Chillies Chillies * Chillies * Chillies 

"I am a consummate chilli lover," says Oded Schwartz "and find them an indispensable item in my larder." 

"Be a devil and start experimenting with the wonderful world of chilli flavouring." 

Fresh, dried, whole or powdered, hot, sweet or mild, chillies play an essential role in the global kitchen, adding flavour, texture and a bright appetizing colour to sauces, pickles and relishes from every continent.

Like the tomatoes, chillies were introduced to the Old World from the Americas, where they grew wild. They are high in vitamin C and A, and in capsicum, the source of their heat.

Used with discretion they lift and add piquancy to many dishes. When used in large quantities they produce a sensation that no other ingredient can duplicate. Capsicum has similar chemical properties as Endorphin – a peptide that affects the brain pleasure zone and gives a general feeling of well-being.  

Chillies come in a bewildering range of shapes, colours and degrees of heat. Internationally the heat is measured from 1 to 10 from the Habanero and the Scotch Bonnet, which are rated 10, the Jalapeno rated 5 and the mild sweet cherry chilli 1. 


For the uninitiated, chillies should be handled with caution. 

Use gloves, especially when working with a large quantity of chillies. Chilli can produce a nasty burn if you have sensitive skin.

Wash your hands with a detergent and warm or cold water – hot water seems to ‘cook’ the chilli residue into the skin.

The chilli’s heat is mainly in the seeds and the white veins which line the inside cavity – removing them will result in a milder chilli.

Sensitivity to a chilli’s heat differs from person to person, so, it is important to exercise some caution, gradually experimenting with the many types and building up your personal tolerance level.

The recipes below are for four different chilli pastes, which I always have in my store cupboard. I use those convenient condiments whenever I need to add fire and piquancy. A spoonful, two, or more will add relish to mayonnaises, yoghurt sauces, salads or stews. I also use them as a part of a marinade for a braai and to ‘devil’  – spread on steaks, chicken or fish. To devil is a quaint English word meaning to add chilli (usually powdered cayenne).

HARRIEF - Hot Pepper Sauce 

My favourite hot sauce, I make it in large quantities and use it to add instant piquancy wherever needed. It goes into sauces, soups, stews, salads and pasta or brushed on fish or meats before braaing.

2 kg sweet red peppers
250 g fresh red chillies, trimmed and de seeded
250 g garlic, peeled 
250 ml cider or distilled malt vinegar 
150 ml fruity olive oil
3 tbsp salt
1  - 2 tbsp chilli powder
2 tbsp roasted, freshly ground cumin
2 tsp arrowroot or corn flour
(Makes about 1kg)

Roast the peppers on an open flame or under a grill until their skin is evenly charred. Place the hot peppers in a plastic bag, close and allow to stand for a few minutes — the steam created makes the peppers easy to peel. Peel the peppers under running water, wash well, core and de-seed.

Put the peppers together with the chilli, garlic and oil in a food processor and process until the vegetables are finely chopped. Transfer into a non -corrosive pan and add vinegar, salt and chilli powder, if used. Reduce the heat and simmer gently, stirring frequently, for about 1-1 ½ hours or until the sauce has reduced by a third.

Roast the cumin seeds in a small frying pan for a few minutes until they start to pop and produce a pleasant aroma allow to cool and grind to a fine powder. If wished the cumin can be roasted and added whole.

Combine the starch with the cumin and mix to a paste with a little vinegar and stir into the sauce. Raise the heat and boil the sauce rapidly for 1 minute, stirring constantly. Pour into hot sterilized jars and seal. The sauce is ready immediately but mellows with keeping.

It is difficult to give exact quantity of chillies, since the varieties differ in heat. For this recipe, I used the large red Westland, which gives a hot but not scorching result. Others such as red Jalapeno, or any other red chillies can be used.

For a smoother sauce: simmer for 1 hour, pass through a sieve or process in a food processor return to the pan and finish as above.

HARISSA

Here is a basic recipe for this famous, fiercely hot Moroccan paste. Before using it, you can soften its flavour with tomato purée or puréed fresh tomatoes. Some garlic, coriander and cumin may be added.

500 g dry red chillies, stems and seeds removed
150 ml olive oil and a little to cover
2 ½ tbsp salt
(
Makes about 500 g)

Place seedless chillies in a bowl. Add enough hot water to cover and leave to stand for about 30 minutes until soft. Do this in a well-ventilated kitchen, as the fumes can be noxious. 

Drain the chillies and place with about 100 ml of the soaking water in a food processor and process into a paste. Stir in the oil and salt and pack into dry, sterile jars. Cover the paste with a thin layer of oil, then seal and refrigerate. The harissa is ready to use immediately.

SCHUG 

Schug is a hot chilli past with an amazing fresh flavour. It comes from Yemen were it is used in a wide range of dishes and appears as the favourite condiment at every meal. If you prefer a milder version, replace half or more of the chillies with green peppers.

1 large head of garlic, peeled
750 g fresh green chillies, stem end trimmed
150 g fresh coriander, leaves and stems, root end trimmed
1 tbsp coriander seeds
2 tsp cumin seeds
2 tsp black peppercorns
1 tsp cardamom
2 tsp cloves
1 ½ tbsp salt
a little olive oil, to cover
(Makes about 1 kg)

Finely mince or chop the garlic, chillies and fresh coriander in the mincer or food processor. Grind all the spices in a spice mill or a coffee grinder. Sieve into the chilli and garlic mixture, then stir in the salt and mix well. 

Tightly pack into dry, sterile jars. Cover with a thin layer of oil (this prevents mould from forming) and seal. Keep refrigerated.

CHILLI JAM 

Chilli jam seems to be very much in fashion recently. Strictly speaking, it is not a jam but a chilli paste, which stems from the Malay and South East Asia chilli sambals.

500 g tomatoes
2 medium onions, unpeeled
1 large head of garlic, unpeeled
3 - 4 tbsp sesame or groundnut oil
100 - 150 g hot red chillies such long red Thai or red jalapeno
5 cm ginger, peeled and finely chopped
3 lemon grass, finely chopped
2 tbsp Thai fish sauce (nam pla) or 1½ tsp salt
150 g moist, brown sugar or palm sugar
2 limes, juice and grated peel
(M
akes about 500 g)

Pre heat the oven to high. Halve the tomatoes, width wise, and scoop out the seeds. Place the sliced tomatoes, cut side down, on a foil lined, oiled baking tray together with the chillies, unpeeled onion and garlic and generously brush with oil. Place in the hot oven for about 30 minutes or until the tomatoes are soft and the chilli skin is charred and blistered. Return the garlic and onion to the oven and roast for further 15 minutes or until onion and garlic are soft. Allow to cool.

Peel the onion and squeeze the garlic out of its skin. Remove the tomato peel, skin the chillies and remove their hard stems. I like to include the chilli’s seeds in this recipe. For a milder version, remove the seeds.

Place the baked vegetables together with the ginger and lemon grass in a food processor and process to a smooth paste.

Transfer the paste in to a small, non-corrosive pan. Add the sugar fish sauce, and lime and bring to the boil, stirring constantly to dissolve the sugar. Simmer very gently for about 45-60 minutes or until the mixture is glossy and thick. Stir frequently to avoid burning. Bottle and seal. Keep refrigerated.

 

For details on Oded Schwartz, consultant, food historian and author of the highly acclaimed book 'Preserving', see FLAVOURS OF CITRUS where he shares his bittersweet bounty of winter's treasured fruits and SUMMER BERRIES with SHOWCOOK.  
Oded is giving classes and demonstrations on preserving and other specialized subjects. For more information, please contact Oded at odedschwartz@cybersmart.co.za or (021) 426-2397 

 

Photography by Franz Lauinger

 

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Last modified: September 19, 2008