GRILLING AND YOUR HEALTH 

By Susan Peters

Susan Peters in Florida, on the shore of the Gulf of Mexico, quizzes ace grilling experts on their healthy tips when using one of our favourite ways of cooking, whether it is grilling alfresco, broiling or even searing meat in a very hot frying pan. Susan raises some of current concerns, giving us food for thought.... 

Fred Thompson’s father loved steaks off the grill; he ate them several times a week. He also died from liver cancer. There is no way of knowing if those smoky, charred slabs of beef contributed to the cancer, as some studies would suggest, but in any case, Thompson, author of Barbecue Nation (The Taunton Press, 2007), is not about to forgo his family’s grilling traditions. 

According to the American Cancer Society’s website (Cancer.org), the health issue is this: The worrisome chemicals created by grilling meats, called heterocyclic amines (HAs), form during grilling, broiling or even searing meat in a very hot frying pan.  There is also some concern that fats from the meat dripping onto coals create additional chemicals in smoke that may land back on the meat. While this has caused cancer in animals, it is uncertain whether the amounts encountered on grilled meat actually increase the risk of cancer in people.

Thompson heeds the warnings of the American Cancer Society and explores techniques that make grilling a healthier process. “I start with a clean grill,” he says. “Charred proteins stick to the grill, and anything placed on top of them subsequently will also stick. My cleaning technique for any kind of grill is to tightly crumple up a piece of aluminum foil and, using tongs, vigorously rub the foil over the hot grates after I remove the grilled food. I also do this when I heat up the grill, just before swabbing the grates with a washcloth soaked in canola oil to lubricate [it] for the next batch of food."

In an effort to avoid too much charring, many people partially cook protein items before putting them on the grill. Thompson says this is a bad idea—especially with fish, which only requires a short cooking time from the start. Instead, he limits exposure to the grill’s smoke and controls the amount of charring by undercooking meat and large pieces of fish. Then, he finishes the cooking process in the microwave, where he can control the degree of doneness—a great idea for bringing specifically requested, well-done steaks to the table.

Another way Thompson adds smoky flavor to food is by grilling on a sheet of aluminum foil or a reusable, high-temperature silicone mat, with holes poked in each. Both methods prevent fat from dripping onto the grates and flaring up.

For adding healthy flavors to grilled food, think spices versus sauces. “Rubs are a better alternative to sauces and marinades because they usually have less salt and sugar, and you can control what goes into them. When seasoning fish, I like to use equal amounts of ground coriander and cumin. Those spices really bring out the ‘ocean’ flavor in fish without adding calories. And when complemented with curry powder, chili powder, smoked paprika or oregano, delicious flavor profiles develop.” 

He continues, “I’ve also been experimenting with sweeteners in rubs and have found that small amounts of Splenda can be substituted for sugar in spice blends. If you do use sugar, keep in mind that brown sugar will char faster than white. So, I use white sugar on items such as ribs and pork shoulders, which require a long period of time on the grill.”

Barbecue guru Rick Browne, author of numerous books on the topic of grilling, and host and executive producer of public television’s Barbecue America, stresses healthy grilling from a sanitation perspective. He says, "To be safe, use a meat thermometer on everything you barbecue. Clean cutting boards, knives or anything else that touches raw poultry, fish or meat, before using on any other food items."

Browne is also a proponent of grilling everything—not just meat. Grilled fruits top his list of quick, easy, healthy offerings. The technique is simple: just cut the fruit into bite-size pieces and grill directly over low to medium heat for a few minutes. The fruit pieces can be brushed with vegetable oil, sprinkled with cinnamon sugar, skewered or wrapped in foil before being placed on the grill. 

The dry heat of grilling intensifies and caramelizes the natural sugars in fruit, making it a delicious dessert or a component in salsas to accompany grilled fish or chicken.

Like Thompson, there are many people who will not give up grilling, but they can strive to limit the time their food is in contact with the fire. For great grilling techniques, turn to How to Grill (Workman Publishing, 2001), one of the many grilling cookbooks by author Steve Raichlen. Step-by-step photos and detailed recipes will make any novice successful at the grill. Raichlen has a knack for developing recipes with global appeal that emphasize healthy ingredients and techniques. Quick, easy and healthy—meals cooked on the grill are perfect for any day of the week.

BEEF FAJITAS
From How to Grill, by Steven Raichlen

Photograph by Greg Schneider

Steve suggests having each guest place sliced beef and grilled vegetables on a tortilla and garnish with chopped cilantro, sliced jalapeños, diced avocado, sour cream, salsas and a squeeze of lime. The tortilla can then be rolled into a neat bundle for eating.

Place the skirt steaks in a nonreactive baking dish in a single layer. Combine the chili powder, coriander, salt, cumin, garlic and onion powders, and black pepper in a small bowl and mix well. Sprinkle this mixture over the meat, patting it on with your fingertips. Let stand for 10 minutes. Squeeze the limes over the meat. Let marinate in the refrigerator for 30 minutes to 1 hour, covered.

Set up the grill for direct grilling and preheat to high.

Place the poblano and bell peppers on the hot grate and grill until charred on all sides, turning with tongs, 15 to 20 minutes. Transfer peppers to a cutting board, wrap in wet paper towels, and let cool. Meanwhile, grill the scallions until nicely browned, 3 to 5 minutes per side, turning with tongs.

Unwrap the peppers, pull off the burnt skin with your fingers (or scrape it off with a knife), cut the flesh off the core, scrape out the seeds, and cut into 1⁄4-inch strips. Cut the scallions into 2-inch pieces or keep whole. Arrange the pepper strips and scallions on a platter. Place the cilantro, jalapeños, avocado, sour cream, salsas, and lime wedges in attractive bowls.

Place the skirt steaks on the hot grate and grill until cooked to taste, 3 to 4 minutes per side for medium-rare. Transfer the steaks to a cutting board and let rest for 3 minutes. Using a sharp knife, cut each steak in half crosswise and thinly slice across the grain. Arrange the sliced steaks on the platter with the grilled vegetables.

Place the tortillas on the hot grate and grill until soft and pliable, 15 seconds per side.

CHRIS'S EUREKA CEDAR-PLANKED BARBECUE SALMON
From Barbecue Nation, by Fred Thompson

Photograph by Brian Hagiwara

You will need two planks for this recipe. (Remember, they will need to soak in water 4 to 6 hours before you use them, so plan accordingly.)

Light a charcoal fire or preheat your gas grill on high. Oil the cooking surface of the grill. Take 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and brush both sides of the cedar planks with it. Sprinkle the seasoning evenly over the cut side of the fillets. 

In a medium bowl, combine the dill, shallots, garlic, scallions, cracked pepper, remaining 2 tablespoons of olive oil, and the lemon juice. Stir to make a paste. Spread this mixture equally and generously over the flesh side of each salmon fillet.

Sprinkle the planks with sea salt and place on the grill. Close the lid and let heat for about 5 minutes, until they start to crackle and smoke. Lift the lid and place the salmon fillets, skin side down, on the planks. Close the lid and cook without turning for 10 to 12 minutes for medium, or to your desired degree of doneness. The planks may catch on fire, so keep an eye out and use a spray bottle filled with water to extinguish any flames.

Remove the planks from the grill and transfer the salmon to a platter. Arrange the lemon wedges around and serve immediately. Combine all the ingredients in a small bowl. This will keep in an airtight container in the refrigerator for several weeks.

Special thanks to:
 Chris’s Eureka Cedar-Planked Barbecue Salmon,  Photo by Brian Hagiwara, 
from 'Barbecue Nation' by Fred Thompson (The Taunton Press, 2007).
Beef Fajitas, Photo by Greg Schneider, 
from 'How to Grill' by Steven Raichlen (Workman Publishing, 2001)
The Frequent Fryers Cookbook (Regan Books, 2003), by Rick Browne

Susan Peters, the food editor for New You magazine, celebrates all things culinary by producing insightful and entertaining features for print and Internet media from her home base in Florida, on the shore of the Gulf of Mexico.