(Above
Left) Lalique Diamond Spray Bbrooch
(Above Right) Wade Necklace - Photo: Richard Pierce
The
show celebrates Tiffany’s sustained pursuit of excellence, outstanding
craftsmanship and superb design that have beguiled its clients for over
150 years. It brings together over 200 objects created by this
internationally famous American firm from its inception in 1837 when it
started out modestly as a ‘Fancy Goods’ store on Broadway and from
where it quickly rose to international fame – its jewellery winning
medals and stunning the world at the great international exhibitions of
the 19th century.
Success
it is said was rooted in the entrepreneurial genius of the company’s
founder Charles Lewis Tiffany (1812-1902) who was nicknamed the ‘King of
Diamonds’ and diamonds remain at the heart of the Tiffany business.
Perhaps one of the most spectacular examples of the show is the Tiffany
Yellow Diamond Brooch 128.54 carats– the finest yellow diamond known and
cut under Tiffany’s direction in 1878. Set by the famous French designer
Jean Schlumberger it is a genius of design. This
arresting piece will certainly remain in ones memory as a one off
sensation.
(Right)
But
for many visitors the most remarkable pieces may be found in the section
entitled nature.
At this time exotic plants were being discovered in the tropics and as
Tiffany sought inspiration from the natural world, the enamelled and
jewelled orchid brooches created by Tiffany’s great and brilliant
designer G Paulding Farnham made their debut on the world stage.
The
technical virtuosity of these 24 pieces is quite breathtaking and the
botanical accuracy they achieved created a sensation winning Tiffany’s
critical acclaim at the Paris Exposition of 1889.
However,
after World War 1 the Company moved confidently into the new abstract
geometric style of Art Deco.
Proud of their American aesthetic and
unashamedly patriotic they produced the American Flag brooch – a
rippling representation of the stars and stripes, made of platinum, gold,
rubies, sapphires and diamonds. During World War 11 they continued to
cater for a wide range of customers providing glamorous accessories such
as parasols, purses and scent bottles for the well dressed woman.
(Right)
American Flag Brooch - Photo: Jan van Pak
From
the 1950’s onwards, they once again boldly backed new designers and the
American designer Donald Claftlin created humorous pieces such as the
dragon brooch.
While the wonderfully inventive French designer Jean
Schlumberger established his salon at Tiffany’s in 1956 and started
making cigarette cases, powder cases, bracelet watches and evening bags
turning functional items into beautiful works of art.
(Left) Claflin Dragon
Brooch
By
1970’s when fashion was once more on the move, Tiffany turned to
designers Elsa Peretti and Paloma Picasso because their work captured the
stylish informality that patrons now looked for in their jewellery. Peretti’s sleek and minimal elegance in silver and gold such as
her trademark Diamonds by the Yard and ‘bone’ cuff bracelet have
become internationally recognised. Since the 1980’s however, Picasso’s
love of colour and bold forms have brought modern expression to
Tiffany’s lasting fascination with gemstones.
(Above) Collar of
Fire Opals and Tourmalines - Photo: Kenru Izu
This
beautifully mounted exhibition runs until 7th January 2007
(recently extended because of popular demand) and is well worth a visit. Open
daily10h00 - 18h00
Somerset House Strand
or Victoria
Embankment.
Nearest
underground station: Temple
or Embankment
(Above) Emerald and
Diamond Brooch Empress Eugenie
With
Special thanks to Sue Bond Public Relations.
Photography curtesy Tiffany & Co. unless otherwise stated.
