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OUT
TO DINE WITH
RELAIS & CHÂTEAUX
LE QUARTIER FRANÇAIS
Le
Quartier Français (the French Quarter) together with their new
gorgeous addition, The Cottage, is an exclusive boutique hotel situated
in the heart of The French Huguenot valley of
Franschhoek, in the Cape Winelands. Sequestered in meandering fragrant
gardens, award winning Le Quartier Français is a haven of tranquility where you can
enjoy a complete and delightful gastronomic experience, one that
draws you back again and again. Susan Huxter, the owner of Le Quartier
Français and one of Franschhoek's most dedicated devotees, has over the
years consistently perfected every aspect of this absolute gem. Their
most recent and great accolade is receiving the Relais Gourmand, which
is the haute couture award of fine dining.
  
Showcook.com
and Plaisir de Merle invited Le Quartier Français to join us in a
stunning three part feature showcasing divine food, elegant wines and
glorious settings, striking menus to delight your very special
guests. Join us for a glimpse of one of South Africa's most coveted
Relais & Châteaux tables and enjoy a taste of Executive Chef Margot Janse's
memorable dishes.
   
Margot
Janse, one of South Africa's most brilliant and creative award winning
chefs, directs the cuisine for the Le Quartier Français together with
the assistance of her talented team including Chris Erasmus,
Le Quartier Français' Head Chef. A team, who are constantly on the quest
for perfection.
Plaisir
de Merle Sauvignon Blanc 2006
Oyster
and Vanilla Nage, Avocado and Prawn Mousse
Plaisir
de Merle Chardonnay 2006
Wild
Mushroom and Potato Lasagna
Plaisir
de Merle Merlot 2004
Terrine
of Quail and Pistachio,
Pomegranate Jelly, Duck Liver Parfait (see
above)
Plaisir
de Merle Cabernet Sauvignon 2003
40 Hour Sous
Vide Lamb Neck, Spiced Aubergine Purée,
Radish Salad, Cèp Jus
A
Distell showpiece, Plaisir
de Merle wines are internationally acclaimed for both
their whites and reds. Niel Bester, their winemaker explains,
"That they not only have the benefit of great fruit from a unique
terroir but they have valuable insight from Dr Paul Pontallier, MD at
one of the most illustrious Chateaux in France, Margaux".
Showcook
chats to Margot Janse in the Tasting Room, which is her particular joy
and where she is able to give full reign to her abundant
talents.

Where
do you think we are food wise in 2007?
In
extremely exciting times! There is so much happening and South African
food really has become amazing. We should all be proud of where
we are compared to 15 years ago.
 
I
have been extremely fortunate to have travelled a lot this last year
and had superb meals at The Fat Duck, Apicius in Paris, D.O.M. and
Olympe in Brazil, an amazing country - so beautiful and the people are
equally enchanting with a contagious zest for life. There is so much
produce in Brazil that I have never heard of and that I can’t
compare to anything I know i.e. incredible Amazonian fruit. The Brazilian
chef Alex Atala uses mainly indigenous produce and is famous for doing
so. We were fortunate to eat 15 truly sumptuous courses at his
restaurant D.O.M.
In
September I experienced sensational El Bulli and then ate my way around Barcelona. In
November, Washington and Chicago - their culinary
scene includes Alinea and Moto, which I reckon is the next big
culinary thing.
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The
South African table, what is the direction you wish to take?
I am really
passionate about the beautiful produce in this country and we are at
the moment focusing more and more on using only local produce. We
recently did an eight course menu matched with eight different Franschhoek wines. It is
our full flavoured excellent produce that is the signature of the
South African cuisine.
Are
you a purist or are you pretty flexible in your approach to cooking?
Very
flexible in experimenting - but not when it comes to produce. It has
got to be great.
Who
would be the person you would most like to cook for?
My
Father, he passed away two years ago and never had the opportunity to
eat my food.
If
you had an unlimited source of ingredients, what would be your idea of
the ultimate dish?
I
love crab and there just is none fresh here - I would love to eat a
fabulous crab curry!
What
is your most memorable dish?
That
I can’t answer there are so many. However at El Bulli we experienced
32 courses served at the perfect pace, with cutlery only arriving at
course 17. We ate little bites with our fingers or off small measuring
spoons. Spherical green olives, golden parmesan nuggets, incredibly
light black sesame brioche, which resembled black sea sponge. Pine
juice in a shell of melting pine. It was a very relaxed evening with
the waitress often asking, "Would you like another one?"
For
instance at The Fat Duck lunch was 4½ hours, starting with the liquid
nitrogen trolley pulling up at the table and eating an amuse of
nitro-green tea and lime mousse, which just disappears as soon as you
put it in your mouth. It was an incredible lunch, including the famous
snail porridge and the bacon and egg ice cream. So you see it is not
that simple!
  
Plaisir
de Merle Sauvignon Blanc 2006 served with Oyster
and Vanilla Nage, Avocado and Prawn Mousse
Oyster and
Vanilla Nage:
10
onions, finely diced
5 cloves garlic, minced
5 sprigs thyme, picked
4 vanilla pods, split in ½
4 tbsp butter
500
ml Noilly prat
500
ml white wine
1.25 l cream
2.5 l light fish stock
80 oysters, shucked
extra
oysters
sea salt
white pepper
lemon juice
(Serves 4)
Melt butter and sweat onions with garlic, thyme
and vanilla pod. Add Noilly Prat and wine and reduce right down. Add cream, fish stock and oysters.
Bring to the boil, remove from heat and blend until smooth. Season with
sea salt, white pepper and a squeeze of lemon juice.
Strain through a fine strainer.
Avocado
and Prawn Mousse:
1 onion
1 leek
150 g prawns
meat, chopped
100 g avocado, puréed
250 g milk
3
leaves gelatine,
softened
250 g cream,
whipped
2 tbsp chopped
chives
Sweat
onion and leek in a little butter until soft. Add prawns, sweat for 2
minutes. Add milk and bring to the boil. Blend until smooth. Add
softened gelatine, partially set in refrigerator. Add avocado purée, then fold
in whipped cream together with chives.
Serve
each soup in a heated cup and add an oyster to each cup. Serve with a
quenelle of Avocado and Prawn Mousse
  
Do
you believe in the healing power of food?
Absolutely!
It is equally healing and uplifting to eat excellent quality
nourishing dishes as it is for me to watch
someone enjoying a dish I have made - it fills me with such pleasure.
What
is your idea of comfort food?
A crisp roast
chicken, fresh spears of asparagus on the braai, the first artichokes of the season
quite marvellous with a little lemon butter.
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Wild
Mushroom and Potato Lasagna
served with Plaisir
de Merle Chardonnay 2006
Mushroom
Mix:
2 kg porcini
2 kg shiitake
1 kg shimeji white
1 kg shimeji brown
1 kg chanterelles
1 kg elf
1 kg erynji
Trim
all the woody stalks off the shiitake, shimeji and chanterelles. Cube
the porcini, elf and erynji into equal size cubes.
Caramelised
Onions:
4 onions,
finely chopped
750 g unsalted butter
50 g castor sugar
Heat a
large skillet/frying pan and butter. Add
onions and sugar. Reduce the heat to a confit and cook for 2-3 hours until
light brown, strain.
Potato
Tuile/Lasagna:
900 g
roasting potatoes, peeled and diced
300 g melted unsalted butter
1tbsp black truffle, chopped
1tbsp salt
To
make potato lasagna sheets, blend all ingredients together until smooth. Pour 100 ml mix onto a baking sheet, place another
baking sheet on
top and roll out mixture to 2 mm thick. Bake at
180˚C until ¾ of the potato spread is golden brown, remove the top baking
sheet and bake until evenly cooked to the centre. Continue until mixture
is used up.
Fig
Glaze:
250 g
dried figs, diced
500
ml marsala
250
ml port
250
ml balsamic
vinegar
50 g treacle sugar
Place ingredients in a large saucepan and reduce to a glaze, strain and
refrigerate.
Porcini
Powder:
250 g
dried porcini
Roast
at 160˚C until golden brown. Blend to a fine powder in a spice
grinder, pass through a tea sieve.
Mushroom
Foam:
1.5 l mushroom stock
300 g porcini diced
1 onion, diced
2
sprigs lemon
thyme
1 head garlic, split
2 tsp black
truffle, chopped
2 tsp black
truffle oil
300
ml cream
50
ml lecithin
Caramelize porcini in a little oil and butter, add onion and garlic and sweat
until soft. Strain fat off, add herbs, truffle and stock. Bring
to the boil, place a lid on the saucepan and leave to infuse for 1 hour. Strain,
add cream and truffle oil and refrigerate. When serving reheat and add the lecithin and emulsify with a hand blender.
Ragout
Assembly (per 4 portions)
2
cups mixed mushrooms
butter
1 tbsp caramelized onions * ready prepared above
1 tsp balsamic
vinegar
2 tsp mushroom
stock
dash cream
½ tsp finely chopped parsley
Sauté mushrooms until
tender in butter. Strain and reserve. Add caramelized onion, balsamic vinegar and
reduce to a glaze. Add
mushroom stock and reduce until thick, add cream and parsley, glaze with
butter to add sheen. Season with sea salt.
Porcini
Vinaigrette:
500 g
porcini, peeled and diced
150
ml olive oil
150 g shallots, minced
2 garlic cloves, sliced
2 tsp lemon
thyme, picked
200
ml marsala
200
ml balsamic
vinegar
1 tsp salt
Fry
porcini in olive oil until golden, reduce heat and add
shallots, garlic and thyme, sweat until soft. Do not
strain the oil. Add marsala and reduce to a glaze. Add balsamic vinegar and reduce to a glaze, season. Blend
until smooth and pass through a sieve.
Plaisir
de Merle Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 pairs well with
40 Hour Sous
Vide Lamb Neck, Spiced Aubergine Purée,
Radish Salad and Cèp Jus
  
Which
chefs do you admire?
The
ones in my kitchen - they are amazing.
What
three ingredients would you take with you to the ends of the earth?
The
finest sea salt, an excellent sherry vinegar and fresh lemons.
What
do think about the role of chemistry in the kitchen?
Fabulous
-
there is a whole new world out there. Let's all think 'out of the box'
and 'push the boundaries' a bit. Life gets way too boring if you don't.
As long as it is done with the right amount of experience and
knowledge.
  
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Relais & Chateaux
- Rising Chef Award to Executive Chef - Margot Janse
The Tasting Room - The World's 50 Best Restaurants 2005, 2006 and 2007
The Best Restaurant
in Africa & Middle East
Restaurant Magazine UK | Top 100 Hotels - Travel & Leisure 2007
EAT OUT Restaurant of the Year 2007
EAT OUT Service Award 2007
For reservations contact:
Le
Quartier Français, 16 Huguenot Road (Franschhoek)
email res@lqf.co.za
or telephone +27 (0)21 876 2151
www.lequartier.co.za
See
more:
Plaisir
de Merle
on
Showcook.com
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de Merle
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A
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Photography by Franz Lauinger

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