Brigid Treloar, writer, food stylist, consultant and cooking instructor, well known in Australia and celebrated for her superb book 'The Complete Book of Sushi' introduces us to the secrets of an ancient technique, steaming. A fast, simple and incredibly healthy way to eat. Locks in flavour and locks out fat, and colours are brilliant. Brigid updates steaming, adding her inimitable touch to a style of cooking that could become addictive.

HAZELNUT AND WATERCRESS PUMPKIN SOUP

4 golden nugget butternut squash (pumpkins) 3 ½ lb (1.8kg) total
1 tablespoon butter or vegetable oil
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 small yellow (brown) onion, chopped
1 teaspoon peeled and grated fresh ginger
4 cups (32 fl oz/1 l ) chicken or vegetable stock
salt and pepper to taste
4 teaspoons plain (natural) yoghurt or sour cream
12 sprigs watercress
½ cup (2 ½ oz/75 g) hazelnuts, toasted, skinned and coarsely chopped

Partially fill a large wok or pot with water and bring to a rapid simmer. Place whole squash in oiled steamer. Place steamer on top (it should not touch water), cover, and steam until squash are just tender, 40 – 45 minutes. Remove steamer from wok before removing squash.

Place squash on a board, flatter side down (take care, as they will be hot). Cut tops off and discard. Discard seeds, and scoop flesh to within ¼ inch (6 mm) of skin, being careful not to break through. Turn squash upside down to drain, adding any drained juice to flesh.

Purée squash flesh. Cover shells with foil to keep warm. Heat butter or oil in a medium saucepan over medium heat. Cook garlic, onion and ginger until softened but not brown, 4 –5 minutes. Add puréed squash, stock, salt and pepper, and simmer for 10 minutes. Pour soup into shells and serve garnished with yoghurt, watercress and hazelnut.

CHICKEN WITH APRICOT AND ALMOND COUSCOUS STUFFING

2 cups (12 oz/375 g) instant couscous
1 ½ cups (12 fl oz/375 ml) boiling water or stock
¾ cup (6 oz/180 g) butter or vegetable oil
2 cloves garlic, crushed
2 scallions (shallots/spring onions), finely chopped
2 teaspoons cumin seeds
pinch ground saffron
¼ cup (1/3 oz/10 g) chopped fresh cilantro (coriander)
1 ¼ cups (8 oz/250 g) mixed dried raisins, dates and apricots
¼ cup (1/3 oz/10 g) chopped fresh parsley
½ cup (2 ½ oz/75 g) slivered almonds, toasted
½ cup (2 ½ oz/75 g) pine nuts, toasted
1 chicken, about 3 lb (1,5 kg)

SHERRY SAUCE:
1 cup (8 fl oz/250 ml) chicken stock
¼ cup (2 fl oz/60 ml) dry sherry or Madeira
1 1/3 tablespoons cornstarch (cornflour)
2 teaspoons water

(Serves 4-6)

Put couscous in a medium bowl and pour boiling water over it. Let stand until all water is absorbed, 4 – 5 minutes. Heat butter in a small pan. Add garlic, scallions, cumin and saffron, and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Pour over couscous, mixing well, then stir in remaining ingredients. Lightly pack stuffing into chicken, close flap and secure with a skewer or toothpick. Put chicken in a bamboo steamer or steamer basket lined with lemon or lime leaves. Place remaining couscous stuffing in oiled ramekins in the steamer. If chicken is too high, turn another steamer upside down over it and then cover with a lid or greased foil.

Partially fill a wok or pot with water and bring to a rapid simmer. Place steamer on top (it should not touch water) and steam until cooked, 1 ¼ - 1 ½ hours, or until juices run clear when skewer is inserted in thigh. Let ramekins stand for 2 minutes before unmolding and serve as an accompaniment to chicken. Chicken can be browned under broiler (grill) if desired, before serving with sherry sauce.

To make sherry sauce: Heat stock and sherry in a small saucepan. Mix cornstarch and water, then add 1 tablespoon hot stock and blend to a paste. Stir paste into remaining stock and cook, stirring, until thick. 

To toast pine nuts: Place nuts under a broiler (grill) or in a dry frying pan over medium heat and cook, stirring, until they just change color, 3 – 4 minutes. Be careful not to burn them.

CHILI TOMATO MEATBALLS WITH UDON NOODLES

1 lb (500 g) ground (minced) beef
1 large onion, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, crushed
2 ½ tablespoons tomato paste
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
2 tablespoons fresh parsley
1 small red chili, seeded and finely chopped
1 egg, lightly beaten
salt and freshly ground pepper
25 oz (780 g) fresh udon noodles
¼ teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons olive oil
light tomato sauce
1 small red chili, seeded and finely chopped, optional
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
(Serves 4)

LIGHT TOMATO SAUCE:
3 large tomatoes, peeled and coarsely chopped
1 tablespoon olive oil
2 scallions (shallots/spring onions), chopped
1 clove garlic, crushed
2 teaspoons soy sauce
1 tablespoon lemon juice
2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
1 tablespoon chopped thyme
salt and cracked black pepper to taste

Combine beef, onion, garlic, tomato paste, Worcestershire sauce, parsley, chili, egg, salt and pepper in a medium bowl, mixing well. Line a large bamboo steamer or steamer basket with parchment (baking) paper. With wet hands, take about 1 tablespoon mixture at a time and shape into small balls. Place a single layer of meatballs in steamer. 

Partially fill a pot or wok with water and bring to a rapid simmer. Place steamer on top (it should not touch water), cover, and steam until meatballs are cooked, 8 – 10 minutes. Add noodles and salt to water for the last 6 minutes of cooking, or until just tender. 

Drain noodles and toss with olive oil to keep from sticking. While meatballs are cooking, heat tomato sauce in a small saucepan, adding chili if desired. Divide noodles among 4 plates and serve topped with meatballs and sauce and sprinkled with parsley.

To make light tomato sauce: Heat oil in a medium saucepan over medium-low heat. Add scallions and garlic and cook until soft but not brown, about 5 minutes. Reduce heat, stir in remaining ingredients, cover, and cook until thick. About 10 minutes. If a thinner sauce is preferred, add a little chicken stock. Spoon tomato sauce over chicken, sprinkle with sprigs of lemon thyme and serve with steamed rice or baby new potatoes.

CALAMARI SALAD WITH LIME AND CHILI DRESSING

1 lb (500 g) cleaned calamari tubes, sliced ½ inch (12 mm) thick
2 ½ tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 small red chili, seeded and chopped
1 small red chili, finely chopped
2 tablespoons fish sauce
2 ½ tablespoons fresh lime juice
1 tablespoon packed light palm or brown sugar
½ teaspoon Asian sesame oil
2 scallions (shallots/spring onions), finely chopped
1 English (hothouse) cucumber, seeded and chopped
¼ cup (1/3 oz/10 g) chopped fresh cilantro (fresh coriander)
¼ cup (1/3 oz/10 g) chopped fresh mint
3 cups (3 oz/90 g) mixed green salad leaves
1 – 2 tablespoons fried garlic chips

Place calamari in a bowl with lemon juice, garlic and seeded and chopped chili, and marinate for 30 minutes. Drain. Place calamari in a bamboo steamer or steamer basket.

Partially fill a wok or pot with water and bring to a rapid simmer. Place steamer over water (it should not touch water), cover and steam until calamari is opaque 3 – 4 minutes. Remove from steamer and let cool.  

Combine finely chopped shell fish sauce, lime juice, palm sugar and sesame oil in a small bowl, stirring until sugar dissolves. Combine calamari, scallions, cucumber cilantro and mint and add chilli mixture. Toss to mix well. Arrange on salad leaves, garnished with fried garlic chips. 

To make garlic chips: In a small saucepan oven medium heat, heat 1 cup (8 fl oz/250 ml) vegetable oil; and fry 10 – 15 thinly sliced cloves garlic until golden brown and crisp 2 –3 minutes. Be careful not to burn. These can be made ahead and stored in an airtight container. Use garlic oil for frying or seasoning other dishes. 

GRAND MARNIER CRÈME CARAMELS

1/3 cup (2 ½ oz/75 g) granulated sugar
3 tablespoons water
4 eggs
2 tablespoons superfine (caster) sugar
2 ½ cups (20 fl oz/625 ml) milk
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 tablespoon Grand Marnier
1 teaspoon grated orange zest
(Serves 6)

Combine granulated sugar and 3 tablespoons water in a small saucepan and melt sugar over low heat, stirring constantly. Increase heat and boil until mixture caramelises to a golden brown colour, 4 – 5 minutes. Be careful not to let it burn. Immediately pour into 6 small ramekins 8 oz (250 ml) in capacity, while tipping each dish to cover sides with caramel. Set aside.

In a bowl, beat eggs and superfine sugar together until well combined. Stir in milk, vanilla, Grand Marnier and zest. Pour custard into ramekins and cover each with oiled aluminum foil or a double layer of plastic wrap. Put ramekins in two stacked bamboo steamers or two tiered steamer basket.

Partially fill a 12 inch (30 cm) wok or pot with water and bring to a rapid simmer. Place steamer over water, cover and steam until custard has set. About 20 minutes (an inserted skewer will come out clean when custard is cooked). Switch baskets halfway through for even cooking. Remove from steamer and cool to room temperature. Cover each dish with a fresh sheet of plastic wrap and refrigerate until required. 

To serve, place a plate over each custard and invert. Serve with fresh berries.

Variation: Substitute lemon or lime rind for orange rind.

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THE COMPLETE BOOK OF SUSHI On Showcook.com! 
By Hideo Dekura, Brigid Treloar, Ryuichi Yoshii