When
South African born Nadia Bilchik, after living in Atlanta for eight years
where she is a well-known television news anchor and keynote speaker,
planned a trip to South Africa with family, friends and Julia, her 11 yr
old daughter, she decided that the ultimate safari was a must.
Julia,
although had been back to South Africa many times to
visit, had never seen the magnificent wildlife that her classmates
associated her country of birth with.
Dramatic
and romantic Ngala was the final choice, the consummate African experience.
Owned by Conservation Corporation Africa (CC
Africa), which now owns 38 superb lodges and camps in six African
countries, Ngala is a private game reserve, the first to be included in the
largest wildlife sanctuary in South Africa in the two million hectare Kruger National Park.
'Ngala,
with spectacular scenery,' says Nadia, 'proved to be an aromatic blend
of tantalising experiences and tastes of the wild African bush. Imagine
alfresco evenings beneath canopies of stars, such an exciting, vital
experience.
Opt
to fly to the nearby Hoedspruit Airport, where you are collected rather
than drive, which is a long eight hours from Johannesburg.
Once we had settled
in to our gorgeous tented safari camp, I headed straight for the spa-size bath,
the huge chunks of rose bath crystals were so enticing that I had hot
baths at every opportunity, surrounded by candles and crystals. The stress
and fatigue of life in the city were vanquished and the serenity of the
lodge was balm for the soul.
Ngala,
meaning lion in Shangaan, has a dazzling and prolific array of
wildlife and ideal for those that prefer an exhilarating walking
safari.
The
food at Ngala and at all CC Africa lodges is Pan African Cuisine a style
and presentation that reminded me of a woven tapestry; colours, textures
and tastes served in dishes that were carved, crafted and studded often
with leaves to wrap and steam - such a change.
Dinner
was served in the 'boma' around hundreds of candles and burning fires with
vibrant, enthusiastic waiters serving piping hot bowls of pumpkin or
courgette
soup, and a signature dish; their baked goat's cheese in vine leaves, with
roasted tomatoes, olives and caper berries. Choose between chicken sautéed in peanut sauce
or tender lamb
and baby potatoes. Dessert, grilled sweet juicy pineapple with fronds of coconut and
a bitter chocolate mousse.
On our first morning we were woken up at
5.30am not
by the loud ringing of an alarm clock or an automated wake up call, but by
the gentle knock of our game ranger, Michelle. She introduced herself to us over hot coffee and
fresh oatmeal and sunflower crunchies. Michelle explained that at Ngala, each
group has their own ranger for the duration of their stay.
Each game ranger has one thing in common, their love
of the bush and their acute desire to impart their passion and wisdom to
eager learners. And an eager group we
certainly were. My brother, Anton and I had been
on Safari before, but for most of our group this was a
first and everyone hung on to every bit of bush lore Michelle
imparted.
Accompanying
us along with Michelle was a large
muscular tracker, Elvis, who has been tracking game his entire life. He led us on our very first morning drive to a
pride of lions resting after a kill and true to the name Ngala we saw lion several times during our four day stay.
Each game drive; early morning and late afternoon was
an adventure. We saw cheetah sprawled under a tree and, with the
assistance of Michelle’s expert manoeuvering of the large vehicle, we got
so close we could see their teeth!
At around 10am one morning, after
returning from
our early morning drive, we were greeted by an absorbing sight. Clustered
around the lodge’s swimming pool, merrily slurping the chlorinated water
were 20 elephants. The babies in front, and mommas, poppas and aunties
close by. The merry fellows refreshed themselves and were so near that
if Michelle had not had her rifle at hand, it may have been terrifying. These
huge breeding
herds of elephants are a feature.
On to
breakfasts, which were lavish feasts of fresh fruit, meusli and yoghurts,
and eggs to order, but one morning halfway through our game drive we were told to
'close our eyes' and when we opened them, an entire breakfast buffet, complete with an omelet station and freshly baked muffins and hot coffee
had been set
up in the middle of a clearing in the bush. A perfect bush
breakfast.
From
cosy blankets and hot water bottles ready for you
in the chilly early mornings to elegant afternoon teas, Ngala exceeded
our expectations.
Each game drive brought a new thrill. Baby hyenas
peeping tentatively at first and then boldly springing out of their
hideout. Zebra, rhino and impala enjoying their daily activities and
elegant giraffe loping through the Bushveld.
There is something
riveting and awe inspiring about seeing game in
their natural habitat, standing silently and motionless - the perfect
models, as we took endless photographs of
each encounter.
Lunch each day was served on a spectacular verandah
overlooking the watering hole and lush lawn and, if you could manage to
muster your appetite after a late breakfast, we enjoyed fresh colourful salads,
a variety of good cheeses, peaches with granola or a freshly baked fruit soufflés
with whipped cream.
Halfway through
evening game drives, we would
stop in a dried riverbed just as the burning orange sun was
setting (postcard perfect!). Elvis and Michelle would then lay an
elegant table, complete with white cloth, candles, caramelised nuts and cocktails. Chilled wine and vodka for the adults, hot chocolate and
shortbread biscuits for the children. Later, it was back to the lodge for another
moveable feast.
Some nights it was impala kebabs,
and other nights tender ostrich steaks or spiced lamb shanks. Their
chocolate pan soufflé with accents of orange and mint was a wild
ending.'
