - Chembe Eagle’s Nest.

This is a collection of attractive chalets in a tranquil setting quite remote from mainstream Cape Maclear. Operating from a pristine beach one can choose between snorkeling, skiing, sailing, wake boarding or just watching the odd fish eagle. Their tariff includes full board. www.chembenest.com

Lake Malawi pours into Lake Malombe in the south before leaking into the Shire River. Strategically placed in a creek at its widest point is the stunning Mvuu Wilderness Lodge. Getting there from Cape Maclear has always been an arduous and hazardous road hassle, a fact recognised by Howard Massey Hicks who runs Danforth Lodge and ‘Mufasa’.

He has introduced a luxury shuttle from his lodge using a converted launch complete with sleeping accommodation, cooking facilities and an onboard skipper to smooth the way as they cruise across the lake and down the Shire River en route to one of Malawi’s favourite destinations. So the fun begins on leaving Danforth Lodge, enhanced by an ongoing parade of animals along the banks of the river until arrival at Mvuu. With an on-board gas braai, and food provided by the lodge, the trip will be a floating celebration instead of the bumpy tortuous alternative by car.

Mounted on a ridge overlooking the small lagoon, are five luxurious tented chalets that blend with lush tropical vegetation. From their viewing decks one can watch an ongoing procession of game, and have an up front and personal relationship with a hyperactive band of monkeys all suffering from advanced kleptomania.

Meals are often al fresco affairs in a boma just below the attractive open sided lounge and dining room. One evening we were given a serious shock when an elephant strolled down a path leading from the chalets. Richard, the camp manager ordered us to sit stock still. Good advice as it happened - it trumpeted a loud harrumph of disapproval and decided not to join us as it stomped off into the bush.

Mvuu offers a wide range of
nature walks and game drives,
but the main attraction is the
launch cruise up the Shire River.

In its waters hippos loiter without intent, whilst enormous crocodiles lurk with malice aforethought.

Patrolling the banks lofty elephants
survey their domain, and occasionally
take to the river where they have
more fun than kids in a water park.

In the air an enormous variety of birds put on a wondrous aerial display and occasionally you might see a fish eagle swoop on an unsuspecting fish from an overhead branch. There is simply no way you can get a better game viewing opportunities than from a launch, and at times we were no further than a few feet from some of the six hundred elephants that populate this area.

http://www.wilderness-safaris.com/malawi_liwonde/mvuu_camp/introduction/

The last stop on our Malawi hop-around was to the Kaya Mawa Lodge on its most remote outpost - Likoma Island. This has to be the most unique destination in the world, and is a collection of rough hewn rock chalets, many of which are built onto tiny atolls connected by rickety wooden bridges.

As with Mumbo, these lead to accommodations of great enchantment, with pride of place going to honeymoon island.

This spectacular piece of seductive isolation is tucked away among luxuriant trees and massive boulders on a rocky outcrop. It has its own private gazebo and a hidden teak ladder access to the cerulean waters of Lake Malawi.

Kaya Mawa was rated by ‘Conde Nast
Traveller’ as one of the world’s most romantic
places, and I can’t find fault with that.

The main camp has a lovely beach with all the usual nautical toys, and an instructor on hand to teach the use thereof. Paddle off in a kayak, sail in a dinghy, or learn to scuba dive on a special introductory course.

There are also plenty of mountain bikes with which to explore this enigmatic island that has little changed since 1906 when the imposing St Peter’s Cathedral was built. You can get there by air, or catch a ride on the trusty old Ilala steamship that has been plying these waters for the past fifty years. www.kayamawa.com

As the rand sinks slowly in the west, holidays abroad have become survival exercises, where you’ll have to cope with tourist hordes and rude taxi drivers whilst your budget fights a losing battle in shops, hotels and restaurants.

Warm, friendly Malawi is a hop step and
2 hour SAA jump from Johannesburg, and
is an affordable alternative with a
truly remarkable selection of holidays.

Roy Watts is a late-life newcomer to the exciting, but tenuous world of freelance journalism. He started as a moonlighting adventure writer some 20 years ago, when he wrote travel articles and tailpieces for Cosmopolitan and Fairlady, during time filched from his day job as a successful commercial property broker. A serious brush with Guillan Barre Syndrome, a deadly neurological disease that paralyses its victims, knocked him off this hamster wheel in 1999. Now fit and well after a lengthy recovery cycle, he ditched his briefcase and adopted a "Have pen - will travel’ credo.

A walk through the Okavango with friends!