SOFT FRUITS OF SUMMER
by Oded Schwartz 

 

"Summer brings out the flavour of soft fruits," says Oded. Although they are now available almost throughout the year, they do not have the same flavour. Growing in poly-tunnels those fruits are too pampered, protected and grown mainly for their size and shelf life. Even when sweet, they tend to be watery and lack the heady aroma of the true summer berry.

In summer, my kitchen is a hive of activity – the whole house is full of the wonderful aromas of simmering jams, jellies and preserves. My larder is filled with row upon row of colourful jars, which I use as a base or flavouring to many dishes throughout the year.


Jams and fruit pastes are used to fill pies, tarts and cakes. Perfumed whole fruit confitures and preserves – tempting to eat straight from the jar accompanied by a glass of cold water, bitter coffee or incorporated with fresh whipped cream to make delicious, instant ice creams or mousses. Make intensely flavoured syrups to flavour drinks, serve them with ice cream and to complete desserts, to flavour vinegars for salad dressings or to add a lift and zest to stews and first courses. But my pride and joy in summer is to make my own liqueurs. This gives me a tremendous sense of achievement – I can control the sweetness and the intensity of the flavour. The results are magnificent – refreshing, crystal clear, intensely coloured nectars with a heavenly aroma, an ideal ending to any occasion.

Always choose the finest fruit. Remove any damaged or mouldy fruit – be very vigilant as some mould spores can survive the cooking process.  For jams and confitures choose fruit, which is firm and just ripe. Ripening reduces the pectin content of the fruit, which adversely affects setting of the jams and jellies. 
Wash the fruit as little as possible. If washing is necessary, drain thoroughly.

Preparing these delicious specialities is time consuming and can be tedious. So do as I do. Invite some friends over, supply them with good wine and aprons and enjoy spending a few long, mellow summer evenings preparing these store-cupboard treasures for use throughout the year. It’s great fun and well worth it!

AUNTIE YEVA'S STRAWBERRY CONFITURE 

This recipe is a pure heaven, whole strawberries preserved in a soft, perfumed jelly. It is based on my memory of Aunt Yeva’s strawberry confiture, which she always served with tea. You spooned a little confiture into your mouth; hold the strawberry with your front teeth and drink through it – to sweeten the tea.

The recipe cleverly uses the dehydrating qualities of the vodka to preserve the shape of the fruit.

Use small, highly perfumed cultivated strawberries or, if you are fortunate enough to find them - wild strawberries, their perfume is heady and texture is sublime.

Strawberries have low pectin content and therefore the confiture will be soft set.

1 kg small strawberries
750 g sugar juice of 1 lemon
250 ml Vodka (40%)
(Makes about 1.25 kg)

Layer the sugar and strawberries in a large glass bowl, starting and finishing with a layer of sugar. Pour over the Vodka and lemon juice, cover with a clean cloth and leave to stand over night.

Next day, drain the liquid into the preserving pan. Bring to the boil and boil rapidly for a few minutes or until it reaches 116°C on the sugar thermometer. 

Add the strawberries and boil for 5-7 minutes or until a soft set is achieved (106°C on the sugar thermometer.)

Remove from the heat and leave the fruit to settle to rest for a few minutes. Skim well. Ladle into hot sterilised jars, then seal.

RASPBERRY JAM 

The same recipe can be used for many other fruit, making it without the addition of water makes an intensely flavoured, perfumed jam. 

1kg raspberries  
1kg sugar
Juice of 1 lemon
(Makes about 1.6 kg)

Layer the raspberry and sugar in the preserving pan. Cover with a cloth and leave overnight.

The next day, add the lemon juice to the pan. Bring slowly to the boil, stirring frequently until the sugar has dissolved. Increase the heat and boil rapidly for 25 -25 minutes or until the setting point is reached. Stir constantly towards the end of cooking to prevent it from sticking. If wished, pass half of the jam through a sieve to reduce the seed content, then return to the boil for about 5 minutes.

Remove the pan from the heat and leave the jam to settle for a few minutes. Ladle into hot sterile jars, then seal. 

RASPBERRY JELLY 

500 g cooking apples
1 kg raspberries
500 ml water
juice of 1 lemon
sugar
(Makes about 2 kg)

Remove the cores from the apples and set aside. Chop the apples coarsely, then put in the food processor with the raspberries and process until finely chopped.

Put the chopped fruit in the preserving pan with the apple cores and water. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat and simmer the fruit for 20-30 minutes or until the fruit is soft and pulpy.

Pour the fruit and liquid into a sterilised jelly beg. Leave to drain for 3-4 hours, or until it stops dripping. Do not be tempted to squeeze the jelly beg or your jelly will be cloudy. Measure the juice and allow each 500 g of sugar to every 500 ml of liquid. 

Heat gently, stirring frequently until the sugar has dissolved. Bring to a rapid boil, then reduce the heat and skim well. Return to a rapid boil for 10 minutes or until setting point is reached.  

Pour the liquid jelly into hot, sterilized jars and seal.

RASPBERRY SYRUP 

Making syrup is a good way to use up soft fruits that are too ripe for jams or jellies.  Any ripe, juicy berry can be prepared in the same way, but discard any that are bruised or mouldy.

1 kg ripe raspberries
75 ml water 
400 g (13 oz) sugar to each 500 ml (17 fl oz) juice 
(makes about 750 ml)

Put the berries and water in a glazed bowl and mash well. Set over a pan of simmering water for 1hour, mashing the fruit occasionally.

Pour into a sterilised jelly bag. Leave to drip until for a few hours or until it stopped dripping.  Squeeze the jelly bag to extract as much liquid as possible. Filter the juice through a double layer of muslin or cheesecloth. 

Measure the juice and allow 400 g of sugar for every 500 ml of juice. Put in a pan and bring slowly to the boil, stirring constantly until the sugar has dissolved. Skim off the froth and boil for 4-5 minutes. Do not over cook or the syrup will start to set.

Pour into hot sterilised bottle and crock. Leave to cool, then seal with hot wax. Store in a cool dark place.

CASIS - BLACKCURRANT LIQUEUR 

Although this recipe calls for blackcurrant the same proportions and methods can be used with many other soft fruit. I make raspberry liqueur based on vodka instead of brandy and strawberry liqueur with vanilla that is based on Eau de Vie.

1kg blackcurrants
500 ml brandy
350 - 500 g sugar
(makes about 1l)

Place the fruit in a sterilized jar and mash them well with a potato masher.

Pour over the brandy, than cover the jar tightly. Leave in a cool dark place for about 1 month, shaking the jar from time to time. Line a sieve with a double layer of sterilized muslin or cheesecloth and place over a large bowl. Pour in the fruit and the liquid and leave for a few hours or until it stopped dripping. Filter the juice again through a double layer of muslin and return to the jar. 

Add the sugar to taste (I prefer the smaller amount), then seal. Leave in a cool dark place for about 3 weeks, shaking the jar every few days, until the sugar has dissolved and the liquid is clear.

Filter the liquid again if necessary. Pour into sterilized bottles and seal. The liqueur can be used immediately but improves with keeping.

 

For details on Oded Schwartz, food historian and author of the highly acclaimed book 'Preserving', see FLAVOURS OF CITRUS where he shares his bittersweet bounty of winter's treasured fruits with SHOWCOOK 
Oded’s kitchen is almost ready and he is planning courses in pickling and preserving. For more information, please contact Oded at
preserving@mweb.co.za

 

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Last modified: June 06, 2008