LINEN ROOM RESTAURANT

By Karen Watkins

Heaven, for Karen Watkins, is a backpack on her back, a guidebook in her hand and a credit card in her pocket! Born adventurer and inveterate traveller she introduces us to the pleasures of the Linen Room Restaurant in, off the track, Yzerfontein.

 

Come as you are, at the Linen Room Restaurant, it is food to live for!

 

Basking in year round sunshine, Yzerfontein is a mere one hour drive north of Cape Town. Closer inspection reveals that this historic seaside village is a paradise for tourists as well as locals. 

Yzerfontein was first settled by farmers who later retired here and over the past few years an eclectic mix of holiday homes have continued to be erected, decorating the bay and creeping up Pearl Bay Heights. From the top of the hill there is an unspoilt view of Table Mountain. Close offshore is Dassen Island, a small rocky outcrop with a working lighthouse and the home to communities of seabirds, pelicans and penguins – it is rumoured that there is a resident killer whale.

There is a small harbour in the bay from where recreational boat owners and commercial fishermen launch their boats in order to catch snoek, yellowtail and crayfish. Out at sea and dominating the bay is what at first resembles a shipwreck but is actually Gull Rock, a heaving mass covered with many seabirds.

 

Proclaimed an urban conservancy, Yzerfontein is infused with traditional hospitality and typifies all that is best in a beach village. Here you’ll find rest and adventure in equal proportions. Where warm, lazy days are spent whale and dolphin watching, exploring scenic drives and day tours or bird watching. But there is also plenty for the more adventurous, with watersports such as skiing, sailing, surfing and angling, as well as mountain biking and several hiking trails, including the softest white sand of 16-Mile Beach extending to the West Coast National Park. Yzerfontein enjoys a gentle Mediterranean climate with moderate summers and cooler winters.

After working up an appetite exploring the village, return to the R27 and The Linen Room restaurant, recently opened in 2005 by Irish-born chef, Ronan Boucher. Ronan came to South Africa with his family to open the evening restaurant in the existing family run farmstall building. After such a short time, The Linen Room is already proving to be a success story. 

Seven-time award winning chef, Ronan has introduced a high standard of culinary delight to the West Coast, as well as to those with an affinity for epicurean delights.

Ronan has 18 years experience serving award-winning food, both in Dublin and London, and including the 5-star Westbury and Savoy Hotels. When relocating to Cavan in 2001, Ronan accepted the position as executive head chef at the Park Hotel Virginia, owned by the Baltimore International College, where he trained, graded and finished students for the catering industry. 

During his three years working there, he won seven awards for food, which included AA rosettes for three years running, a first year certificate of merit, 2nd year silver award and third year gold award from the well known Les Routiers awards in fine food. He is now starting to build another team to his high standards, this time in South Africa. 

The menu is inspired by seasonal flavours and changes on a monthly basis to ensure freshness and creativity. We were given a warm West Coast welcome by Liezel van der Merwe, who oversees the restaurant with charm and efficiency. Once you have booked a table, it’s yours for the whole evening.

"We don’t turn our tables," says Liezel, "because at the Linen Room, eating is an experience. We want our guests to relax and savour every moment in the rustic setting, either enjoying a drink at the fireplace before they eat, or afterwards, with a freshly brewed espresso."

While perusing the menu and wine list we enjoyed melt-in-the-mouth homemade onion and fresh herb focaccia. Despite the menu being simple we were spoilt for choice. Does Carpaccio of Springbok with sauce verge tempt your taste buds, or the restaurants’ signature dish, crisp parcel of Fairview goat’s cheese? Or do you fancy a salad? There is crab and apple salad served with sweet pepper, mango and ginger dressing or smoked chicken, orange and almond salad tossed in sweet mustard and thyme dressing. 

“The rustic style of the building attracted us and compliments the style of food I like to create," says Ronan.

 

The Linen Room approach to food is based on the traditional linen making process. Using raw, simple, natural products and not adding anything that will take away from the main ingredient, but rather compliment it with subtle, sophisticated flavour. Great care is taken in sourcing the best local ingredients.

“Our meat and crayfish are A-grade export quality and organically grown herbs are picked on the premises,” says Ronan. 

The selection of wines are those mainly produced locally, located at the start of the Darling Wine Route with Ormonde Vineyards just 9 km away. Try their Sauvignon Blanc 2006 with a distinctive asparagus flavour with clean fig and passionfruit aromas. The high natural acidity ensures a dimension of fullness and depth on the palate. Cloof are also well known for their Bush vine Shiraz and Groote Post for their Pinot Noir. They are the perfect companions for the coming winter eves.

The chairs are comfortable; the tables are dressed in contemporary linen strips and generous hand crocheted napkins, topped with large goblets and cosy candles casting shadowy forms on walls decorated with original artwork. The space is open and yet intimate with the thatched roof releasing a fresh, rustic, earthy aroma.

There is a wide variety of main course options, including vegetarian and vegan. Meat dishes include sirloin steak Madagascar, tender A-grade 300g sirloin served with spring onion mash and a Madagascar green peppercorn and shallot sauce. Also in the meat line is smoked fillet steak, lightly smoked to order with caramelised figs and a red wine and blue cheese sauce. 

 

Alternatively, there’s traditional beef stroganoff smothered in creamy mushroom and Dijon mustard sauce served on a bed of savoury rice. Fish-eaters will be satisfied with a medley of seafood with a combination of stompneus, calamari and hake fillet served over rice with a white wine and mussel cream.

Meal presentation is a visual delight and the portions are generous without overwhelming. The chicken and pesto pasta is served on tagliatelli pasta, every mouthful orgasmic. The pan-seared fillet of stompneus is fresh, as are the accompanying vegetables of buttered spinach and butternut.

All main courses are cooked by Chef Ronan, who meticulously guides the culinary activity, allowing his trainee staff space to fine tune dishes and develop their full potential.

For the sweet tooth, decadent desserts beckon, such as delicious lemon meringue, iced berry parfait or decadent chocolate torte with ice cream. To finish the meal try the espresso and chocolate petit fours. 

Whether it’s a private function or a romantic dinner for two, enjoy the cosy ambience, excellent food and service, with the added bonus of easy parking. Customised menus are available on request and film crews shooting in Yzerfontein are also catered for.

The Linen Room Restaurant
Corner of R27 (West Coast Road) and the R315, 
Yzerfontein, 85 km north of Cape Town.

Tel: 022 451 2851 Fax: 022 451 2852 
Open Monday to Sunday.
Closed Wednesday evenings.
Open from 7 p.m. – 9:45 p.m.
Fully licensed. 
E-mail: doksa@iafrica.com
The Farm stall: Open from 8 a.m. - 6 p.m. 7 days a week.

 

 

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Last modified: June 06, 2008