THE HUMBLE AUBERGINE

By Oded Schwartz

You either love it or hate it, but the aubergine  has been with us for thousands of years. Very versatile the humble aubergine can be fried, roasted on embers, baked in the oven or cooked in a stew. 

 It is surprising that this shiny, oddly shaped and coloured vegetable, related to the poisonous deadly nightshade, became an internationally valuable ingredient. 

When roasted or baked its soft, melting pulp is used as a base for soufflés, salads and soups. Small aubergines preserve very well and make delightful chutneys and pickles, they are even made into a delicious sweet preserve. The only thing an aubergine does not like is boiling in water. Indeed, in the Middle East the cooks’ reputation depends on the variety of aubergine dishes he or she can produce.

The dark, deep purple vegetable that populates our supermarket shelves is only one of a vast variety of aubergines that come in many shapes and sizes from the enormous, misshaped, almost black Middle Eastern baladi to the small egg shaped white aubergine favoured in South East Asia. Incidentally, its name in the US – eggplant was given because the first varieties to be introduced were white, egg shaped aubergines.

Its most common name, aubergine, is French. The aubergine originates in India where it was called vatin-ganah - bringal in modern India. When it arrived to the Middle East it was named al-badinjan, in France, it was corrupted into aubergine.

From India the aubergine spread both East and West becoming an important ingredient in the kitchens of China, South East Asia and Japan as well as in the sophisticated kitchens of Persia, Turkey and the rest of the Middle East. Arab traders introduced the Aubergine into Europe where, initially, the reaction was not favourable – this innocent kitchen marvel was associated with madness and leprosy. Its Italian name melanzana comes from the Latin mala insana, mad apple.

A good aubergine has shiny, bright, unblemished skin and should be firm to the touch. Select those that seem light for its size, a heavy aubergine indicates that it has gone to seed. Although they keep, refrigerated, for up to a week it is best to consume them soon after purchase.  

Being mild in flavour the aubergine has a strong affinity to smoke, garlic, olive oil, tomatoes, chillies, olives, capers, anchovies and many fragrant herbs such as basil, coriander, parsley, thyme, and marjoram. It also likes spices such as cumin, caraway, coriander and black pepper.

Aubergine is one of the few vegetables that should never be served al dente. When cooked well its texture is soft and melting - raw aubergine can be astringent, and undercooked aubergine becomes unpleasant and leathery. 

Now we come to one of the most common questions asked about cooking aubergine – should you salt the aubergine before cooking or not? 

There is no simple answer to this – it all depends on how you are going to use the aubergine. In the past the aubergine had a bitter sap, which was removed by salting. Bitterness is bred out of the modern aubergine so salting is not necessary.  Now salting is recommended for another reason: aubergine contains almost 90% of water. When this moisture escapes, during the process of frying, it is replaced by oil. 

Drawing out some of this moisture by salting reduces its ability to absorb oil. It is important to salt when using in a stew as the aubergine excessive moisture will dilute the intensity of the stew. Putting sliced aubergine in the sun for a while and letting them wilt also help to reduce their absorbency. 

To salt an aubergine, sprinkle the exposed flesh with a little salt and leave, either in a colander or on a tray in the sun for about 1 hour. Drain well, taste and if too salty rinse under running water and dry well on absorbent paper.

Raw aubergine oxidises quickly and turns black. To minimise blackening avoid untreated iron knives and sprinkle the exposed flesh with a little lemon juice. If possible do not cook aubergine in aluminium pots they also affect the colour.

Nutritiously, it is very low in calories, nil on fat and has very little protein or carbohydrates making it ideal for our diet. Although not containing vitamins, the aubergine is rich in minerals - calcium, magnesium, potassium, and phosphorous and fibre which is mainly in the skin. 

Like the tomato, potato and pepper the aubergine is a member of the selenium family and contains solanine, a calcium inhibiter, which can affect people suffering from arthritic and other bone and joint problems.

As you can see from the above I love aubergines and use them extensively. The following are a few of my favourite recipes. 


SMOKY AUBERGINE PURÉE (basic recipe)

The best way to get the smoky flavour is to roast the aubergine directly on glowing embers. The process takes around 15 – 20 minutes, turning the aubergine frequently to prevent burning. The aubergine is ready when the outside is evenly charred and the inside perfectly soft and pulpy. When a braai is not available, roast directly on a gas fire; or, simply, bake it in a very hot oven (heated to maximum) for 25 - 30 minutes. Before baking stab the aubergine, with a wooden skewer or the tip of your knife in a few places, otherwise the aubergine will explode. 

When ready, allow the aubergine to cool a little and then peel off the charred skin. I do it under very slow running cold water to help to remove loose pieces of burnt skin. Place the pulp in a colander and drain for a few hours.

Final remark on the subject of preparing aubergine: I like chopping my aubergine by hand – it makes a nicer, more textured salad rather then the creamy paste produced by mechanical processor. 

The following four recipes are based on this delicious purée, which can also be served as is, flavoured with olive oil, lemon juice or vinegar, garlic, salt and fresh herbs. A chilli, or two, if liked, would not harm it either.

AUBERGINE & POMEGRANATE SALAD

This elegant dish comes directly from the magnificent kitchens of the fertile crescent, from the Euphrates River to the Mediterranean shore, wherever aubergine and pomegranates grow. It is a delicious combination of sweet, sour and fragrant. Serve it as a part of a mezzah or a first course accompanied by hot pita or bread.

1 kg aubergine roasted as above
1 large pomegranate, peeled and separated into seeds
3 - 4 tbsp good olive oil
1 small red onion or a bunch of spring onion, chopped
1 - 2 cloves garlic, mashed
juice of 1 lemon or to taste
grated peel of 1 lemon
1 - 2 red chillies (optional)
4 - 5 tbsp mint and parsley, mixed and finely chopped
salt
(Serves 2 - 4)

Mix the drained aubergine with two thirds of the pomegranate seeds, keeping the rest for decoration. Add the remaining ingredients and chill for a few hours to develop flavour. Decorate with the remaining seeds and mint leaves. Serve at room temperature.

POOR MAN'S CAVIAR

A delicious and refreshing dish eaten in southern Russia and Romania where it is served as a salsa to accompany fish and meat dishes. Sometimes roasted red and green peppers are added to the dish.

1 kg (2 lb) aubergine, prepared as above
350 g tomatoes, peeled, de-seeded and grated on a coarse grater
3 - 4 tbsp fruity olive oil
100 g red onion or spring onion, chopped
1 - 2 cloves of garlic, mashed
lemon juice to taste
grated peel of 1 lemon
4 tbsp finely chopped parsley
salt
2 or more green or red fresh chillies, seeds removed, chopped finely

(Serves 6 - 8)

Proceed as above. Decorate with black olives and flat leave parsley.

BABA GANOUSH

This is an Arab classic. Serve as a part of the mezzah or as a first course.

1 kg (2 lb) aubergine, prepared as above
100 g raw tahini paste
2 cloves of garlic, crushed and mashed with a little salt
lemon juice, to taste
salt
2 tbsp fruity olive oil
4 tbsp chopped mint or parsley
green and red peppers, black olives and mint for decoration

Combine ingredients. Decorate with spring onions and flat leave parsley.

AUBERGINE & GOAT'S CHEESE SOUFFLÉ 

1 kg (2lb) aubergine
5 large eggs separated
3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
150 chèvre or feta cubed
100 g ground almond and some for lining the moulds
grated peel of ½ a lemon
1 tbsp lemon juice
2 tbsp chopped mint or parsley
¼ tsp chilli cayenne or a few shakes of Tabasco
butter for greasing the ramekins
8 mint sprigs for decoration
(Serves 8 - small ramekins)

Mix the aubergine purée together with the egg yolks and oil. Fold in the cheese and all the other ingredients. Add a scant teaspoon of salt to the egg whites and beat into a soft snow. Gently fold the beaten egg whites into the mixture. Butter the ramekins well and coat with ground almonds, shaking any excess out.

Three quarter fill the ramekins with the mixture and bake in a hot oven 220ºC until the soufflé has risen and the inside is dry when tested with a skewer. Decorate with mint and serve immediately. 

AUBERGINE STUFFED WITH SHRIMPS & CAPERS

Delicious, piquant and easy to make dish based on a Sicilian classic is served accompanied with bread as a first course, or with rice, pasta or salad for a light main course.  Serve it hot or at room temperature where it is at its best.

3 medium aubergines
3 tbsp olive oil
2 medium onions chopped
3 cloves of garlic, chopped
1 - 2 red chillies, de-seeded and chopped
3 - 4 anchovy fillets, chopped
500 g tomatoes, peeled, de-seeded and chopped
juice and grated peel of 1 lemon
300 g cooked peeled shrimps or small prawns
2 tbsp capers, rinsed
2 - 3 tbsp chopped dill, parsley or basil
salt
50 g Pecorino or Parmesan cheese, grated
(Serves 6)

Halve the aubergine lengthwise and carefully scoop out the flesh of the leaving the skin intact. Chop the flesh coarsely. Lightly salt and leave in a colander to drain for 30 minutes.

Heat the oil and add the onion garlic, chilli, if used, and fry without browning, until the onion has softened. Add the anchovies and continue to fry for a few minutes until the anchovy has melted. Rinse the aubergine, drain well, add to the frying mixture and continue frying, stirring occasionally, for about 5 minutes. Add the tomato and lemon juice, reduce the heat and simmer for about 25 - 30 minutes or until most of the liquid has evaporated. Switch off the heat, and add the shrimps and herbs and adjust the salt – as anchovies and capers are used only little salt is needed.

Place the skins on a greased baking tray. Pile the stuffing into the skins, sprinkle with the cheese. Bake in a preheated oven, gas mark 7, 220ºC, for about 30 minutes.


For more on Oded Schwartz, consultant, food historian and author of the highly acclaimed book 'Preserving', On Showcook See "Be a devil and start experimenting with the wonderful world of chilli flavouring; see
CHILLIES." 

Oded is giving classes and demonstrations on preserving and other specialized subjects. For more information, please contact Oded at odedschwartz@cybersmart.co.za or (021) 426-2397 

© Oded Schwartz

 

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Last modified: June 06, 2008