KITCHEN SECRETS

April is Fairlady’s Birthday month, Food Editor Nikki Werner visits three past Fairlady Foodies; Abigail Donnelly, Justine Drake and Annette Kesler, as they cook their own favourite recipe from their years on the magazine's food pages. 

"Always taste your food as you cook, and cook from the heart," says Abigail.

Abigail Donnelly was Fairlady food editor from 1999 to 2006,  bringing her own inimitable  style to the magazine. With her innovative styling and use  of ingredients she showed that food could be both inventive  and accessible and gained a loyal following. Abigail is  now editor of Eat Out magazine  and food editor of Taste.

Why do you love this recipe? 
I had a great response from  readers who said although  they thought their scone  recipes were great, these were  the best. My gran was my  inspiration – she baked like  a goddess, but couldn’t bake  scones, so I’ve dedicated this  recipe to my ‘nanna’. 

What were your favourite  foods then and what are your favourites now?
I still adore bread and butter pudding and anything with a prawn in it. I love lamb-on-the bone  curry and crème caramel. And the classics: real, good,  honest food. 

Worst moment? 
We’d set up a table laden with  food for a Fairlady Bride shoot  under a gazebo in a rose garden.  I turned to talk to the photographer,  and the next thing I  saw was a Great Dane with the  entire glazed ham in his mouth. 

HOME-BAKED SCONES

Serve freshly baked scones with  butter and dollops of jam and cream.
(First published in the August 2003 issue.) 

560 g (4½ cups) cake flour 
30 ml (2 tbsp) baking powder 
5 ml (1 tsp) salt 
250 g butter, softened 
3 eggs 
200 ml (4/5 cup) buttermilk 
(Makes about 14 scones)  

Cook’s tip: Pop the tray of uncooked scones into the fridge for 15 minutes before baking. 

Preheat the oven to 200ºC. Sift the flour, baking powder and salt into a bowl, rub in the butter with your fingertips until the mixture has the texture of coarse crumbs. Use fingertips, as using warm hands will cause the butter to melt, resulting in hard, flat scones. 

Beat the eggs and buttermilk together and add to the flour mixture. Gently cut the liquid in with a butter knife to form a soft dough. The dough should be soft and sticky; add a little flour if it’s too wet, but not too much. 

Place the dough on a lightly floured surface, and pat lightly to a thickness of 2cm. Cut out rounds with a cookie cutter, a cup or a glass. 

Place the rounds on a greased baking tray and bake for 10–15 minutes or until puffed and golden. If you prefer scones with a slightly softer crust, pack them close together on the baking tray. Brush them with milk to get a golden brown colour. 

 

Abigail’s extras: 
*
If you prefer a sweeter scone, add 60ml (4 tbsp) castor sugar to sifted flour. 
*
Use sour cream instead of buttermilk. 
* To make your own sour cream, add 10ml (2 tsp) lemon juice or vinegar to 200 ml (4/5 cup) milk. 
* To make cheese scones, add 2 cups grated cheddar to the dough. 
* For a fruity scone, add 1 cup chopped dates or sultanas. 

 

"Relax and have fun when you cook… food tastes  much better when you enjoy preparing it, "says Justine Drake.

Justine Drake is best remembered for her much-loved ‘Busy Cook’ column, published from 1992 to 1997 (and then as a cookbook) during Annette Kesler’s  tenure as food editor. Combined with  Justine’s ebullient personality and fresh,  modern take, it provided a springboard  for her celebrity food career. Justine is  editor of Eat In and Fresh Living, and  festival director of the Taste of Cape Town  and Taste of Joburg food festivals. 

Why do you love this recipe? 
Wading through the Fairlady files brought  back fabulous memories, but to be honest,  very often I found a recipe I loved but  with a photograph so cringe-worthy I  didn’t think I could include it! Luckily it wasn’t the other way around: the recipe  is, in the end, the important bit. This  was a great recipe with a great image. 

What were your favourite foods then and  what are your favourites now?
My favourites aren’t different – there  are just more of them! I’ve grown to  appreciate simpler flavours like fresh  herbs and aromatics, rather than fullflavoured  sauces and masses of condiments.  I still find the ultimate culinary comfort in the likes of roast chicken and spaghetti bolognaise and I adore salad. 

SERIOUSLY GARLICKY MUSSELS

Dig in with plenty of crusty bread so you don’t miss out on all the  garlicky juices at the bottom of the bowl.
(First published in the 2 April 1997 issue, Justine has since added celery to the recipe.)

45 ml (3 tbsp) butter 
30 ml (2 tbsp) olive oil 
2 onions, finely chopped 
8–10 cloves garlic, crushed 
4 sticks celery, finely sliced 
250 ml (1 cup) white wine 
750 ml (3 cups) chicken or vegetable stock 
5 ml (1 tsp) sugar 
65 ml (¼ cup) chopped parsley a grinding of milled pepper 
2 kg mussels in shell 
(Serves 4)

Heat butter and oil in a large saucepan. Add onions, garlic and celery and sauté until glossy, about 5 minutes. Add wine, stock, sugar, parsley and season with pepper. Bring to the boil. 

Add mussels, cover and cook for about 6 minutes; mussels are ready when shells have opened. (Discard any that do not open.) Ladle into a heated serving bowl. Serve with crusty bread. 

 

 

Annette’s quintessential cooking tip:  Keep it healthy. Bake your own bread, use home-made stocks, sea salt, apple  cider vinegar, olive oil, lemons, garlic  and fresh herbs! Keep things simple. 

Annette Kesler was Fairlady’s longest  reigning food editor, from 1969 until  1999. Through her, Fairlady became  known as a reliable and consistently excellent source of recipes. For me,  and countless others who used to tear  out and file her food pages, Annette  will always be the food doyenne who taught us how to cook. Annette is editor of www.showcook.co.za

Why do you love this recipe? 
You may be surprised at my choice of  recipe, as this seems like such an old  chestnut! However, I do believe South Africa was introduced to butternut  soup when I included the recipe on a cookery card in 1982. It obviously  struck a chord and has since been prepared in a thousand variations. It’s  one of the most delicious, comforting  and simple soups to make using a  vegetable that is readily available  and easy on the budget.

What were your favourite foods then and what are your favourites now? 
I have always adored stunning soups  and good salads – conventional as  well as variations on seasonal themes. Combining fruits with leafy greens,  and vegetables like fine green beans  with succulent black mushrooms  and fresh garlic. Room temperature  vegetables make the most wonderful salads with meats, fish or poultry. 

BUTTERNUT SOUP WITH LEEKS AND FRESH GINGER

Butternut soup improves with  standing and can be served hot  or well chilled.
(First published in the March 1982 issue.)

60 ml (4 tbsp) butter 
60 ml (4 tbsp) orange  peel, slivered 
30 ml (2 tbsp) ginger, freshly grated 
1 kg butternut squash or pumpkin, cut into  chunks 
1 large potato, diced 
1–2 leeks, finely sliced 
1–2 parsnips, sliced 
2 medium carrots, diced 
1 sprig celery leaves 
sea salt and milled black pepper 
30 ml (2 tbsp) cornflour for thickening, if  necessary 
500 ml (2 cups) homemade chicken stock 
500 ml (2 cups) milk 
60 ml (4 tbsp) cream 
coriander, finely chopped 
(Serves 4–6)

Heat butter in a large, heavy-based saucepan until  foaming. Add orange peel,  ginger and vegetables.  Stir-fry for 2–5 minutes, then  cover and cook very gently over low heat until the vegetables are  soft (15–30 minutes). Stir with a  wooden spoon from time to time. Season with sea salt and pepper. Sprinkle with cornflour, if necessary, and stir thoroughly. Gradually add the stock and then the milk, stirring constantly  until the soup comes to the boil.  Remove the saucepan from the  stove, transfer the soup to a food  processor or blender and purée  until smooth. 

If serving the soup hot, return  it to the saucepan and reheat over low heat. Stir in the cream and serve in heated soup bowls. 
If  serving it chilled,
refrigerate if for 2–3 hours then stir  in the cream and serve in chilled  soup bowls. 

Food Editor Nikki Werner 
Photographs Russel Wasserfall

FAIRLADY Editor Suzy Brockensha
sbrokensha@fairlady.com

Fairlady Freepost CB0006, Cape Town, 8000
Fax: 021 405 1042
Enquiries:  0860 103 665
Outside SA: +27 021 405 1041
Subscribe: 0860 103 665
E-Mail: fairlady_subs@media24.com 

 

Home ] Up ]

Send mail to info@showcook.co.za with questions or comments about this web site.
Copyright ©1999-2008 SHOWCOOK, COOKING FOR YOU
Last modified: May 08, 2008