FEAST OF FLAVOURS
from the French Kitchen

A Step-by-Step Culinary Adventure by Elsa Van der Nest

Elsa Van der Nest, talented chef, author, superb teacher now living in Singapore, has an irrepressible passion for food and has recently produced two informative and accessible books celebrating a Feast of Flavours from both the French and Italian Kitchens. Elsa is no stranger to either as she has worked with some of the top chefs worldwide from Anton Mosimann and Raymond Blanc at Le Manoir Aux Quat'Saisons to Gennaro Contaldo and Michael Ginor. 

Enjoy the second of a step-by-step two part series from Elsa's FEAST OF FLAVOURS. We have chosen Pumpkin Soup, rich and comforting, a typical French Salad with bacon and crisp croutons, a wonderful stuffed squid with a tangy tomato sauce, Veal Chops reminiscent of Normandy with scented apples and a stunning Chocolate Cake that will become one of your signature dishes. 

PUMPKIN SOUP (Soupe de Potiron)

Pumpkins are used to make gratins in northern Italy and southern France. This rich, comforting soup is usually served during winter. 

1,5 kg (3 lb 4 ½ oz) pumpkin, peeled and seeded
125 g (4 ½ oz) butter
salt, to taste
freshly ground black pepper, to taste
4 leeks, white parts only, thinly sliced
1,5 litres (2 2/5 pints/ 6 cups) chicken stock
300 ml (½ pint/1 ¼ cups) + extra for garnishing 
1 tsp ground nutmeg
chervil (optional) for garnishing

Cut pumpkin flesh into chunks and place in a roasting dish. Cut butter into cubes, then measure up 50 g and distribute over pumpkin. Season to taste and roast pumpkin in a preheated oven at 180°C (350°F) for about 25 minutes or until the flesh is soft. Remove and set aside to cool. 

Melt remaining butter in a saucepan. Add leeks and cook until soft and golden, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon. Pour in stock and season to taste. Simmer for about 20 minutes. Add roasted pumpkin and cook for a further 10 minutes. Remove from heat.

Add cream and nutmeg, then transfer to a blender (processor) to purée. Serve garnished with extra cream and chervil if using.

SALAD WITH BACON AND CROUTONS (Salade aux Noix)

Walnut oil is used in many dressings. This particular salad is typically served at lunch in the summer with a chilled glass of French wine.

8 thin slices baguette
1 clove garlic, peeled and halved
70 g (2 ½ oz) walnuts, roughly chopped
280 g (10 oz) streaky bacon, sliced into strips
150 g (5 oz) mesclun leaves (rocket)

Dressing:
1 tbsp walnut oil
1 tbsp red wine vinegar
1 tsp Dijon mustard
85 ml (2 ½ fl oz/ 1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil

Preheat oven-grill and rub bread slices with garlic. Drizzle a little oil on each side and grill until golden brown. Remove and leave to cool.

Prepare dressing: Combine walnut oil, vinegar and mustard in a bowl. Whisk in remaining olive oil. Adding in a thin stream. Season to taste, if necessary and set aside. Immerse walnuts in boiling water and let stand for 1 minute, then drain in a colander and shake dry. Set aside.

Sauté bacon in a dry frying pan (skillet) until crisp. Remove with a slotted spoon and drain on paper towels. Fry walnuts in the bacon fat left in the pan for about 2 minutes or until golden, then dish out. 

Place salad leaves in a large bowl and sprinkle bacon and walnuts over. Pour dressing into the same pan and heat through then pour over salad and toss well. Lastly, add garlic croutons and serve. Alternatively, line a serving platter with the croutons and top with tossed salad. 

STUFFED SQUID (Chipirons Farcis)

The tangy taste of tomatoes make a perfect foil for the richly flavourful stuffing of shallots, garlic, ham and fresh herbs.

6 large squids, or 10 – 12 medium size
4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

1 red onion, peeled and finely chopped 

Stuffing:
70 g (2 ½ oz) white sliced bread, crusts removed
85 ml (2 ½ fl oz) / 1/3 cup) white wine
90 ml (3 fl oz/ 6 tbsp) olive oil
6 shallots, peeled and finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped
280 g (10 oz) ham or prosciutto, chopped
2 tbsp chopped parsley, + extra for garnishing
2 tbsp chopped thyme, + extra for garnishing
1 egg, beaten, preferably free-range

Wash squids under cold running water. Cut off and reserve tentacles, then remove and discard heads, quills, wings and purple skins. Gently turn squid tubes inside out to clean, then turn back and pat dry with paper towels. Chop tentacles finely and set aside.

Prepare tomato sauce: Heat olive oil in a saucepan and sauté onion until softened. Add canned tomatoes and seasoning. Reduce heat to low and cook for about 15 minutes, then remove from heat. 

Prepare stuffing: Put bread slices into a bowl and add wine. Leave to soak.  Heat 2 tbsp olive oil in a frying pan (skillet). Sauté shallots and garlic briefly, then add ham or prosciutto, tentacles, herbs and seasoning to taste. Cook for 5 minutes. Remove from heat.

Add soaked bread slices to pan ingredients. Break them up and blend them into mixture with a fork. Leave to cool, then mix in beaten egg. Spoon stuffing into squid tubes. Secure openings with bamboo skewers of cocktail sticks.

Heat remaining olive oil in a pan. Lightly brown squid tubes on all sides, then transfer to a baking dish or casserole. Add tomato sauce and bake in a preheated oven at 180°C (350°F) for 1 – 1 ½ hours, depending on size of squids. Turn them from time to time. If serving warm, leave squid tubes whole and serve garnished with herbs. If serving cold, slice squids into 2 cm (1 inch) rounds, place on serving plates and spoon over to serve. Garnish as desired. 

VEAL CHOPS, NORMANDY STYLE (Côtes de veau Normandes) 

This dish of tender veal and sweet apples is well-complemented and made substantial with the accompaniment of creamed potatoes.

3 Golden Delicious (yellow) apples, peeled and cored
85 g (3 oz) butter
4 – 6 veal chops, each about 200 g (7 oz)
salt, to taste
freshly ground black pepper, to taste
4 tbsp Calvados (apple brandy)
250 ml (8 fl oz/ 1 cup) crème fraîche or double (heavy) cream 

 

Peel and core apples, then halve each one. Slice each half into 3 equal wedges. Melt the butter in a non-stick pan and cook apples over moderate heat until golden. Remove from pan. Add remaining butter to pan. Season well and sauté over moderate heat for 5 minutes on each side. Remove veal from pan, then add calvados and cook until evaporated. Add crème fraîche and reduce by half, whisking constantly until sauce is of coating consistency. Remove from heat. Arrange veal chops on a serving platter and place apples around, then spoon sauce over. Serve dish with creamed potatoes, if desired.

FLOURLESS CHOCOLATE CAKE 
(Le Nègre)

In not using flour, this recipe makes a very soft-textured cake. Serve warm with freshly whipped cream.

200 g (7 oz) dark chocolate, preferably orange infused
200 g (7 oz) soft butter
200 g (7 oz) sugar, or more to taste
4 eggs, large preferably free-range, separated
icing (confectioner’s) sugar (optional) for dusting

Break chocolate into small pieces and melt in a bain-marie or double-boiler. Remove from heat. Add butter and stir with a spatula until smooth. Set aside. Add half the sugar to egg yolks and whisk until mixture is pale in colour, then beat in chocolate mixture. Separately beat egg whites until soft peaks form. Gradually add remaining sugar, beating until smooth and shiny. 

Fold 2 rounded (heaped) tbsp chocolate mixture into beaten egg whites. Gently fold egg white mixture into chocolate mixture with a slotted spoon. Pour batter into a greased, 22 cm (9 in) round cake pan. Bake on the centre shelf in a pre-heated oven at 190ºC (370ºF) for 40 minutes or until done. Dust surface with icing sugar, if using and slice to serve.

FEAST OF FLAVOURS from the French Kitchen

A Step-by-Step Culinary Adventure 
by Elsa Van der Nest

Marshall Cavendish International (Asia)
Times Centre, 1 New Industrial Road, Singapore, 536196
Tel: +65 6213 9300 

 
audrychow@sgmarshallcavendish.com 

For more information see Cook's Corner

 

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Last modified: June 06, 2008