Having encountered the wondrous tea shop, we came across a fascinating teapot shop, La Maison de Thérèse, 17 Rue de la Odeon. About 95 different teapots, cups and sugar bowls in the window, all sizes and amazing shapes; cats, dogs and elephants! Some exquisite table ware, but totally dominated by the astonishing variety of teapots, reminiscent of Alice in Wonderland.
Time out for dejeuner! Something light. Many restaurants are air conditioned, but generally the implication then, is to have a larger meal. We strolled along the boulevard Saint-Germain and passed the wonderful Deux Magots. The people eating at the pavement tables looked distinctly wilted. One or two steps further down, and we encountered the equally famous Café de Flore. Like Les Deux Magots, it was a meeting place of literary giants such as Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir and so many others. After the war, Picasso came to Flore every night and sat at the same table, the second table in front of the main door.
The pavement tables were equally unwelcoming on that hot day, so we entered to find it just as stifling. A charming waiter suggested that we try the room upstairs, and they would switch on the air conditioning for us - what a find! The air conditioning was switched on, the windows closed, and the whole room became a comfortable haven.
Other people trickled up the stairs, and soon the place was buzzing and we did not feel that we were on a lonely desert island. Enjoy Salade Flore with a glass of chilled Chablis. The salad ; eggs, ripe tomatoes, fine slices of emmental cheese, crisp cos and butter lettuce and piquant olives, perfect with a delicate vinaigrette dressing made only the way the French can and of naturally a crisp fresh baguette. How wonderful it is to eat in Paris! The interior is Art Deco, brimming with a feeling of the richly colourful past and of the luminaries that ate and drank there.
It is always fun sitting at a pavement café. A cup of cafe au lait or a heady espresso, and one can just gaze at the passing pavement fashion. Everybody smokes in Paris, in spite of the signs offering dire warnings prohibiting it. I think the French would rather go to jail than give up their Gauloises. Cell phones everywhere, and everybody talking and gesticulating, and of course dogs, every Frenchman loves dogs, and dogs go everywhere. One major discovery is that the pavements are clean. So flanerie is safer.
A wonderful exhibition at the Georges Pompidou Centre of Bauhaus furniture and artists of the time. The Centre has been cleaned and refurbished and just glows. Nothing secret about this, but good to know it is a reasonable walk to the Rue De Rivoli, and then another few blocks to that wonderful tea shop Angelina, where they make an excellent hot chocolate. Classic French décor, choice patisserie and great entertainment watching people watching everyone else.
Another find; Denise Francelle, quaint and special on the Rue de Rivoli., open since 1938, the owner has retired just recently! It is a tiny gem, wooden drawers overflowing with gloves, magical silk scarves, exquisitely embroidered linen handkerchiefs and the most delicate underwear, even garters, but so very discreet. It seems that they have customers all over the world and were quite prepared to post anything I wished to South Africa. The gloves especially caught my attention with a large collection of cotton gloves of all sizes, lengths and colours. So difficult to find.
Decisions, decisions - where to eat at night! What an astounding choice there is. L’appart on the right bank at 9&11 rue du Colisée, just off the Champs Elysées is a favoured choice. The name is short for apartment and the décor follows that theme. The refreshing gazpacho that they make in summer is a treat. The rather amazing thing about this restaurant is that it appears to be run solely by really attractive girls, the only man we spotted was the barman. It was suggested that we sit in the library a room with floor to ceiling books and in the summer it is beautifully cool. Gambas, prawns in a superb sauce were a main course. The dessert crepes are a talking point. About 6 plain unfolded crepes are served, tiny, surrounded by fillings to choose from; two styles of confiture, creamy white cheeses and fresh cream. Such fun and a great idea. It is essential to make reservations (Telephone 01 53 75 16 34) and incidentally it is open for lunch.
We have a delightful place where we spend time on a Sunday, the vast and beautiful Luxembourg Gardens. There is a bandstand placed under the trees surrounded by hundreds of metal folding chairs, randomly placed. We try to get there soon after lunch to secure a couple of seats in the shade. At about noon, bands, including those visiting from America, take the stand, and entertain through the whole summery afternoon. It is all free, and there is a little café nearby in the gardens, where ice cream, snacks and drinks are sold. This is within walking distance of our hotel, and a lovely way to spend a relaxing Sunday afternoon.
In Paris on a Sunday, finding restaurants open, is always problematical. We have one or two however we go to regularly. One is that great big Art Deco theatre of dining, La Coupole, and another we found on our wanderings, Crêmerie Restaurant Polidor. This bustling restaurant dates back to early 20th century. Art Deco in appearance, the walls are decoratively mirrored and gloriously etched with flowers and silver rings. Many diplomas are in evidence and wines are written on the mirrors. It is jammed with tables, and bookings are not taken. The result is quite convivial and you find that you share tables. The service is swift and efficient, and dinner is not a lengthy affair.
Champignons à la Grécque and tomates mozzarella were a good beginning. Chicken in tarragon, the main course was over in an hour. We did not feel rushed however, and there was plenty of time to stroll to Deux Magots and enjoy a coffee. A lovely way to end a lazy Sunday.
At 41 rue Cherche-Midi, on the Left Bank in the 6th Arrondisement, we came across a charming boutique, Celimene Pompon, jammed with treasures; beautiful tapestries, embroidery and gifts. It really is remarkable how many small and interesting places one encounters when one is strolling and casually browsing.
Wandering around the Marais District, we came across a renowned olive oil shop, Oliviers & Co. at 47, Rue Vieille du Temple. In the store were huge casks some wrapped in sacking, presumably the better quality oils. Apart from a wide variety of oils, there were displays of tapenade and wheat biscuits - delicious! Slotted spoons were available to remove olives from pottery pots. All kinds of olives, large and small, some flavoured, and of course all plump and tempting. There were potted olive plants on sale, and every style of soap and toiletries made from olive oil were available.
We have found wonderful restaurants in the little side streets, among them welcoming La Table D’aude, recommended by food writer, Patricia Wells. It is a tiny restaurant at 8, rue de Vaugirard and serves regional dishes from the Aude area of France. The owner chef is totally passionate about his cuisine. Their fish soup is among the best in Paris. How he manages to create the taste and appearance of a Bouillabaisse from the South of France is a mystery?
The duck is superb! My husband, Eugene, dared to suggest white wine with the duck, the owner shuddered with horror and suggested that he eat something else or come back another day! Red wine won the day! He makes the most amazing beans in garlic as a starter, but for this dish one needs a strong French stomach.
In the immediate vicinity, there are other favourite restaurants. They are Chez Maître Paul at 12 rue Monsieur-le-Prince with cuisine and wine from the Jura district of France; and La Bastide D’Odeon at 7 rue Corneille. This is a modern bistro where you can enjoy simple but delightful meals.
We stumbled upon a corner café, Le Nemrod at 51 Rue de Cherche-Midi. It is a meeting spot for the neighbourhood, where food, service and wine are all good. There is more attention lavished on customers than the usual lunch café. The salads are copious and inventive, and reasonably priced.
There are a great many museums to visit, and whilst visiting the Musée D’orsay is no secret, my pleasure is to find something precious and special. They have a way of moving things around, so it is a feeling of achievement when one encounters a familiar favourite. Visit The Jeu de Paume and drink in the amazing Matisse water lilies.
Successive visits to Paris yields new charms. Flanerie remains a fascinating way to discover these secrets. As you stroll, wander and idle along the boulevards, meander through the winding streets, this enthralling city reveals a plethora of treasures.
SOUPE A L’OIGNON - Onion Soup
4 large onions, finely sliced
2 tbsp bacon fat
1 litre homemade chicken stock
2-3 tbsp sherry
4 slices French Bread, toasted
½ cup gruyère cheese, grated
(Serves 2-4)
Brown onions in bacon fat, over low heat until transparent. Add stock and sherry. Cover and simmer for 20 minutes. Place toast slices in deep casserole. Spread cheese over the toast. Pour over soup gradually and place in 180ºC oven for 15 minutes.
MOULES MARINIÈRE - Mussels in White Wine
1 litre fresh mussels
½ cup chopped spring onions
1/4 cup chopped celery
2 tbsp butter
1 cup dry white wine
salt and freshly ground pepper
½ tsp lemon juice
2 tbsp butter
1 tbsp chopped parsley or chives
(Serves 2-4)
Wash and scrub mussels well in several waters. Sauté spring onions and celery in butter until tender. Add mussels and wine and boil until shells open. Remove mussels and keep warm. Reduce sauce by one half and add lemon juice, butter bit by bit and seasoning with parsley or chives. Pour sauce over mussels and serve in a piping hot deep bowl.
CANETON À L’ORANGE - Duck with Orange Sauce
2 ducks, quartered
4 tbsp butter
4 tbsp vegetable oil
1 tsp Worcestershire sauce
4 drops Tabasco
2 cups sweet white wine
sea salt and milled black pepper
3 tbsp Grand Marnier or other orange liqueur
2 oranges, peeled and segmented
(Serves 2- 4)
Brown duck quarters in hot butter and vegetable oil. Add Worcestershire, Tabasco, wine, salt and pepper. Simmer covered until ducks are tender and sauce has reduced to about 1/2. Stir Grand Marnier into gravy. Remove ducks to warm place and sauté orange slices until warm. Remove orange segments, pour over ducks and garnish with orange segments.
© Leslie Back
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Hi I just recently bought 3 vintage scarves online for $4 I looked at the tag and saw the name “Denise Francelle Paris 244. Rue de Rivoli”…I typed the name online but got few leads…I see it’s no longer in business…I want to know more of the history…not to resell I gave them to my mother :) where can I start?!! thank you, Yesenia