DOWN TO EARTH

With Barbara Flax

It is those countries that celebrate vegetables that fired guest cook, Barbara Flax's imagination with their accessible down to earth dishes. Countries such as Italy, Thailand and Morocco have influenced her taste with their special style and instinctive flair for flavouring. Homely kitchens that both inspire and satisfy.

Barbara, with an eclectic touch, combines textures and tastes such as penne with anchovies, olives and a caper sauce or creates a crunchy stir-fry with cashews and bean sprouts. Try her 'Spinach & Celery Risotto with sharp lemon peel and Walnuts' while from Thailand; she has plucked 'Lentil & Pumpkin Curry'.

Enjoy ten down to earth dishes in 'On the Table' with Barbara Flax, who shows a fine hand with pasta, pulses, grains and vegetables. 

FUSILLI WITH ROASTED PEPPER & EGGPLANT SAUCE

1 large eggplant
sea salt, to taste 
2 large red peppers 
45 ml olive oil
1 large clove garlic, crushed
freshly milled black pepper to taste
45 ml fresh basil leaves, roughly chopped
45 ml extra virgin olive oil
400 g good quality fusilli
freshly grated parmesan cheese for serving
(Serves 4-6)

Sauce: Cut eggplant into cubes and layer in a colander. Sprinkle with salt and leave to drain for 30 minutes. Trim and de-seed peppers and place on a rack in a preheated 200ºC oven. Cook for 15–20 minutes until skins are charred. Remove carefully (the peppers will be very hot) and place in a plastic bag to cool. Peel off blackened skin and cut peppers into cubes, reserving the liquid. 

Dry eggplant with paper towel. Heat olive oil in a non-stick pan and when oil is very hot add cubes of eggplant. Cook for 6 minutes, turning with a non-stick spatula or wooden spoon, but allowing them to blacken slightly. Turn heat down and cover pan. Cook for 10 minutes over a gentle heat, turning once or twice until they are well-cooked and tender. Remove lid, push eggplant to one side and add crushed garlic. Allow to colour slightly and then mix into the eggplant, which should be really softened. Add peppers and any accumulated juices, lots of black pepper and salt. Stir in chopped basil and additional olive oil.

Fusilli: Cook pasta in plenty of salted boiling water until al dente. Drain and place in a heated serving dish. Pour over eggplant sauce and serve with grated parmesan cheese.

Note: This seemingly simple marriage of ingredients produces the most heavenly tasting summer dish. It can be prepared up to the point before which the peppers are added and will hold well until it’s ready to be finally served.

STIR-FRY WITH BEAN SPROUTS & CASHEWS

2 tbsp peanut oil or sunflower oil
2 tsp garlic, ginger and dhania paste
1 tsp chilli paste
200 g baby leeks, well-washed, halved and cut lengthwise into 3cm shreds
1 packet Pak Choy (Chinese Chard) washed and roughly chopped
200 g oyster mushrooms, rinsed carefully
150 g bean sprouts, rinsed and drained
2 corn cobs, cooked and the kernels stripped
100 g cashew nuts, toasted
1 tsp good quality soya sauce
sea salt and black pepper to taste
long-life Chinese spinach noodles
(Serves 2-3) 

Heat peanut oil in a wok and add garlic, ginger and dhania paste. Stir-fry for a few seconds, then add chilli paste. Add leeks and pak choy, stir-fry for a minute and then add oyster mushrooms. Allow to cook gently for a minute or two and then add bean sprouts and corn kernels. Add cashews and soya sauce and season to taste.  Cook spinach noodles according to package instructions and add to the wok. Serve in deep bowls.

Note: Garlic, ginger and dhania paste is available in supermarkets in the fresh vegetable section. Oyster mushrooms have a delicate flavour and a slightly chewy texture. They add interest and substance to a stir-fry dish. 

PENNE WITH ANCHOVY, OLIVE & CAPER SAUCE 
WITH FETA CHEESE

500 g penne
5 tbsp olive oil
1 clove garlic, peeled and finely chopped
1 small red chilli, finely sliced
8 anchovy fillets, rinsed, drained and chopped
500 g Italian tomatoes, chopped
60 ml black olives, pitted and sliced
30 ml capers, rinsed and drained
5 ml fresh oregano, washed and chopped
2 rounds feta cheese, cubed
(Serves 3-4)

Heat oil in a saucepan, add garlic and chilli and cook for 5 minutes. Add drained anchovies and cook stirring until they have softened. Add tomatoes, olives and capers and cook gently, stirring occasionally for 20 minutes. Stir in half oregano and parsley and taste for salt and pepper, bearing in mind that anchovies are salty.

Add cubed feta to the sauce carefully, so it retains as much of its shape as possible. Cook penne in plenty of boiling salted water until al dente. Drain and place in a serving bowl. Spoon over sauce and remaining herbs and serve.

Note: Anchovies can be pre-soaked in milk to remove the saltiness. Rinse and drain before adding to the sauce.

TAGLIOLINI WITH GREEN SPRING VEGETABLES 
& RICOTTA

500 g tagliolini, preferably fresh or otherwise the dried variety
6 small zucchini, washed and sliced finely
250 g green peas, shelled
2 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp butter
1 onion, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, peeled and crushed
125 ml vegetable stock
1 packet rocket, washed and drained
75 ml flatleaf parsley, washed and chopped
a handful of fresh basil leaves, washed and shredded finely
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
300 g ricotta 
100 g freshly grated parmesan
(Serves 4)

Heat the olive oil and the butter in a frying pan and when the butter foam melts add the onion and the garlic and cook until soft. Add the zucchini, cook gently for 2-3 minutes and then add the peas and cook for a further 2-3 minutes. Add the stock and cook until the peas are tender, about 5 minutes. Cook the pasta in boiling, salted water until al dente. Drain and place in a warmed serving bowl. Add the rocket leaves to the vegetables in the pan and allow them to wilt. Add the vegetables to the pasta, top with the crumbled ricotta, the basil and the parsley. Mix gently to combine and serve topped with the grated parmesan.

Note: This is a delicious and fresh tasting sauce that utilises the 'new season’s' vegetables; young, green asparagus spears, baby button mushrooms and miniature corn cobs would also be wonderful in this 'primavera' sauce. 

The basic ingredients for this sauce can be adapted for a risotto just follow standard risotto techniques, using a light stock and some white wine. 

SPINACH & CELERY RISOTTO WITH WALNUTS

1.25 litres vegetable or chicken stock
1 medium onion, finely chopped 
2 tbsp sunflower oil
4 tbsp butter
500 ml diced celery
1 tbsp finely chopped celery leaves
500 g washed spinach, wilted and roughly chopped
salt to taste
375 ml Arborio rice
75 ml finely grated lemon rind
75 ml flatleaf parsley, washed and chopped
75 g walnuts, lightly toasted and chopped
freshly grated parmesan
(Serves 3-4) 

Place stock in a saucepan and bring to a simmer. Sauté onion in oil and butter until golden-brown. Add celery and cook for 3-4 minutes or until soft. Add rice, stirring well to coat. Add 125 ml stock and stir constantly loosening any grains of rice from the sides and bottom of the saucepan. When the liquid has evaporated add another 125 ml stock. Continue to add stock only when the previous amount has evaporated. Stir constantly, adding more liquid until rice is tender (kernel of a single grain is al dente), about 35 minutes. Add wilted spinach and grated lemon rind and season with salt and black pepper. Add parsley and chopped walnuts and serve with grated parmesan.

Note: This basic risotto technique can be adapted for use with other ingredients.  Pecans can be substituted for the walnuts. Nuts should always be lightly toasted before use in a recipe-their fresh taste is restored.

If you run out of stock and the rice grains are not quite tender, add boiling water until they are fully cooked. 

Italian risotto rice is the only type to use for authentic risottos. There are other varieties such as Vialone and Carnaroli but they are difficult to obtain and Arborio is available at most supermarkets.

RICE WITH VERMICELLI & CHICK PEAS

100 g  vermicelli, broken into short pieces
3 tbsp sunflower oil
500 g long grain rice
1.2 litres water
10 ml salt 
200 g chick peas, cooked until fairly soft but not mushy
75 ml coriander leaves, washed and chopped, optional
(Serves 4)

Spread vermicelli pieces in an oven tray and toast under a grill for about 5-8 minutes or until golden. Watch very carefully as they burn quickly. Heat oil in a saucepan and add rice, stirring until they are well coated. Add water and vermicelli and stir well. Add salt and cook, covered on a low heat until rice is tender, about 20 minutes. Add cooked chickpeas and chopped coriander and serve.

Note: This is a delicious and very easy to prepare side dish. It works very well with any Mediterranean or Middle-Eastern main course; based on spicy vegetables or meat.

Chickpeas are extremely nourishing  and quite cheap. Wash the uncooked chickpeas well to remove any grit and soak them for a few hours in water that you have brought to the boil. They will then need to be cooked in fresh water for another hour or two until they are tender to the bite.

STIR-FRY OF ORIENTAL GREENS WITH TOFU

2 large cloves of garlic, peeled and finely chopped
5 cm piece of fresh ginger, finely chopped
2 - 3 tablespoons peanut oil or sunflower oil
300 g broccoli, separated into florets, briefly blanched in boiling water
200 g mange–tout peas, briefly blanched in boiling water
350 g packet of bok-choy, washed carefully to remove any grains of sand, 
chopped coarsely and briefly blanched
2 tablespoons dark soy sauce
vegetable stock dissolved in hot water
1 tablespoon brown sugar
(Serves 4)

Heat oil in a wok, add garlic and ginger and allow to colour very slightly. Add broccoli florets, stir-fry gently for a minute, add mange-tout and then bok choy. Stir-fry together for another minute or two and then add stock and soy sauce mixture. Allow sauce to come to the boil for a few seconds to thicken and then turn heat down. Add tofu and lightly mix into vegetables. Season to taste and just before serving add a few drops of sesame oil. Serve as soon as possible over Chinese cellophane noodles or fine pasta.

Note: Peanut oil is an excellent oil to use in stir-fries, it is very light and mild tasting.

Sesame oil is very concentrated, so use only a few drops to add depth of flavour. Chinese noodles are available in most supermarkets, experiment with a variety. Tofu can be added to the stir-fry straight from the container or it can be briefly marinated in a little soya sauce and sherry and lightly stir fried in the wok before the vegetables are added. Remove the lightly browned cubes and set aside.

LENTIL BOLOGNESE SAUCE

2 medium onions, finely chopped
2-3 carrots, washed and chopped
2 sticks table celery with leaves, washed and finely chopped
2 tbsp olive oil
2 cups brown lentils, rinsed to remove any grit and drained
200 ml white wine 
200 ml vegetable stock
70 g tomato paste
freshly grated nutmeg, fresh oregano, salt and freshly ground black pepper
(Serves 4-6)

Heat oil in a saucepan and sauté chopped vegetables until lightly browned, about 10 minutes. Add lentils and stir for a few minutes. Add wine and allow to boil for a few seconds until slightly reduced. Add stock, tomato paste and seasonings. Cook for about 45 minutes or until lentils are soft but not mushy. Adjust seasoning if needed and serve with spaghetti or tagliatelle.

Note: If you have cooked more lentils than needed then simply keep them refrigerated to use at a later time.  

Lentils are wonderful served cold; mixed with a little finely chopped onion, fresh parsley and a dressing of lemon juice and good olive oil.

THAI-STYLE LENTIL & PUMPKIN CURRY

2 tbsp sunflower oil
2-3 tbsp red curry sauce
60 ml crunchy peanut butter
2 tbsp brown sugar
1 tbsp Thai fish sauce
400 ml coconut milk
200 g pumpkin, cut into cubes
2-3 medium tomatoes, skinned, seeded and chopped
125 ml uncooked green lentils, washed well and cooked until just tender.
roasted chopped peanuts to garnish
fresh coriander leaves, well washed
(Serves 3-4)

Heat oil in a wide saucepan and add red curry paste. Stir it around for a minute or two and then add peanut butter, brown sugar and fish sauce. When it is well mixed add coconut milk, stirring well. Add cubed pumpkin and cook for about 10 minutes or until tender. Add cooked lentils, toss with roasted peanuts and fresh coriander leaves and serve with jasmine rice.

Note: Red curry paste is available at all  supermarkets. Experiment with the quantity depending on how hot you like your food!

Jasmine rice is a sticky-type rice that is a natural accompaniment to Thai dishes. It is readily available at supermarkets. Green lentils are generally found on the health-food section of supermarkets. They need less cooking time than the smaller brown lentils. 

This is one of the quickest, most delicious and versatile sauces. Any vegetable that cooks fairly rapidly can be substituted green beans and cauliflower would work well.

CHICKPEA & VEGETABLE COUSCOUS

250 g chickpeas, soaked overnight
2 leeks, washed, trimmed and cut into thin slices
4 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped finely
500 g vegetable stock
200 ml seedless raisins (optional)
3 turnips cut into cubes
200 g butternut cut into cubes
200 g carrots sliced
6 courgettes sliced
5 ml turmeric
10 ml cinnamon
3 ml ground ginger
1 ml cayenne pepper
4 large tomatoes peeled seeded and chopped
fresh coriander washed well and chopped 
salt and freshly milled black pepper to taste
500g couscous 
750 ml water 
60 ml butter 
12 ml salt
5 ml ground cinnamon
(Serves 4-6)

Vegetables: Cook soaked chickpeas for 2-3 hours or until tender. Add vegetables and spices and cook until tender but not mushy, 10–15 minutes. Add tomatoes and fresh coriander and season with salt and black pepper. Serve with couscous and harissa. Garnish with soaked raisins if desired. 

Couscous: Spread couscous in a baking dish. Bring water, butter, salt and cinnamon to the boil in a saucepan. Pour over couscous, stirring once. Cover dish with foil and allow to stand for 10 minutes. Break up grains with a fork and serve immediately or keep warm.

Harissa: Mix 65 ml tomato paste, 10 ml crushed dried red chilies and 3 ml cayenne pepper in a small bowl. Whisk in 125 ml olive oil and 65 ml red wine vinegar. Add a chopped small onion or 6 sliced spring onions, 2 cloves crushed garlic, 5 ml cumin and salt and pepper to taste.

Note: Harissa is a very popular and very hot side sauce for couscous dishes, use it sparingly!

Couscous is readily available in supermarkets. This basic recipe can be adjusted to include a variety of vegetables; parsnips, pumpkin, mushrooms and cabbage would all be good additions or substitutions.