FLAVOURS OF TERROIR

Michael Broughton sets a fine table at Terroir on the exquisite estate Kleine Zalze, Stellenbosch.

 

 

A Tale of Three Chefs... 

Good Taste Magazine and Showcook.com invite you to enjoy a glorious win at Terroir! See the August issue of Good Taste for details and how you can enter. At Terroir you will enjoy Lomond wines, a wine that exemplifies harmonious balance and take home a gift pack of this splendid wine in addition you will receive a special hamper of Australia's Gloria Jean’s Coffees and accessories. 

Since opening Terroir in the heart of the winelands, on the stunning estate Kleine Zalze, Terroir has become one of the most sought after destinations for food lovers in the country, placing Stellenbosch prominently on the culinary map. 

A mecca for both local and international guests.  

Terroir has the simple rustic feel of an delightful auberge in the French countryside, flowing onto a shady terrace surrounded by towering trees and a gentle meandering garden, which melds into fairways. Pathways are scented with lavender in soft lilacs, purples, greys and greens, a palette of colours that soothe the soul very much a reflection of the warm spirit at Kleine Zalze, which has just joyously celebrated it's 10th anneversary. 

Success has brought a string of awards over the years, not least two consecutive Eat Out Johnny Walker ‘Top 10 Restaurants’ awards and being named the Eat Out Johnny Walker ‘Restaurant of the Year’ in 2006.

Terroir’s chalkboard menu of bold, classically inspired dishes reflects the bounty of the seasons. Where possible, Michael prefers to use locally grown produce and there is a constant search for  exceptional ingredients, essential to his ‘deceptively simple’ style of cooking that has an intensity of flavour. 


Culinary insights with Michael Broughton!

Were do you think we are food wise in 2007? 

I think SA chefs are aware of what is happening globally but are still a bit behind. There is still too much bad food being passed as good. Too much emphasis on what food looks like and not enough on what it tastes like and settling for second rate produce.

We are getting to grips with ingredients these days though, which help us to construct new dishes and hopefully enable us to catch up to the rest of the world. The cost of the raw ingredients these days is also alarming. We need more organic and consistent suppliers to restaurants as well as more consistency from growers. If we get this part right, we can really get to grips with “fresh produce” and improve our repertoire.

"The crisp and lively Lomond Sugarbush Sauvignon Blanc 2005 contrasts well," explains Michael, "with the subtle Goat's Cheese on Fresh Figs, a seasonal delicacy, finished with a soupçon of Balsamic and Port reduction."

The South African table, what is the direction you wish to take? 

I still like the path of intensifying flavours, simplicity and good combinations. At Terroir we are always confiting tomatoes, curing fish, reducing sauces etc. to enhance flavours. I try to keep things to three to four flavours on the plate. At all times keep the flavours identifiable and the sauces alive and fresh.

I am still a Francophile in my approach to flavours and methodology and will always use the classic French basics. I enjoy using as much local produce as possible from Stellenbosch and nearby.

Are you a purist or are you pretty flexible in your approach to cooking? 

Fortunately I am not very flexible in my approach to cooking, if I were I would end up with every chef in the kitchen giving me their version of the menu, which would be disastrous.

Who would be the person you would most like to cook for? 

I love cooking for  my wife Jane, she remains my best and most honest critic. She tastes many of the new dishes at Terroir  and has an educated and sensitive palate.

OK, to really answer the question... I would like to cook for Gordon Ramsay again. I did in 2000 and had a decent conversation with him afterwards. I think people have the wrong impression of him, he is a down to earth guy who knows what he wants. Sure, he has a temper, which chef worth his salt hasn’t? It’s about being precise in the kitchen and wanting to produce the best food consistently, which means kitchen staff have to deliver consistently.

 

Lomond Pincushion Sauvignon Blanc 2005, powerfully flavoured and full-bodied, a very elegant wine, perfect partner for the delicious Langoustine Risotto with delicate creamy pea and truffle purée.

If you had an unlimited source of ingredients, what would be your idea of the ultimate dish? 

It would be a 'ragout' of Langoustines and Crayfish with Truffle Veloute (sauce made from truffles, chicken stock, foie gras, dash of cream and sharpened with lemon and Madiera). I would gently pan fry the fish in Langoustine butter (made from the langoustine heads), present them on a plate drizzled with the shellfish butter, Nantua sauce (made from the crayfish heads), Truffle Veloute and garnished with fresh Macaroni, Peit Pois and shavings of fresh White Truffle (and perhaps a few baby leeks too)!

Lomond Conebush Syrah 2005, a lovely all-rounder wine from the southern tip of Africa, a fitting match to Michael Broughton's premier dish Sous Vide Lamb, which he is very proud of.

Spiced, vacuum packed and immersed in water for 18 hours at a constant 62ºC, this results in lamb that is as velvety as butter served with a basil butter with sundried tomatoes, placed on a base of aubergine, spiced with the famous Moroccan unique blend of spices, Ras El Hanout and a sweet onion puree.

What is your most memorable dish? 

My most memorable meal was a succession of dishes. I ordered the seven course degustation menu at the three Michelin Starred Chez Nico at 90 Park Lane, London. However, two tastes and textures still linger on my tongue: The Braised Shin of Dutch Milk Fed Veal in a shiny robe of its braising juices with a Wholegrain Mustard sauce and believe it or not, a perfect ball of Sorbet of Pink Grapefruit, which was served in a frosted (frozen) brandy glass splashed with a generous shot of Noilly Prat. UNFORGETTABLE!!!!

 

Linger on the terrace with a richly delicious chocolate sundae layered with silky coffee ice cream and a soupçon of melting white chocolate. Finish with a steaming espresso or enjoy a piping hot capuccino dusted with  cocoa.

Do you believe in the healing power of food? 

Yes, I am a believer in the healing power of food. Food can calm the senses, feed  the senses, arouse the senses, clean the palate, cleanse the body, fill the belly! It really is limitless in its ability to address the body on a cellular level. Well prepared food, made with love and care, has been scientifically proven to be healing to the body.

What is your idea of comfort food? 

My idea of comfort food is a 'one pot wonder' cooked and eaten at home in winter with my wife and two children. I braise the lamb, Jane peels and chops tons of vegetables (organic where possible), my daughter Sarah (now almost 4yrs old) peels the garlic expertly and my son Elijah just loves being with us at the stove (oh no, not another chef!!). Everything is put into the Le Creuset (great investment) with stock, herbs and homemade tomato concasse (which we make in bucket loads and freeze for use in many dishes we love), and left to gently braise in the oven for an hour or two, this is splashed onto some pasta and enjoyed with a glass of red wine… now what more can be more satisfying than that?

Which chefs do you admire? 

I admire chefs who are firstly sauciers (and then famous). I don’t believe a chef can really be called a chef if he can't make magic with sauces. It signifies an intuitiveness and sensitivity to the art of cooking- a praise to the art of cooking!

What three ingredients would you take with you to the ends of the earth? 

Good olive oil, sweet tomatoes and garlic.

For more information on Kleine Zalze Estate 
Contact Kleine Zalze on +27 (21) 880 0717; or email Ross Sleet, Sales and Marketing Manager:
rsleet@kleinezalze.co.za 
Visit
www.kleinezalze.co.za  
for additional information including directions and opening hours. 

 

Showcook introduces Gloria Jean's Coffees

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Enjoy and taste their superb blends and flavoured coffees, sipping them in the most relaxed surroundings in delightful coffee shops in Gauteng and soon to be enjoyed around the South Africa. These coffees are the ultimate taste experiences described as winey, earthy, sweet, nutty, smoky or spicy.

A choice of coffees, beans and grounds that range from straight or single varieties to full bodied and complex blends. For that gorgeous cup of coffee, aromatic and rich with deep flavour choose Gloria Jean's Coffees and wake up to the aroma of real coffee. Read the in-depth story of Gloria Jean's Coffees on Showcook.


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Photography by Franz Lauinger

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