According
to a new report released by the American market research company, Packaged
Facts, the flavors of India are among the biggest ingredient trends this
year. But, this bit of information is nothing new to Vikram Vij, owner of
the internationally acclaimed restaurant, Vij’s, in Vancouver, Canada.
Hungry diners with a taste for the flavors of Vikram’s homeland, India,
have been flocking to his restaurant since 1994.
Scents
of masalas and aromatic herbs waft from the kitchen, and plates laden with
offerings far more diverse than standard curries and kormas appear in the
dining room. Vij’s cuisine
is far from boilerplate tandoori- or curry-house fare.
The flavors are pure Indian, but the cooking style and
presentations are thoroughly modern.
Among
Vij’s most popular menu items are yellow mustard-infused, frenched lamb
chop “popsicles” seared on the grill and napped with a garlicky,
cream-based curry sauce. Goat,
the most popular red meat in India, appears on Vij’s menu stewed in a
heady sauce spiced with cinnamon, garlic, cloves, and cayenne pepper.
Sustainable seafood offerings vary from grilled sablefish in a
delicate tomato-yogurt sauce to lightly breaded, pan-seared Pacific
halibut in a coconut curry sauce redolent of fenugreek and black mustard.
By
focusing on fresh vegetables, a liberal use of flavorful spices and
condiments, and a limited consumption of dairy products and meats, Indian
dining styles can contribute to healthy eating, and a meal at Vij’s is
no exception. Fresh vegetables are carefully prepared to retain their prized
texture. Chiles, ginger and
garlic, all known for their health benefits, are staples in the kitchen.
Lycopene-rich tomatoes are crucial to Vij’s larder, as they
form the base for the curry masalas when added to the sauté pan while
toasting the spices to help keep them from burning.
Dairy staples include a mild whole-milk cheese called paneer, which
is eaten raw, cooked in curries or marinated and grilled; plain yogurt;
and small quantities of clarified butter called ghee, used as a fat for
sautéing or folded into sauces to add richness.
Typically,
an Indian meal consists of a meat dish accompanied by a vegetarian one,
and a meal is considered incomplete without side dishes such as raita (a
yogurt-based dip), chutney or rice. At Vij’s, all these elements are
frequently intricately woven together into his recipes. For
example, one recipe calls for marinating boneless chicken thighs in a
yogurt/tamarind mixture, then grilling the chicken and serving it atop
salad greens with an accent of lemon juice and a side of pilaf.
At
Vij’s, cooking is adventurous and convivial, with each of Vikram’s
recipes being a collaborative effort with his wife, Meeru Dhalwala, and
his Punjabi kitchen staff.
“Cooking with another person in a social environment can make any
complicated recipe more interesting and fun," says Meeru.
When making recipes, the
first thing to remember is that in Indian cooking, measurements aren’t
carved in stone; it won’t matter if you use slightly more or less of an
ingredient. I also encourage you to smell what you are cooking—if you
like what you smell, chances are you’ll like what you’ve made.”
With
those words of guidance, try cooking Vij’s cuisine at home using recipes
from Vij’s Elegant & Inspired
Indian Cuisine as a start.
Better
yet, book a flight to Vancouver during the best months for visiting (June
through August) and sample Vij’s cuisine in person!
PRAWNS
IN COCONUT MASALA
Yield: 6
servings
30 prawns, shelled and deveined
2 teaspoons salt
2 tablespoons ghee or canola oil
½ teaspoon cumin seeds
2 large onions, chopped
3 large ripe tomatoes, finely chopped
2 tablespoons coconut milk, stirred
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
2 teaspoons chopped green chilies
3 bunches green onions, white and green parts, chopped
Place
prawns
in a colander and rinse under cold water. Allow
excess water to drain. In a bowl, combine prawns and 1 teaspoon of the
salt. Cover with plastic wrap and set aside in the refrigerator while you
are making the coconut masala.
In a
large frying pan, melt ghee on medium-high heat (or heat oil for 1
minute). Add cumin seeds and allow them to sizzle for 30 seconds. Add
onions and sauté 5 to 8 minutes, or until dark brown but not burned. Stir
in tomatoes, coconut milk, vinegar, chilies and the remaining teaspoon of
salt. Cook for 5 minutes, or until tomatoes are cooked through. Add green
onions and stir well.
Add
prawns, stirring constantly until they become pinkish-orange. This will
take about 3 minutes. Immediately remove from the heat.
To
serve: Place 5 prawns on each of six small shallow plates. Top each
serving with one-sixth of the coconut masala. Alternatively, divide the
coconut masala evenly among six small shallow plates, then top with 5
prawns per plate.
SAUTÉED
ARUGULA AND SPINACH WITH PANEER AND ROASTED CASHEWS
Yield: 6 servings
2 ounces whole raw unsalted
cashews
½ pound arugula
1 ½ pounds spinach
½ cup canola oil
1 tablespoon cumin seeds
3 cups puréed tomatoes (9 medium)
1 tablespoon + 1 teaspoon ground black mustard seeds
½ teaspoon turmeric
1 tablespoon salt
1 teaspoon crushed cayenne pepper
3 cups water
1 2/3 cups coconut milk, stirred
9 ounces paneer in 12 equal slices*
Preheat
the oven or toaster oven to 375°F. Spread cashews on a baking tray and
bake for 3 minutes. Gently stir cashews to roast them evenly. Return to
the oven for another 3 minutes, or until golden brown. Watch carefully
because cashews can burn quickly. Remove from the oven and cool for at
least 30 minutes.
Cut the
tougher, bottom stems (about 1 1/2 inches) off the spinach. If you don’t
like to eat the stems, cut off all of them but add more spinach leaves to
compensate. Combine spinach and arugula in a large bowl.
Heat
oil in a large frying pan on medium-high heat for 1 minute. Add cumin
seeds, stir and allow to sizzle for 30 to 45 seconds. Add tomatoes,
mustard seeds, turmeric, salt and cayenne. Stir and reduce the heat to
low, then cover and cook for 5 minutes. Remove the lid and stir. The top
of the masala should glisten with oil. If not, cook uncovered for another
1 to 2 minutes to make sure the spices are cooked through.
Stir in
water and increase the heat to medium. Bring to a boil, then reduce the
heat to low and cook at a low boil for 5 to 8 minutes. Add coconut milk,
increase the heat to medium and continue cooking until the curry starts to
boil. Add greens and cook them for 2 minutes, stirring regularly.
To
Serve: Place 2 slices of paneer in each of six large bowls. Pour the curry
and green leaves over the paneer. Top the greens with 6 to 7 roasted
cashews per bowl.
*Paneer is a
mild Indian cheese made from whole milk
