The Concise Oxford dictionary describes chutney as
pungent, originally Indian condiment of fruit, vinegar etc. - a puny and
dull entry for this versatile condiment that now, casually, appears on
tables all over the world. Oded Schwartz invites us to try these
fascinating blends!
The word chutney
comes from the Hindu word
‘chutni’ meaning spicy. By default the word also means lick-able,
lekker, good enough to eat. Indeed, chutney started its life as a pungent
mix of vegetables and spices which are ground to a fine paste on a
grinding stone. The paste, mixed with sour fruit pulp or vinegar was
served to add relish to the bland, starchy diet of rice. In India and the
vast Indian Diaspora those fresh chutneys are still used to add contrast,
interest and cleanse the palate. Though now, they are mostly done in a
blender.
The fruity, jam like
chutneys, so familiar on
supermarket shelves today existed in India before the arrival of the
British, but it was the Colonial settlers who spread it around the world.
Chutney with its sour, sweet savour suited the bland British food. As
early as the beginning of the 18th century, chutney became de rigueur
at every London fashionable table where it was served to accompany cold
cuts, cheese and curries.
In the beginning the chutney was imported from India
but soon local recipes started to appear in cookery books. The chutneys
become sweeter, less spicy and the exotic ingredients where replaced by
apples and pears – a good way to utilize a windfall and a wonderful relish
to eat with cheese. Those ‘farmhouse’ created recipes quickly found
their way into wherever the British colonized incorporating local
ingredients and sensibilities to create classics like the South African
‘Mrs Balls Apricot Chutney’, the Virginia peach and pear Chutney and a
vast range of delicious Caribbean chutneys. It is interesting to note that
the Caribbean are also the birth place of ‘chutney music’ – a
combination of traditional Indian music and calypso.
Chutneys can be sweet, hot, sour or spicy, smooth or
chunky. Whatever their individual characteristics, all use sugar and
vinegar as a preservative. I like my chutneys to have a lot of texture, so
I cut the ingredients into large chunks. If you prefer a smoother product,
slice fruit and vegetables into smaller pieces or process in a food
processor until coarsely chopped.
Use mellow vinegars such as cider, grape or citrus
– distilled malt vinegar produces too harsh a result. Keep chutneys for
at least two weeks before serving them, to allow time to meld and mellow
their flavours.
Finally,
I would like to quote a favourite remark in
a late 19th Century book of preserving. The author - Marion Harris Neil -
ends her recipe for ‘Indian Chutney’ thus: ‘Chutneys are intended to
act upon the taste in direct contrast to the meat with which they are
eaten, and therefore spices, aromatics and acid assume the ascendant’.
GINGER
CHUTNEY
This is my adaptation of a recipe I found in an
undated pickling book, probably published more then a hundred years ago
where it is called Indian chutney.
The recipe makes colourful, light and fragrant
chutney which is particularly good with cheese, cold and hot pies or a
juicy or braaied burger.
300
g fresh ginger, peeled and shredded
300 g red peppers, de-seeded and diced
250 g cucumber, quartered lengthways and thickly sliced
250 g raisins
250 g onions, coarsely chopped
4 lemons, halved lengthways, pips removed, sliced thinly
1 litre vinegar
500 g sugar
2 tsps salt
(Makes 1.5kg)
Put all the ingredients, except the sugar and salt,
into the preserving pan. Bring the mixture to the boil, then reduce the
heat and simmer gently for about 30 minutes until the fruit and vegetable
have softened.
Add the sugar and salt to the pan, stirring until
they have dissolved. Simmer for 30-45 minutes, until most of the liquid
has evaporated and the chutney is thick.
Ladle the mixture into hot sterilized jars, then
seal. Ready within 2 weeks.
RED
TOMATO CHUTNEY
Mild and fragrant chutney that is ideal to serve with
cold fish as well as with cheese and cold cuts. Originally the recipe was
made with jaggery – unrefined sugar. I have seen it in a health shops
and shops specializing in Indian ingredients. If unobtainable use moist,
unrefined brown sugar.
3
tbsp ground nuts canola or sesame oil
300 g onions, coarsely chopped
1 head of garlic, peeled and coarsely chopped
100 g fresh ginger, shredded
2 - 3 red chillies, deseeded and cut into thick strips (optional)
1 kg firm, red plum or Roma tomatoes, skinned, deseeded and chopped
125 g jagarry or dark brown sugar
250 ml
red wine vinegar
6
green cardamom pods
90 g
basil or mint, chopped
(Makes 1 kg)
Heat the oil in the preserving pan and add the
chopped onion, garlic, ginger and chilli, if using. Gently fry for 5
minutes or until the onion starts to colour. Add the tomatoes and cook for
15 minutes or until they are soft.
Add the sugar and the vinegar, stirring until the
sugar has dissolved. Bring to the boil, then simmer for 25-30 minutes,
stirring frequently, until most of the liquid has evaporated and the
mixture is thick. Remove the pan off the heat.
Grind the cardamom in the spice mill or coffee
grinder. Add to the chutney through a sieve and stir in the basil or mint.
Ladle into hot sterilized jars and seal. Ready to eat immediately but
improves with 2 week maturation.
PUMPKIN
CHUTNEY
Pumpkins make superb, rich golden chutney. If, like
me you prefer a crunchy texture, cook the mixture for less time than
recommended in step 2, so that the pumpkin still has some bite and leave
the chutney to mature for up to 6 weeks.
Delicious with cold or hot pies, cheese and curries.
1.25
kg
pumpkin, peeled, deseeded and cut to 2.5cm chunks
750 g
apple, peeled, cored and coarsely chopped
75 g
ginger, peeled and finely shredded
3 - 4
red chillies, deseeded and sliced
2
tbsps white mustard seeds
2
tbsps black mustard seeds
1
litre cider or white wine vinegar
500 g
white or light brown sugar
1
tbsp salt
(Makes 2kg)
Put all the ingredients except the sugar and salt, in
the preserving pan and mix well.
Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer
for 20-25 minutes until the pumpkin is just tender.
Add the sugar and salt. Return to the boil stirring
until they dissolve. Simmer, stirring frequently for about 1 hour, until
most of the liquid has evaporated and the mixture is thick.
Ladle into hot sterilized jars, seal and leave to
mellow for about 4 weeks.
END
OF THE FRUIT BOWL CHUTNEY
Recently I found that I was left with quite a lot of
fruit in my fruit bowl which were nearing their ‘sale-by’ date. There
was a pineapple, some plums, a few mangoes, grapes and some oranges.
This
incidental combination made extremely tasty and colourful chutney that is
ideal to serve with cheese or as topping to cold beef sandwich.
Although ready to serve almost immediately, this
chutney mellows with keeping for about 3 – 4 weeks.
2 kg mixed fruit, peeled and sliced
a few hot chillies, de seeded and sliced
2 tbsps mustard seeds
1 tbsp turmeric
1 tbsp salt
500 ml vinegar
500 ml water
300 g dark brown sugar
1 tbsp, ground fennel seeds
1 tsp ground cardamom
(Makes about 2 kg)
Put all the ingredients except the sugar, fennel and
cardamom in the preserving pan and mix well. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer
for 20-25 minutes until the fruit is just tender. Add the sugar, return to the boil stirring until the
sugar has dissolved. Simmer, stirring frequently for about 1 hour, until
most of the liquid has evaporated and the mixture is thick. Add the fennel and cardamom and stir well. Ladle into
hot sterilized jars and seal.
CASHEW
NUT CHUTNEY
Delicately green, fresh chutney which is served to
refresh the palate, add texture and interest. Serve as a side dish with
curries, a healthy nutritious dip together with fresh Cos lettuce or
tender vegetables. Or, spread thickly over pan fried fish and finish under
the grill to a crunchy crust.
Although fresh coriander is traditional, I sometimes
use fresh dill or a mixture of flat parsley and mint.
For a nuttier chutney:
roast the cashew for about 15
minutes or until they are pale brown.
250 g cashew nuts
1 small onion, peeled &
chopped
1 small bunch fresh
coriander
2.5cm fresh ginger, peeled
& chopped
100 - 150ml water
2 - 3 green chillies,
de-seeded and finely chopped
1/4 tsp chilli powder or
sweet paprika (optional)
salt
Place the nuts, onion, coriander, ginger and water in
the food processor and process into a smooth thick paste adding more water
if necessary. For a creamier smoother result process in a blender
increasing the amount of liquid used. Stir in the rest of the
ingredients and mix well. Cover and refrigerate for up to a week.
For
more on Oded Schwartz, consultant, food historian and author of the highly
acclaimed book 'Preserving', On Showcook See
Cauliflower
So what can be more soothing than the creamy crusted cauliflower
cheese?
Oded is giving classes
and demonstrations on preserving and other specialized subjects.
For more information, please contact Oded at
odedschwartz@cybersmart.co.za
or (021) 426-2397
©
Oded Schwartz 2008
Photography Franz Lauinger
