The ‘Raggies’ of Rocktail
Nestling in a dune forest in a remote
corner of South Africa, the Rocktail Beach
Camp is custodian to one of the premier
dive sites of the world. Roy watts went to
take a look - and to drop in on Ragged
Tooth Shark pre-natal classes.
Tucked away just below Mozambique is the Maputaland Marine Reserve, the main element in a spectacular biosphere. In its pristine waters Manta Rays, Whale Sharks, White - tipped Reef sharks, Moray eels and the ubiquitous ‘Raggie’ head up the cast of a staggering 1250 species of fish who thrive amongst the southernmost coral reefs in the warm waters of the Agulhas Current. A broad coastline of golden beaches is sandwiched between the Indian Ocean and a sandy ridge holding back a wide expanse of a topographically unique dune forest. The ecological integrity of the area is maintained by great distances from major cities, difficult deep sand roads, and vigilant control by the KZN Wildlife Authority.
The focal point for eco-touring is the Rocktail Bay Lodge which is well known for its involvement in the extraordinary Leatherback and Loggerhead Turtle reproductive cycle which has these amazing reptiles returning to the Maputaland beaches to nest each year. Wilderness Safaris who run this establishment recognised that this coastline also offers some of the best diving in South Africa, and they consequently developed a tented ‘Beach Camp’ linked to a very well equipped scuba centre. And it is here that divers from around the world come to explore the wonders of a World Heritage site with its unspoilt reefs and reputation as one of the top underwater spots on the planet.
Having been a keen diver for many years, I have always known about Rocktail’s awesome reputation amongst the world’s scubarati. But the reason I found myself skimming along to a precise GPS position in the powerful Dive Centre boat, was another of those unexplained oceanic mysteries – the annual convergence of pregnant Ragged Tooth sharks in the shallows near Island Rock every summer. Here they swim around aimlessly with a calm, almost bored demeanour, as they wait for the arrival of their pups. Eating is not a big priority at this time, a fact confirmed by a brown film of grunge that accumulates on their teeth.
Several years ago I had my first introduction to this phenomenon when I embarked on a similar exercise and encountered five of these magnificent creatures. They have remained icons of fear and fascination ever since. My father had a half brother - Jack Van Breda, whose severed body was hauled out of the ocean in Indonesia after a shark attack, long before I was born. So when the mothers of all the kids on the block were nagging them to wear their vests, mine was going on about sharks. It was this piece of family history that played heavily on my mind as I contemplated plunging into the middle of a Ragged Tooth pre-natal class. My confidence in this caper was bolstered by the fact that they have the reputation for being benign animals, and I also had great faith in the dive master - Darryl Smith - who has conducted hundreds of these forays without mishap.
Five, four, three, two, one SPLASH, we back flipped into a cobalt void and descended to a modest 15 metres, where we ran into an undersea Mardi Gras. Tropical Fish of every shape size and colour drifted by, against a psychedelic backdrop of coral formations. Frilly Lionfish dressed like flappers from the roaring twenties, hovered around - confident that their deadly spines would ward off enemies, whilst the odd Moray eel peeped out from protective gaps in the coral.
Finning along just above the surface we passed many of the Maputaland Reef system’s impressive population of tropical fish before Darryl called a halt at a rocky ridge.
And there, drifting serenely in a random fashion
were at least a dozen large Ragged Tooth sharks, all
with irregular grins badly in need of a dental hygienist.
Flattening ourselves onto the Indian Ocean seabed, I was amazed at their indifference, and how close they came in their purposeless meandering. Lying in a huddle we lay transfixed as they swam by, with one of them gliding past a metre above my head, giving me a crab’s eye view of those terrible teeth.
In awe we watched a parade of aerodynamically perfect shapes with millions of years of evolution and survival encoded in their genes. We might just as well have been at the bottom of a Koi Fish pond, and this extraordinary experience brought home how misunderstood these beautiful creatures really are. Finally I was able to lay the ghost of Uncle Jack to rest.
Scuba diving is always going to be the principle reason for visiting the Rocktail Beach Camp but there are also other stimulating activities on offer. Chief of these is nearby iGugulesizwe, a specially constructed Zulu Village built on a commanding hill. This was developed by Wilderness Safaris in partnership with the local tribesmen with a view to showcasing Zulu lifestyle and culture. Centrepiece is a large wooden deck designed for hosting a wide range of functions, and sited to emphasise the spectacular view which becomes an awesome backdrop for any occasion.
On standby there is a fully choreographed team of Zulu dancers available to add atmosphere, and an adjoining thatched bar to encourage conviviality. So this would be a great venue for a wedding – especially since there is a cluster of authentic huts available for a couple of hundred rand a night for those wanting to experience an authentic Zulu experience. Sleeping would be on floor mattresses, with ablutions carried out in a rustic central block.
Finally there are the turtles for which Rocktail Bay is famous. In the season, torchlight walks along the beach are organised to seek out the Leatherbacks and Loggerheads as they return to nest and lay their eggs - or later to watch the hatchlings as they scramble towards the ocean. It is also possible to link up with the night drives organised by the sister lodge further down the way.
All in all, the Beach Camp is a charming
destination offering a fascinating range
of activities in a truly unique wilderness.
Special thanks to Dr Karen Deller, Phil Kufal and Wilderness Safaris
Rocktail Beach Camp & Dive
www.wilderness-safaris.com
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