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 IN FASHION WITH BEETROOT

By Oded Schwartz

No, it does not cure HIV/Aids or cancer, but since antiquity beetroot was renowned for its curative qualities. Although the ancient Greek and Romans did not know the purple bulbous, swollen root we use today, they used the leaves and the elongated root as a curative, a purgative and to treat fever and other ailments. 

Beetroot is a rich source of carbohydrates, a good source of protein, and has high levels of important vitamins, minerals and micronutrients. It is a good source of dietary fibre, has practically no fat and no cholesterol.

The swollen root we eat today is a 16th century European development, which quickly conquered the world. It is amongst the only vegetables introduced to the Americas that became a favourite amongst the Native American population. Indeed beetroot soon became an essential ingredient in the kitchens of Poland, Russia, Germany and the Scandinavian countries. 

Even the anaemic, traditional British salad is enlivened by slices of boiled pickled beetroot. As beetroot keeps well, together with turnips, parsnips and potatoes it was a part of ‘stock vegetables’ that were eaten throughout winter when fresh vegetables were not available. It also preserves well either in vinegar or, as the Poles and Russians do it in a brine – rasol – which is later used to make borscht.

With its vivid colour, wonderfully earthy flavour and unique texture the beetroot is very versatile. Raw it makes a delicious and healthy salad, cooked it adds colour to many soups and stews as well as making a delicious chutney or even jam.

When buying beetroot select bundles of even size beets, solid and smooth skinned. If the leaves are still attached do not throw them away, instead use the young leaves for salad or to make a delicious risotto (see recipe).

For salads I rarely cook my beetroot and use it raw for its unique earthy flavour. Yet cooking brings out the sweetness of beetroot. Boil the beetroot for up to 1 hour, unpeeled with the about 3 cm of the top and the bottom still attached. This helps the beetroot to maintain colour as it easily dissolves into the boiling water. Sadly some of the minerals are also lost in boiling.

A better idea, rather steam, bake or, the nicest roast beetroot in hot ashes or on the braai. This may take a bit longer – foil wrapped beetroot can take up to 2 hours in a hot oven. The dry roasting process intensifies the colour and flavour, makes it sweeter and gives it a heavenly smoky aroma.

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RAW BEETROOT AND APPLE SALAD

The following is my version of an Eastern European Jewish classic. The best apples to use are any sweet/sour variety like Cox’s or Granny Smith. Use the apples unpeeled as the peel adds contrasting colour to this delicious salad.

For the dressing:
25 ml/1fl oz/2 tbsp red wine vinegar
1 tbsp English mustard either ready made or in powder
1 tsp of honey or sugar
sea salt
pepper
75 ml/3fl oz/1/3 cup peanut or salad oil 
500 g beetroot, raw or cooked, coarsely grated
2 medium apples, cored and sliced into thin slices
1 red onion, finely chopped
2 tbsp roughly chopped flat parsley or dill

Place the first five ingredients in a small bowl and beat well. Add the oil gradually, beating constantly, until amalgamated. Place the remainder of the ingredients in a large mixing bowl, pour over the dressing and stir. Refrigerate for a few hours to allow the flavor to develop.

BEET LEAVES RISOTTO

750 g beetroot leaves 
1 large onion
3 - 4 tbsps olive oil
1 - 2 hot red chilies (optional)
300 g Arborio rice
1.2 l hot chicken or vegetarian stock
100 g feta cheese
a little salt
50 g pine nuts or slivered almonds, browned in a little olive oil
lemon quarters
(Serves
4 - 6)

Remove the tough stems from leaves wash and chop finely. Wash very well in a few changes of cold water. Pile up the leaves and roll them into bundles and slice into wide julienne.

Heat the oil in a large heavy bottomed frying pan. Add the onion and chopped stems and sauté gently until the onion is transparent. Add the chopped leaves and sauté on a high flame for 4 - 5 minutes, until the leaves are wilted. Add the rice and stir the rice for about 2 - 3 minutes or until it is well coated.

Stir in 250 ml of the hot stock, reduce the heat to a gentle simmer and cook for 4 - 5 minutes stirring frequently or until the rice absorbed the liquid. Add some more liquid and repeat. When the third addition of the stock was absorbed and the rice is almost tender, add the feta cheese and go on cooking until it is melted. Sprinkle with pine nuts and serve with lemon wedges.

CHICKEN AND BEETROOT FRIKADELS

This dish originated in Besarabia, a constantly disputed area between Russia and Rumania. It was traditionally made using rosel (fermented beetroot juice) and pickled beetroots as a base. In the version below fresh beetroot is used.

500 g boneless chicken breast, minced
50 g raw beetroot, finely grated
25 - 50 g breadcrumbs or Matzo meal
1 egg (extra large)
grated rind of ½ lemon
sea salt and freshly ground pepper
1 tbsp chopped parsley (optional)
oil for frying

For the pot:
1 medium onion, sliced thinly
250 g (8 oz) beetroot, sliced thinly
25 ml (1 fl. oz) oil
juice of 1 lemon
300 ml water or semi-dry white wine
1 tbsp sugar (optional)
Salt and freshly ground pepper
 
(Serves 6 as first course)

Mix the minced chicken breast with the remainder of the ingredients. If mixture is too loose add some more breadcrumbs. Form into small patties 3 cm in diameter. Heat the oil and fry the patties for a minute or two until they start to take colour. Lift and drain.

Heat the oil in a heavy bottomed saucepan and add the sliced onions. Sauté them until they softened and transparent. Remove from the heat. Add the slices beetroot and place the fried patties on top. In a small pot, bring water or wine, lemon and sugar (if used), to the boil and pour over the patties. Simmer for 25-30 minutes. With a perforated spoon lift the patties and arrange on a heated serving dish. Lift the cooked beetroot and onion, arranging around the patties. Set aside and keep warm. Either condense by rapid boil or thicken the cooking juice with 2 tsp of cornstarch. Pour over the patties. Sprinkle with parsley and serve hot.

QUICK BEETROOT BORSCHT

Although this version makes a good hot soup it is best as a cold drink. Served either as a starter or as a refreshing drink during or after a summer meal. For special occasions add a tot of Vodka, Gin or even better – 50 ml of chilled Champagne, to each portion.

1 kg beetroot, peeled and roughly sliced
1.5 l vegetable stock, chicken stock or water
4 sticks of celery with their leaves, tied in a piece of string
juice of 1 or more lemons to taste
1 tbsp honey or sugar or to taste (optional)
1 - 2 tbsp finely chopped gherkin (optional)
sea salt 
sour cream
 
(Serves 4 - 6)

Place the sliced beet into a food processor and process at high speed, for 1 minute until coarsely chopped but not puréed. Transfer into a stainless steel or enamel saucepan cover with the stock, add the celery and bring to the boil. Simmer at medium heat for 25 minutes. 

Strain the liquid through a fine sieve and return to the saucepan. Add the lemon juice and honey (if used) and salt. Bring rapidly to the boil and simmer for a few seconds, switch of the heat and skim. Chill for at least 2 hours and serve sprinkled with chopped gherkin and a dollop of sour cream.

BORSCHT

Borscht and kasha – buckwheat porridge was the mainstay of the Polish and Russian peasants – both nations claim to be the originators of this dish delicious and substantial dish that included everything that the cellar offered, bits of ham, bacon, shank bones and smoked pork. 

500 g (1 lb) soup beef (chuck, shin or neck)
a few marrowbones
2½ l water or stock
1 small white cabbage, shredded
500 g raw beetroot, peeled and cubed
250 g sour apples, peeled, cored and cubed
100 g celeriac or turnip peeled and cubed
1 large onion, chopped, or the white part of 2 leeks, washed and shredded
sea salt
pepper
2 bay leaves
juice of 1 large lemon or vinegar to taste
sugar (optional)
(Serves 6 - 8)

Wash the meat and bones thoroughly. Place in a large stockpot and bring to the boil. Reduce the heat and simmer very gently for 1½ hours. Skim very well. Add the chopped vegetables and seasoning. Continue to simmer for a further hour. Lift the meat and slice into large chunks before returning it to the stockpot. 

Serve piping hot, serving some of the meat and a marrowbone to each diner. Hand around mashed fresh garlic and some home made mustard for each diner to add to the soup according to taste.

For more on Oded Schwartz, consultant, food historian and author of the highly acclaimed book 'Preserving', On Showcook See Cauliflower So what can be more soothing than the creamy crusted cauliflower cheese?

Oded is giving classes and demonstrations on preserving and other specialized subjects. For more information, please contact Oded at odedschwartz@cybersmart.co.za or (021) 426-2397 

© Oded Schwartz

 

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Last modified: June 06, 2008