OUT TO DINE WITH 
RELAIS & CHÂTEAUX
LE QUARTIER FRANÇAIS 

Le Quartier Français (the French Quarter)  together with their new gorgeous addition, The Cottage, is an exclusive boutique hotel situated in the heart of The French Huguenot valley of Franschhoek, in the Cape Winelands. Sequestered in meandering fragrant gardens, award winning Le Quartier Français is a haven of tranquility where you can enjoy a complete and delightful gastronomic experience, one that draws you back again and again. Susan Huxter, the owner of Le Quartier Français and one of Franschhoek's most dedicated devotees, has over the years consistently perfected every aspect of this absolute gem. Their most recent and great accolade is receiving the Relais Gourmand, which is the haute couture award of fine dining. 

  "We pride ourselves on our reputation for warm, superb service - and the little touches that make a difference."

Showcook.com and Plaisir de Merle invited Le Quartier Français to join us in a stunning three part feature showcasing divine food, elegant wines and glorious settings, striking menus to delight your very special guests. Join us for a glimpse of one of South Africa's most coveted Relais & Châteaux tables and enjoy a taste of Executive Chef Margot Janse's memorable dishes. 

Margot Janse, one of South Africa's most brilliant and creative award winning chefs, directs the cuisine for the Le Quartier Français together with the assistance of her talented team including Chris Erasmus, Le Quartier Français' Head Chef. A team, who are constantly on the quest for perfection.

Plaisir de Merle Sauvignon Blanc 2006
Oyster and Vanilla Nage, Avocado and Prawn Mousse

Plaisir de Merle Chardonnay 2006
Wild Mushroom and Potato Lasagna

Plaisir de Merle Merlot 2004 
Terrine of Quail and Pistachio,
Pomegranate Jelly, Duck Liver Parfait
(see above)

Plaisir de Merle Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 
40 Hour Sous Vide Lamb Neck, Spiced Aubergine Purée, 
Radish Salad, Cèp Jus

A Distell showpiece, Plaisir de Merle wines are internationally acclaimed for both their whites and reds. Niel Bester, their winemaker explains, "That they not only have the benefit of great fruit from a unique terroir but they have valuable insight from Dr Paul Pontallier, MD at one of the most illustrious Chateaux in France, Margaux".

 

Showcook chats to Margot Janse in the Tasting Room, which is her particular joy and where she is able to give full reign to her abundant talents. 

Where do you think we are food wise in 2007?

In extremely exciting times! There is so much happening and South African food really has become amazing. We should all be proud of where we are compared to 15 years ago.

I have been extremely fortunate to have travelled a lot this last year and had superb meals at The Fat Duck, Apicius in Paris, D.O.M. and Olympe in Brazil, an amazing country - so beautiful and the people are equally enchanting with a contagious zest for life. There is so much produce in Brazil that I have never heard of and that I can’t compare to anything I know i.e. incredible Amazonian fruit. The Brazilian chef Alex Atala uses mainly indigenous produce and is famous for doing so. We were fortunate to eat 15 truly sumptuous courses at his restaurant D.O.M. 

In September I experienced sensational El Bulli and then ate my way around Barcelona. In November, Washington and Chicago - their culinary scene includes Alinea and Moto, which I reckon is the next big culinary thing.

The South African table, what is the direction you wish to take?

I am really passionate about the beautiful produce in this country and we are at the moment focusing more and more on using only local produce. We recently did an eight course menu matched with eight different Franschhoek wines. It is our full flavoured excellent produce that is the signature of the South African cuisine.

Are you a purist or are you pretty flexible in your approach to cooking?

Very flexible in experimenting - but not when it comes to produce. It has got to be great.

Who would be the person you would most like to cook for?

My Father, he passed away two years ago and never had the opportunity to eat my food.

If you had an unlimited source of ingredients, what would be your idea of the ultimate dish? 

I love crab and there just is none fresh here - I would love to eat a fabulous crab curry!

What is your most memorable dish? 

That I can’t answer there are so many. However at El Bulli we experienced 32 courses served at the perfect pace, with cutlery only arriving at course 17. We ate little bites with our fingers or off small measuring spoons. Spherical green olives, golden parmesan nuggets, incredibly light black sesame brioche, which resembled black sea sponge. Pine juice in a shell of melting pine. It was a very relaxed evening with the waitress often asking, "Would you like another one?"

For instance at The Fat Duck lunch was 4½ hours, starting with the liquid nitrogen trolley pulling up at the table and eating an amuse of nitro-green tea and lime mousse, which just disappears as soon as you put it in your mouth. It was an incredible lunch, including the famous snail porridge and the bacon and egg ice cream. So you see it is not that simple!

Plaisir de Merle Sauvignon Blanc 2006 served with Oyster and Vanilla Nage, Avocado and Prawn Mousse

Oyster and Vanilla Nage:
10 onions, finely diced
5 cloves garlic, minced
5 sprigs thyme, picked
4 vanilla pods, split in ½
4 tbsp butter
500 ml Noilly prat
500 ml white wine
1.25 l cream
2.5 l light fish stock
80 oysters, shucked
extra oysters
sea salt
white pepper
lemon juice
(Serves 4)

Melt butter and sweat onions with garlic, thyme and vanilla pod. Add Noilly Prat and wine and reduce right down. Add cream, fish stock and oysters. Bring to the boil, remove from heat and blend until smooth. Season with sea salt, white pepper and a squeeze of lemon juice. Strain through a fine strainer. 

Avocado and Prawn Mousse:
1 onion
1 leek
150 g prawns meat, chopped
100 g avocado, puréed
250 g milk
3 leaves gelatine, softened
250 g cream, whipped
2 tbsp chopped chives

Sweat onion and leek in a little butter until soft. Add prawns, sweat for 2 minutes. Add milk and bring to the boil. Blend until smooth. Add softened gelatine, partially set in refrigerator. Add avocado purée, then fold in whipped cream together with chives.

Serve each soup in a heated cup and add an oyster to each cup. Serve with a quenelle of Avocado and Prawn Mousse

Do you believe in the healing power of food? 

Absolutely! It is equally healing and uplifting to eat excellent quality nourishing dishes as it is for me to watch someone enjoying a dish I have made - it fills me with such pleasure.

What is your idea of comfort food?

A crisp roast chicken, fresh spears of asparagus on the braai, the first artichokes of the season quite marvellous with a little lemon butter.

Wild Mushroom and Potato Lasagna 
served with Plaisir de Merle Chardonnay 2006

Mushroom Mix:
2 kg porcini
2 kg shiitake
1 kg shimeji white
1 kg shimeji brown
1 kg chanterelles
1 kg elf
1 kg erynji

Trim all the woody stalks off the shiitake, shimeji and chanterelles. Cube the porcini, elf and erynji into equal size cubes.

Caramelised Onions:
4 onions, finely chopped
750 g unsalted butter
50 g castor sugar

Heat a large skillet/frying pan and butter. Add onions and sugar. Reduce the heat to a confit and cook for 2-3 hours until light brown, strain.

Potato Tuile/Lasagna:
900 g roasting potatoes, peeled and diced
300 g melted unsalted butter
1tbsp black truffle, chopped
1tbsp salt

To make potato lasagna sheets, blend all ingredients together until smooth. Pour 100 ml mix onto a baking sheet, place another baking sheet on top and roll out mixture to 2 mm thick. Bake at 180˚C until ¾ of the potato spread is golden brown, remove the top baking sheet and bake until evenly cooked to the centre. Continue until mixture is used up. 

Fig Glaze:
250 g dried figs, diced
500 ml marsala
250 ml port
250 ml balsamic vinegar
50 g treacle sugar

Place ingredients in a large saucepan and reduce to a glaze, strain and refrigerate.

Porcini Powder:
250 g dried porcini

Roast at 160˚C until golden brown. Blend to a fine powder in a spice grinder, pass through a tea sieve. 

Mushroom Foam:
1.5 l mushroom stock
300 g porcini diced
1 onion, diced
2 sprigs lemon thyme
1 head garlic, split
2 tsp black truffle, chopped
2 tsp black truffle oil
300 ml cream
50 ml lecithin

Caramelize porcini in a little oil and butter, add onion and garlic and sweat until soft. Strain fat off, add herbs, truffle and stock. Bring to the boil, place a lid on the saucepan and leave to infuse for 1 hour. Strain, add cream and truffle oil and refrigerate. When serving reheat and add the lecithin and emulsify with a hand blender.

Ragout Assembly (per 4 portions)
2 cups mixed mushrooms
butter
1 tbsp caramelized onions * ready prepared above
1 tsp balsamic vinegar
2 tsp mushroom stock
dash cream
½ tsp finely chopped parsley

Sauté mushrooms until tender in butter. Strain and reserve. Add caramelized onion, balsamic vinegar and reduce to a glaze. Add mushroom stock and reduce until thick, add cream and parsley, glaze with butter to add sheen. Season with sea salt.

Porcini Vinaigrette:
500 g porcini, peeled and diced
150 ml olive oil
150 g shallots, minced
2 garlic cloves, sliced
2 tsp lemon thyme, picked
200 ml marsala
200 ml balsamic vinegar
1 tsp salt

Fry porcini in olive oil until golden, reduce heat and add shallots, garlic and thyme, sweat until soft. Do not strain the oil. Add marsala and reduce to a glaze. Add  balsamic vinegar and reduce to a glaze, season. Blend until smooth and pass through a sieve.

Plaisir de Merle Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 pairs well with
40 Hour Sous Vide Lamb Neck, Spiced Aubergine Purée, 
Radish Salad and Cèp Jus

Which chefs do you admire?

The ones in my kitchen - they are amazing.

What three ingredients would you take with you to the ends of the earth?

The finest sea salt, an excellent sherry vinegar and fresh lemons.

What do think about the role of chemistry in the kitchen? 

Fabulous - there is a whole new world out there. Let's all think 'out of the box' and 'push the boundaries' a bit. Life gets way too boring if you don't. As long as it is done with the right amount of experience and knowledge.

 

The true secret of this Relais & Chateaux Auberge is the warm welcome from the extraordinary staff - the comfort of the rooms and the small unexpected luxuries.

Relais & Chateaux - Rising Chef Award to Executive Chef - Margot Janse
The Tasting Room - The World's 50 Best Restaurants 2005, 2006 and 2007 The Best Restaurant in Africa & Middle East
  Restaurant Magazine UK | Top 100 Hotels - Travel & Leisure 2007
EAT OUT Restaurant of the Year 2007
EAT OUT Service Award 2007

For reservations contact:
Le Quartier Français, 16 Huguenot Road (Franschhoek)

email
res@lqf.co.za or telephone +27 (0)21 876 2151
www.lequartier.co.za

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Photography by Franz Lauinger

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Last modified: May 08, 2008