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KITCHEN
SECRETS
April is
Fairlady’s Birthday month, Food Editor Nikki Werner visits three past
Fairlady Foodies; Abigail Donnelly, Justine Drake and Annette Kesler, as they cook their own favourite recipe from their
years on the magazine's food pages.
  
"Always taste your food as you cook, and cook from the heart," says
Abigail.
Abigail Donnelly was Fairlady food editor from 1999 to 2006,
bringing her own inimitable
style to the magazine. With her innovative styling and use
of ingredients she showed that food could be both inventive
and accessible and gained a loyal following. Abigail is
now editor of Eat Out magazine
and food editor of Taste.
Why do you love this recipe?
I had a great response from
readers who said although
they thought their scone
recipes were great, these were
the best. My gran was my
inspiration – she baked like
a goddess, but couldn’t bake
scones, so I’ve dedicated this
recipe to my ‘nanna’.
What were your favourite
foods then and what are your favourites now?
I still adore bread and butter pudding and anything with a
prawn in it. I love lamb-on-the bone
curry and crème caramel. And the classics: real, good,
honest food.
Worst moment?
We’d set up a table laden with
food for a Fairlady Bride shoot
under a gazebo in a rose garden.
I turned to talk to the photographer,
and the next thing I
saw was a Great Dane with the
entire glazed ham in his mouth.
HOME-BAKED SCONES
Serve freshly baked scones with
butter and dollops of jam and cream.
(First published in the August 2003 issue.)
560 g (4½ cups) cake flour
30 ml (2 tbsp) baking powder
5 ml (1 tsp) salt
250 g butter, softened
3 eggs
200 ml (4/5 cup) buttermilk
(Makes about 14 scones)
Cook’s tip: Pop the tray of uncooked scones into the fridge for 15 minutes before baking.
Preheat the oven to 200ºC. Sift the flour, baking powder and salt into a bowl, rub in the butter with your fingertips until the mixture has
the texture of coarse crumbs. Use fingertips, as using warm hands will cause the butter to melt, resulting in hard, flat scones.
Beat the eggs and buttermilk together and add to the flour mixture. Gently cut the liquid in with a butter knife to form a soft dough. The dough should be soft and sticky; add a little flour if it’s too wet, but not too much.
Place the dough on a lightly floured surface, and pat lightly to a thickness of 2cm. Cut out rounds with a cookie cutter, a cup or a glass.
Place the rounds on a greased baking tray and bake for 10–15 minutes or until puffed and golden. If you prefer scones with a slightly softer crust, pack them close together on the baking tray. Brush them with milk to get a golden brown
colour.
Abigail’s
extras:
* If you prefer a sweeter scone, add 60ml (4 tbsp) castor sugar to sifted flour.
* Use sour cream instead of buttermilk.
* To make your own sour cream, add 10ml (2 tsp) lemon juice or vinegar to
200 ml (4/5 cup) milk.
* To make cheese scones, add 2 cups grated cheddar to the dough.
* For a fruity scone,
add 1 cup chopped dates or
sultanas.
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"Relax and have fun when you cook… food tastes
much better when you enjoy preparing it, "says
Justine Drake.
Justine Drake is best remembered for
her much-loved ‘Busy Cook’ column, published from 1992 to 1997
(and then
as a cookbook) during Annette Kesler’s
tenure as food editor. Combined with
Justine’s ebullient personality and fresh,
modern take, it provided a springboard
for her celebrity food career. Justine is
editor of Eat In and Fresh Living, and
festival director of the Taste of Cape Town
and Taste of Joburg food festivals.
Why do you love this recipe?
Wading through the Fairlady files brought
back fabulous memories, but to be honest,
very often I found a recipe I loved but
with a photograph so cringe-worthy I
didn’t think I could include it! Luckily
it wasn’t the other way around: the recipe
is, in the end, the important bit. This
was a great recipe with a great image.
What were your favourite foods then and
what are your favourites now?
My favourites aren’t different – there
are just more of them! I’ve grown to
appreciate simpler flavours like fresh
herbs and aromatics, rather than fullflavoured
sauces and masses of condiments.
I still find the ultimate culinary
comfort in the likes of roast chicken and
spaghetti bolognaise and I adore salad.
SERIOUSLY GARLICKY MUSSELS
Dig in with plenty of crusty bread so you don’t miss out on all the
garlicky juices at the bottom of the bowl.
(First published in the 2 April 1997 issue, Justine has since added celery to the recipe.)
45 ml (3 tbsp) butter
30 ml (2 tbsp) olive oil
2 onions, finely chopped
8–10 cloves garlic, crushed
4 sticks celery, finely sliced
250 ml (1 cup) white wine
750 ml (3 cups) chicken or vegetable stock
5 ml (1 tsp) sugar
65 ml (¼ cup) chopped parsley a grinding of milled pepper
2 kg mussels in shell
(Serves 4)
Heat butter and oil in a large saucepan. Add onions, garlic and celery and sauté until glossy, about 5 minutes. Add wine, stock, sugar, parsley and season with pepper. Bring to the boil.
Add mussels, cover and cook for about 6 minutes; mussels are ready when shells have opened. (Discard any that do not open.) Ladle into a heated serving bowl. Serve with crusty bread.
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Annette’s quintessential cooking tip:
Keep it healthy. Bake your own bread,
use home-made stocks, sea salt, apple
cider vinegar, olive oil, lemons, garlic
and fresh herbs! Keep things simple.
Annette Kesler was Fairlady’s longest
reigning food editor, from 1969 until
1999. Through her, Fairlady became
known as a reliable and consistently excellent source of recipes. For me,
and countless others who used to tear
out and file her food pages, Annette
will always be the food doyenne who
taught us how to cook. Annette is
editor of www.showcook.co.za
Why do you love this recipe?
You may be surprised at my choice of
recipe, as this seems like such an old
chestnut! However, I do believe South
Africa was introduced to butternut
soup when I included the recipe on
a cookery card in 1982. It obviously
struck a chord and has since been
prepared in a thousand variations. It’s
one of the most delicious, comforting
and simple soups to make using a
vegetable that is readily available
and easy on the budget.
What were your favourite foods then
and what are your favourites now?
I have always adored stunning soups
and good salads – conventional as
well as variations on seasonal themes.
Combining fruits with leafy greens,
and vegetables like fine green beans
with succulent black mushrooms
and fresh garlic. Room temperature
vegetables make the most wonderful
salads with meats, fish or poultry.
BUTTERNUT SOUP WITH LEEKS AND FRESH GINGER
Butternut soup improves with
standing and can be served hot
or well chilled.
(First published in the March 1982 issue.)
60 ml (4 tbsp) butter
60 ml (4 tbsp) orange
peel, slivered
30 ml (2 tbsp) ginger,
freshly grated
1 kg butternut squash or pumpkin, cut into
chunks
1 large potato, diced
1–2 leeks, finely sliced
1–2 parsnips, sliced
2 medium carrots, diced
1 sprig celery leaves
sea salt and milled black pepper
30 ml (2 tbsp) cornflour for thickening, if
necessary
500 ml (2 cups) homemade chicken stock
500 ml (2 cups) milk
60 ml (4 tbsp) cream
coriander, finely
chopped
(Serves 4–6)
Heat butter in a large,
heavy-based saucepan until
foaming. Add orange peel,
ginger and vegetables. Stir-fry for 2–5 minutes, then
cover and cook very gently over
low heat until the vegetables are
soft (15–30 minutes). Stir with a
wooden spoon from time to time.
Season with sea salt and pepper. Sprinkle with cornflour, if
necessary, and stir thoroughly. Gradually add the stock and
then the milk, stirring constantly
until the soup comes to the boil. Remove the saucepan from the
stove, transfer the soup to a food
processor or blender and purée
until smooth.
If serving the soup hot, return
it to the saucepan and reheat over
low heat. Stir in the cream and serve in heated soup bowls.
If
serving it chilled, refrigerate if for
2–3 hours then stir
in the cream and serve in chilled
soup bowls.
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Food Editor Nikki Werner
Photographs Russel Wasserfall
FAIRLADY
Editor Suzy Brockensha
sbrokensha@fairlady.com
Fairlady
Freepost CB0006, Cape Town, 8000
Fax:
021 405 1042
Enquiries:
0860 103 665
Outside
SA:
+27 021 405 1041
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