SPECIAL OCCASIONS

Showcook chats to John Jackson
of Royal Malewane

Where do you think we are food wise in 2006?
I am in a truly beautiful game lodge, though rather isolated, so maybe a little out of touch with the city-scene restaurants but all our guests (who are more than 99% from overseas) are astonished by the quality of ingredients and their food experiences in the finer establishments of South Africa. So I think South Africa is perceived as being one of the best kept "food secrets" of the world. 

The South African table, what is the direction?
Apart from a few people like Peter Veldsman who are creating "new" South African food based on our rich culinary heritage drawn from Europe and the East, maybe our food is a little too much the same as you get overseas. I think we could do more to create something with a uniquely South African feel. 

A real problem for our table is the increasing shortage of fresh fish combined with a poor distribution of what fresh fish there is. Over-fishing on our shores is something our authorities need to be much more aggressive about. Even in France today the fresh fish is astonishing.  

Are you a purist or are you pretty flexible in your approach to cooking?
I never had the luxury of formal cookery training so I largely had to teach myself, so I have always really done my own thing, which means that if my way works that's fine with me. I did have a salutary month in the kitchens of Roger Vergé. I was extremely fortunate to have found, just when I started cooking seriously, a strict muse who over 25 years has guided me in the right directions and rescued me from my follies: Annette Kesler has taught me so much about food, and anybody who has eaten at her table will agree with me. Her mantra to me was always "less is more".

Who would be the person you would most like to cook for?
Certainly some of the people that I HAVE cooked for, like Elton John and Bono and many celebrities are gracious and complimentary about our table. However, my quiet time at Royal Malewane has been taken up with writing a serious Musical, with Coenie de Villiers who is an icon in South African music, and which opens in Europe in 2007. So I would like, to have at one table, to cook for the icons of Music Theatre like Andrew Lloyd Webber & Tim Rice (EVITA) and Claude-Michel Schonberg & Alain Boublil (LES MISERABLES).

If you had an unlimited source of ingredients, what would be your idea of the ultimate dish?
I adore extravagant poultry dishes and all the amazing mushrooms and black truffles you find in France so I could certainly die and go to heaven after being served a melange of grilled French Duck Breast, seared Foie Gras, Duck Confit and wild Guinea Fowl with girolles,... and ...

What is your most memorable dish?
The time, the place and the company probably colours my memory of a lunch high up in medieval Eze at South of France, the bluest Mediterranean below. I've forgotten the name of the gorgeous red wine and the gorgeous face on the other side of the table but I remember everything else, including the first (and still most memorable) time I enjoyed Foie cooked to perfection with a Port sauce and wild mushrooms.

Do you believe in the healing power of food?
When you are young and foolish you scoff at the idea. But then you encounter a determined, formidable woman who, out of love, grows and procures macrobiotic food for a husband with cancer, and he is still alive and healthy decades later. Anyone who knows Jane Touwen's delicious food and her macrobiotic beliefs will also believe that food can heal. Most recently I encountered a cookery book by an East London heroine named Lauren Oostingh. Diagnosed with Multiple Sclerosis in 1990, she was told by doctors they could do nothing for her. She studied and researched endlessly, and created her own diet. She has been symptom-free ever since....AND lost a lot of weight ("Low Fat goes Luscious", Struik). 

What is your idea of comfort food?
Is there anything to beat Oxtail and Mashed Potato, Bobotie with Chutney, Puff Pastry Chicken Pie ...or truly delicious Thyme roasted free range Chicken? And of course, Chocolate!

When you have free time where do you like to lunch or dine?
When you have friends like Annette Kesler, Elsa van der Nest, Marlene van der Westhuizen and Topsi Venter who wants to go to a restaurant! Except that Elsa is now in Singapore and Topsi DOES have a wonderful restaurant in Franschhoek where the food is always as delicious and as different as Topsi herself! But La Colombe is always full of delights, and lately I have been going back to Au Jardin.

Which chefs do you admire?
I will always be inspired by the colours and Provencal flavours of Roger Verge. There are so many New York and London chefs beating the drums that once you only heard in France. It is great to see the fuss about Reuben in Franschhoek. Topsi in her 70's still cooking twice a day 6 days a week amazing! Frank of La Colombe has a gorgeous book out, as has Garth Stroebel. The unsung heroes at Bukkara. And many of my commis chefs popping up all over the place, and shining.

Where do you like to go on holiday and what do you like to eat? 
The Glasgows, guests of the lodge who became friends, gave me two of the best holidays of my life in their home built among the ruins of a 10th century castle at Entrechoux. And who wants to cook in Provence with their amazing breads, hams, salamis, cheeses, fruits...you just buy them and eat them. And in New York and London doing the shows even poor South Africans can eat well at modest establishments.

What three ingredients would you take with you to the ends of the earth?
Pawns from Mozambique, French Cheese, Chocolate

Recipes from A Sybaritic Weekend at Royal Malewane

SWEET CORN & CHILLI SOUP

1 onion, finely diced
4 cloves garlic, finely minced
1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
50 ml olive oil
750 ml strong vegetable stock
500 ml full cream milk
250 ml fresh cream
10 ml (2 tsp) corn flour 
1 cup corn kernels, cut from the cob
4 - 8 tbsp sweet chilli sauce – depending on the strength of the chilli sauce and your own preference
(Serves 4)

Simmer onion, garlic and ginger until very soft in olive oil. Add vegetable stock, milk and cream – bring to the boil over medium heat, stirring constantly. Just before boiling add corn flour (mixed first with a little cold water until smooth) and whisk into the soup and stir until slightly thickened. Add corn and sweet chilli sauce and heat through for about 3 to 4 minutes. 

MOZAMBICAN QUEEN PRAWNS WRAPPED WITH KATAIFI PASTRY, SERVED WITH A THAI RED CURRY SAUCE

8 queen prawns
1 packet Kataifi pastry
sea salt, to taste
milled black pepper, to taste
whites of 2 eggs, beaten lightly
200 ml thick cream
1 - 2  tsp Red Thai curry paste
corn flour, to thicken
100 g butter
(Serves 4)

Clean prawns removing the vein. Dust with sea salt and pepper. Wrap each prawn in pastry and seal the pastry using the beaten eggs whites. Place on a greased baking sheet and chill to “set”.  

To make the sauce, heat cream with Thai Red curry paste (depending on how strong the curry paste is and on your own preference).  Thicken with cornflour. 

Just before serving heat butter in a heavy based pan and sauté prawn wraps until golden brown. Heat through in a hot oven. On each serving plate, arrange a pool of sauce top with the prawns and add a few fresh herbs.

PRAWN EGGS BENEDICT ON FEATHER LIGHT SCONES 

2 prawns, shelled and cleaned, heads and tails removed
2 cups cleaned and shredded spinach
butter
4 eggs, poached until soft, keep warm.

For the sauce:  
1 cup white wine
8 chives
1 clove garlic, whole
4 peppercorns, whole
8 tbsp cream
½ tsp corn flour to thicken, mixed in a little cold water
(Serves 4)

* Pre-bake scones, omitting sugar (See recipe). 

Heat butter, over high heat, fry prawns until cooked through. Blanch spinach in a little boiling water. Remove and, cover with cold, damp paper towelling to set colour. Then squeeze out all the liquid gently. Season with a little sea salt and freshly ground black pepper and keep warm.

To make the sauce: Reduce wine in a saucepan with chives, garlic and peppercorns until only 4 tablespoons remain. Strain. To this add cream and corn flour (dissolved in 1 tablespoon cold water) and heat until the sauce thickens. Remove from heat and whisk in 50 g cubed cold butter. Keep just warm or the butter will separate – Do Not Boil!

To serve, butter 4 scone halves. Divide spinach equally between the scones, top with prawns, poached eggs and finally the sauce. 

SCONES

500 g flour
4 tbsp castor sugar (omit when making savoury scones)
4 tsp baking powder
pinch of salt
125 g butter
250 ml milk
2 large eggs
(Makes about 24 scones)  

Sift flour, castor sugar, baking powder and a pinch of salt into a bowl. Rub butter with fingertips until mixture resembles fine crumbs. Beat milk and eggs and add slowly  to the dry mixture, folding in with a wooden spoon. (Reserve a little liquid to brush scones with.) When the dough has a soft, moist consistency, turn out onto a well floured board and shape and pat gently into squares or cut out rounds with a scone cutter. Brush the tops with the reserved liquid. Place on baking sheets or on oiled foil. Bake in a moderately hot oven 200°C for 10-12 minutes, until golden. Remove and sprinkle with sugar if liked. 

IMPALA FILLET WITH FRESH ASPARAGUS SERVED WITH A BRANDY AND RAISIN SAUCE

1 kg impala fillet, trimmed
24 spears fresh asparagus
4 potatoes, peeled and cut into 4 wedges each
1 tsp fresh thyme leaves
olive oil
sea salt
black pepper
Cape Malay spices
(Serves 4)

Blanch asparagus until just soft. Place potato wedges on a baking tray, drizzle with the olive oil, sprinkle with thyme leaves and salt and freshly ground black pepper.  Roast in a hot oven until potatoes are golden brown and crisp. Season the Impala with Cape Malay spices.  Bring black ridged grilling pan to very high heat, add a little olive oil and pan grill the impala.  Keep warm.

For the sauce:
200 ml reduced meat stock, homemade
50 ml brandy
½ cup raisins
corn flour to thicken, mixed with a little cold water

Bring meat stock, brandy and raisins to the boil. Just before boiling add the corn flour and whisk well. Keep warm.

To serve, arrange potato wedges, asparagus and sliced impala on warm serving plates – pour over the sauce and garnish with fresh herbs.

GRAPES POACHED IN APPLE TEA SYRUP WITH PINEAPPLE ICE CREAM

3 cups black grapes, halved and de-seeded
2 cups water
3 Apple teabags
1 cup sugar
2 cloves
1 cinnamon stick
1 twist of orange peel

In a saucepan boil water, add teabags, sugar, cloves, cinnamon stick and twist of orange peel. Allow to stand for 5 - 8 minutes. Remove teabags. Reheat on the stove until boiling and add grapes, boil for 2 minutes only.  Remove from heat and cool.

To serve, half fill 4 martini glasses with grapes and strained aromatic tea syrup.  Add a generous scoop of Pineapple Ice Cream. 

Pineapple Ice Cream 
1 pineapple, peeled and sliced
sugar
1 tbsp freshly grated ginger 
1 vanilla pod, slit and reserve seeds 
250 ml cream

Sprinkle over 2 tbsp sugar, vanilla seeds and ginger, reserving a few and bake pineapple covered at 180ºC until softened. Remove and purée. Strain, pressing the pineapple pulp through the sieve, using a spoon, until it is all through. Whisk cream and 2 tbsp sugar together with an extra dash of vanilla seeds. Fold pineapple into thickened cream and place in a covered stainless steel or plastic container and freeze for 4-5 hours.

MIDDLE EASTERN SPICED OXTAIL WITH MASHED POTATOES SWIRLED WITH OLIVE OIL AND CHOPPED CORIANDER LEAVES

1 ½ kg oxtail
100 ml olive oil
½ bottle cabernet sauvignon wine
6 tomatoes, finely chopped
2 onions, chopped finely
1 cup each diced carrot, turnip, leek, beetroot
1 ½ cups chopped coriander leaved
10 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 tsp ground black pepper
1 tsp caraway seeds
1 tsp saffron
1 tsp ground cardamom
1 tsp ground turmeric
6 small chillies, seeds removed, finely chopped
6 tsps grated fresh ginger

In a large pot, seal oxtail in olive oil over high heat until browned.  Add wine, chopped tomatoes, onions, vegetables, garlic, ginger, chilli and the spices – continue to cook over high heat until all the vegetables are well cooked.

Turn down the heat, simmer over low heat covered, adding water when the cooking liquid becomes too dry. Simmer for 4 to 6 hours depending on how big the oxtail pieces are or until the oxtail is very tender and there is a rich sauce. 

For the mashed potatoes: Boil 8 potatoes in their jackets until soft. Peel. Mash while still hot, adding as much olive oil as you would prefer (about ½ cup) and ½ cup coriander leaves.

MANGO GINGER TART WITH PAPINO ICE CREAM

1 - 2 mangos, depending on size
phyllo pastry
1 tbsp preserved ginger chipped finely
1 cup milk
1 cup cream
3 large eggs
½ cup sugar

Line individual tart pans with phyllo pastry (2 to 3 layers, each layer should be brushed with melted butter). Fan each pastry case with thick slices of mango until the pastry cases are full. Sprinkle with preserved ginger. Lightly beat eggs with milk, cream and sugar. Pour over the mango and bake in a medium oven until set. 

Papino Ice Cream 
1 large papino, (or two small) ripe and full flavoured
sugar
1 tbsp freshly grated ginger 
1 vanilla pod, slit and reserve seeds 
250 ml cream

Purée papino and stir in 2 tbsp sugar, vanilla seeds and ginger. Whisk cream and 2 tbsp sugar together with an extra dash of vanilla seeds. Fold papino into thickened cream and place in a covered stainless steel or plastic container and freeze for 4-5 hours.

Cook's Note: Try folding in the juice and seeds of one granadilla into the whipped cream.

 

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Last modified: June 06, 2008