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FLAVOURS
OF TERROIR
Michael Broughton
sets a fine table at Terroir on the exquisite estate Kleine
Zalze, Stellenbosch.
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A
Tale of Three Chefs...
Good Taste
Magazine and Showcook.com invite you to
enjoy a glorious win at Terroir! See the August issue of Good Taste for
details and how you can enter. At
Terroir you will enjoy Lomond wines, a wine that exemplifies
harmonious balance and take home a gift pack of this splendid
wine in addition you will receive a special hamper of
Australia's Gloria Jean’s Coffees and accessories.
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Since
opening Terroir
in
the heart of the winelands, on the stunning estate Kleine Zalze, Terroir has become one of the most
sought after destinations for food lovers in the country, placing
Stellenbosch prominently on the culinary map.
A mecca for both local and
international guests.
Terroir has
the simple rustic feel of an delightful auberge in the French
countryside, flowing onto a shady terrace surrounded by towering
trees and a gentle meandering garden, which melds into fairways.
Pathways are scented with lavender in soft lilacs, purples, greys
and greens, a palette of colours that soothe the soul very much
a reflection of the warm spirit at Kleine Zalze, which has just
joyously celebrated it's 10th anneversary.
Success
has brought a string of awards over the years, not least two consecutive
Eat Out Johnny Walker ‘Top 10 Restaurants’ awards and being named the
Eat Out Johnny Walker ‘Restaurant of the Year’ in 2006.
Terroir’s
chalkboard menu of bold, classically inspired dishes reflects the bounty of the seasons.
Where possible, Michael prefers to use
locally grown produce and there is a constant search for exceptional
ingredients, essential to his ‘deceptively simple’ style of
cooking that has an intensity of flavour.
Culinary insights with
Michael Broughton!
  
Were
do you think we are food wise in 2007?
I
think SA chefs are aware of what is happening globally but are still a
bit behind. There is still too much bad food being passed as good. Too
much emphasis on what food looks like and not enough on what it tastes
like and settling for second rate produce.
We are getting to grips with ingredients these days though, which
help us to construct new dishes and hopefully enable us to catch up to the
rest of the world. The cost of the raw ingredients these days is also
alarming. We need more organic and consistent suppliers to restaurants
as well as more consistency from growers.
If we get this part right, we can really get to grips with “fresh
produce” and improve our repertoire.
"The
crisp and lively Lomond Sugarbush Sauvignon Blanc 2005 contrasts well,"
explains Michael, "with the subtle Goat's Cheese
on Fresh Figs, a seasonal delicacy, finished with a soupçon of
Balsamic and Port reduction."
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The
South African table, what is the direction you wish to take?
I
still like the path of intensifying flavours, simplicity and good
combinations. At Terroir we are always confiting tomatoes, curing fish,
reducing sauces etc. to enhance flavours. I try to keep things to
three to four flavours on the plate. At all times keep the flavours
identifiable and the sauces alive and fresh.
I am
still a Francophile in my approach to flavours and methodology and will
always use the classic French basics. I enjoy using as much local produce as
possible from Stellenbosch and nearby.
Are
you a purist or are you pretty flexible in your approach to cooking?
Fortunately I am not very flexible in my approach to cooking, if I were I
would end up with every chef in the kitchen giving me their version of the menu, which would be disastrous.

Who
would be the person you would most like to cook for?
I
love cooking for my wife
Jane, she remains my best and most honest critic. She tastes many of the
new dishes at Terroir and has
an educated and sensitive palate.
OK, to
really answer the question... I would like to cook for Gordon Ramsay
again. I did in 2000 and had a decent conversation with him
afterwards. I think people have the wrong impression of him, he is a
down to earth guy who knows what he wants. Sure, he has a temper, which
chef worth his salt hasn’t? It’s about being precise in the kitchen
and wanting to produce the best food consistently, which means kitchen
staff have to deliver consistently.
  
Lomond Pincushion Sauvignon Blanc 2005, powerfully flavoured and
full-bodied, a very elegant wine, perfect partner for the
delicious Langoustine Risotto with delicate creamy
pea and truffle purée.
If
you had an unlimited source of ingredients, what would be your idea of
the ultimate dish?
It
would be a 'ragout' of Langoustines and Crayfish with Truffle Veloute
(sauce made from truffles, chicken stock, foie gras, dash of cream
and sharpened with lemon and Madiera). I would gently pan fry the fish in
Langoustine butter (made from the langoustine heads), present them on a plate
drizzled with the shellfish butter, Nantua sauce (made from the crayfish
heads), Truffle Veloute and garnished with fresh Macaroni, Peit Pois and
shavings of fresh White Truffle (and perhaps a few baby leeks too)!
   
Lomond Conebush Syrah 2005, a lovely all-rounder wine from the
southern tip of Africa, a fitting match to Michael Broughton's
premier dish Sous Vide Lamb, which he is very proud of.
Spiced,
vacuum packed and immersed in water for 18 hours at a constant 62ºC,
this results in lamb that is as velvety as butter served with a
basil butter with sundried tomatoes, placed on a base of aubergine,
spiced with the famous Moroccan unique blend of spices, Ras El
Hanout and a sweet onion puree.
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What
is your most memorable dish?
My
most memorable meal was a succession of dishes. I ordered the seven course
degustation menu at the three Michelin Starred Chez Nico at 90 Park Lane,
London. However, two tastes and textures still linger on my tongue: The
Braised Shin of Dutch Milk Fed Veal in a shiny robe of its braising juices
with a Wholegrain Mustard sauce and believe it or not, a perfect ball of
Sorbet of Pink Grapefruit, which was served in a frosted (frozen) brandy
glass splashed with a generous shot of Noilly Prat. UNFORGETTABLE!!!!
 
Linger
on the terrace with a richly delicious chocolate sundae
layered with silky coffee ice
cream and a soupçon of melting white chocolate. Finish with a
steaming espresso or enjoy a piping hot capuccino dusted
with cocoa.
Do
you believe in the healing power of food?
Yes,
I am a believer in the healing power of food. Food can calm the senses,
feed the senses, arouse the
senses, clean the palate, cleanse the body, fill the belly! It really is
limitless in its ability to address the body on a cellular level. Well
prepared food, made with love and care, has been scientifically
proven to be healing to the body.
What
is your idea of comfort food?
My
idea of comfort food is a 'one pot wonder' cooked and eaten at home
in winter with my wife and two children. I braise the lamb, Jane peels and
chops tons of vegetables (organic where possible), my daughter Sarah (now
almost 4yrs old) peels the garlic expertly and my son Elijah just loves
being with us at the stove (oh no, not another chef!!). Everything is put
into the Le Creuset (great investment) with stock, herbs and homemade
tomato concasse (which we make in bucket loads and freeze for use in many
dishes we love), and left to gently braise in the oven for an hour or two,
this is splashed onto some pasta and enjoyed with a glass of red wine…
now what more can be more satisfying than that?
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Which
chefs do you admire?
I
admire chefs who are firstly sauciers (and then famous). I don’t
believe a chef can really be called a chef if he can't make magic with
sauces. It signifies an intuitiveness and sensitivity to the art of
cooking- a praise to the art of cooking!
What
three ingredients would you take with you to the ends of the earth?
Good
olive oil, sweet tomatoes and garlic.
  

For more information on Kleine Zalze
Estate
Contact Kleine Zalze on +27 (21) 880 0717; or email
Ross Sleet, Sales and Marketing Manager: rsleet@kleinezalze.co.za
Visit www.kleinezalze.co.za
for additional information
including directions and opening hours.
Showcook
introduces Gloria Jean's Coffees
Celebrated
in Australia, gorgeous Gloria Jean’s Coffees have arrived in South
Africa and are a proud part of the Rainforest Alliance, which
support best farming practices and shares goals in conserving
ecosystems.
Enjoy
and taste their superb blends and flavoured coffees, sipping them in
the most relaxed surroundings in delightful coffee shops in Gauteng
and soon to be enjoyed around the South Africa. These coffees are
the ultimate taste experiences described as winey, earthy, sweet,
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A
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choose Gloria Jean's Coffees and wake up to the aroma of real coffee.
Read the in-depth story of Gloria
Jean's Coffees
on Showcook.
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more on Showcook.com!
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Photography by Franz Lauinger

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