VIN DE CONSTANCE
with Michel Roux Jnr

Sublime tastes marry in this charming cookbook celebrating "the sweet, luscious and excellent wine", Vin de Constance, a Noble Late Harvest from Klein Constantia, complemented by Michel Roux Jnr's exquisite and sumptuous dishes from one of London's great three Michelin starred restaurants, La Gavroche.


Vin de Constance was favoured by kings and emporers, preferred by the aristocracy and acquired by generals. A wine that rivalled the appeal of 'Tokay' in the European courts in the 18th and 19th centuries - no small achievement by a Dutch settlement at the tip of Africa!

"A great sweet wine needs perfect balance, a little acidity and length," says Michel Roux Jnr. "Vin de Constance has all this but also versatility!" It is the wine of choice for blue cheese such as roquefort, a classic accompaniment for rich, smooth foie gras and for exquisite desserts that complement the natural floral notes within the wine.

The story of the legendary Constantia wine began in 1685 with Governor Simon van der Stel on a grant of land, the size of Amsterdam at the time, which he named Constantia, set in a valley between two great oceans and cooled by moisture laden winds with soils that suited his purpose. He saw the Cape of Good Hope not as a half way house to India but as a gateway to Europe. 

GRATIN OF BLUEBERRIES AND LEMON

Muscovado sugar comes from Mauritius, goes from light brown to almost black, and is truly delicious! It is similar in taste to some of the spicy, floral notes found in Vin de Constance. If muscovado sugar is hard to find, substitute good quality pure cane sugar.

Blueberries
180 g blueberries
220 g castor sugar
juice of 1 lemon
½ teaspoon Chinese 5 spice
2 tablespoons water

Lemon Gratin
finely grated zest of 1 lemon
100 ml lemon juice
150 g castor sugar
3 eggs, lightly beaten
150 g butter, cut into small pieces
2 tablespoons light brown muscovado sugar 
(Serves 6)

Blueberries  Place all the ingredients in a very wide pan and cook over high heat. Shake the pan to mix everything together but, if using a spoon, be gentle so as not to break the fruit. Bring to the boil and simmer for 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from the heat, cover and leave to cool.

Transfer the blueberries and juice into individual flat, ovenproof pie dishes.

Lemon Gratin  Mix together the lemon zest and juice, castor sugar and eggs in a glass or stainless steel bowl. Place over a pan of gently simmering water and stir until the mixture thickens. This should take 5 to 6 minutes.

Pour immediately into the bowl of a mixer and whisk at almost full speed, adding the butter piece by piece. After about 3 minutes the butter should be fully incorporated. Divide the lemon cream between the dishes, taking care to cover the blueberries. Place the dishes in the fridge for at least 3 hours.

To Serve  Just before serving, sprinkle the muscovado sugar onto the lemon cream, and place under a hot grill to glaze and warm.

STIR-FRIED SPICED FRUIT WITH BAKED EGG CUSTARD

Custard
2 whole eggs
2 egg yolks
50 g castor sugar
450 ml cream
50 ml milk
pinch each ground mace and grated nutmeg, plus extra nutmeg for sprinkling
2 teaspoons rose water

Stir-Fried Spiced Fruit
1 medium, golden sweet pineapple
2 large mangoes, slightly under-ripe
2 pears
6 purple plums
3 freestone peaches 
24 cherries
6 passion fruit (granadillas)
½ teaspoon each mustard seeds, coriander seeds, ground ginger and ground cinnamon
3 tablespoons light brown muscovado sugar
2 tablespoons maple syrup
(Serves 6)

Custard  Whisk together the eggs and castor sugar until pale and creamy. Place the cream and milk in a saucepan with the mace and nutmeg, and bring to the boil. Pour this onto the egg mixture, mix well, then add the rose water. Pour the custard into little dishes or ramekins (teacups are also good), stand in a pan of hot water and bake at 120ºC for 20 to 30 minutes, depending on the size of the dishes. Dust with a little extra grated nutmeg and serve at room temperature (not cold).

Stir-Fried Spiced Fruit  Peel the pineapple, mangoes and pears. Remove the stones and cores from all the fruit. Cut everything into bite-size pieces. Cut the passion fruit in half, scoop out the flesh, juice and seeds, and set aside for later.

Put all the spices in a mortar or spice mill and crush. Set a large, wide non-stick frying pan over high heat, add the spices and toss for about 20 seconds to release the aromas. Add the hardest fruit such as the pears and pineapple, and stir-fry for 30 seconds. Add the muscovado sugar and maple syrup, then the softer fruit, still over high heat. Finish with passion fruit. You should end up with fruit that is cooked but still a little firm, with a delicious syrupy sauce.

To Serve  Serve the fruit in a bowl while still hot, with the custard pots on one side.

LAVENDER CAKES WITH ROASTED PEACHES AND PISTACHIOS

Use soft, freestone peaches in this recipe. Unlike clingstone peaches, the flesh comes away easily and cleanly from the stone; way more luscious to my mind.

Roasted Peaches
4 large, ripe freestone peaches
1 tablespoon unsalted butter

4 tablespoons castor sugar

Lavender Cakes
150g unsalted butter 
5 egg whites
150 g castor sugar
60 g ground almonds
60 g plain flour (cake flour), sifted
1 tablespoon edible lavender flowers
finely grated zest of ¼ orange
2 tablespoons clear honey
2 tablespoons whisky
(Serves 4)

Roasted Peaches  To peel the peaches, place gently in boiling water for 20 seconds, then lift out and plunge into iced water to halt the cooking. Drain well, then carefully remove the skin. 

Heat an ovenproof non-stick roasting tray on the stove-top. Add the butter and, when it’s foaming, add the peaches, navel side up. When browned, turn over and sprinkle with castor sugar. Bake at 180ºC for 5 minutes, then baste with the sweet juices. Carry on cooking for about 20 minutes depending on the size of the peaches, basting regularly. Remove from the pan, cover and keep warm. 

Put the pan on high heat, add the lemon juice and wine, boil for 2 to 3 minutes, then add the pistachios. Keep warm for later.

Lavender Cakes  Heat the butter in a medium saucepan until it turns light brown, then leave to cool. Whisk the egg whites with the castor sugar until frothy but not stiff. Fold in the almonds, flour, lavender flowers and orange zest. When smooth, fold in the butter, including any brown bits. 

Fill small buttered cake tins measuring about 3cm by 6xm two-thirds full. Bake for 10 to 15 minutes at 200ºC until risen and golden. Meanwhile, warm together the honey and whisky. Take the cakes out of the tins and baste immediately with the honey and whisky. 

To Serve  Place the peaches on plates and spoon over the pistachios and sauce. Serve with warm lavender cakes.

SAVOY CAKE WITH APRICOT AND ALMOND PRESERVE

This traditional cake from the region of Savoie in France is best served warm with fruit compôte or fruit preserve and, of course, a glass of Vin de Paille, though Vin de Constance would do just as well! For the best result, the cake should be cooked in an old-fashioned circular copper tin with the centre filled in. These moulds are now pretty rare, more often used as decorative pieces of antiquity rather than for cooking. Modern tins are made of earthenware, aluminium or even ovenproof rubber. It was also deemed best to bake Savoy Cakes in a wood-fired oven although a conventional oven will do. But try placing thick slices of cake onto a barbecue to toast and warm though. Delicious!

Apricot Preserve
500 g ripe apricots
juice of 1 lemon
1 vanilla pod, split and scraped
300 g castor sugar

Savoy Cake
1 tablespoon unsalted butter, and 1 tablespoon castor sugar, for the cake tin
5 eggs
125 g castor sugar
100 g plain flour (cake flour), sifted
200 g potato flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
pinch sea salt
5 egg whites
(Serves 6)

Apricot Preserve Wash the apricots, cut in half and remove the stones. Place the fruit in a thick-based saucepan with the lemon juice, vanilla pod and seeds, and castor sugar. 

Break half the apricot stones to reveal the kernels. Remove the brown skin around the almond-shaped kernels. They have a very strong flavour. Place them in the preserve to cook. (You could supplement – or even substitute – regular almonds.) 

Cover with a lid and gently bring to a simmer. Remove the lid and skim off any scum that has risen to the surface. Stir gently to avoid sticking. The preserve should take about 45 minutes to cook and thicken like a compôte. Pour into a clean glass jar. Keep in the fridge until needed.

Savoy Cake Choose a cake tin able to take 1,25 litres of batter, with room to expand. Butter it and dust with castor sugar.

Whisk the eggs with 25 g of the castor sugar for 10 minutes until very thick and pale. Fold in the flours, baking powder and salt. Whisk the egg whites until soft and frothy, then add the remaining castor sugar and continue beating until firm. Fold the egg white into the yolk mixture. Pour the batter into the tin and bake at 200ºC for 10 minutes, then a further 30 minutes at 170ºC. Check by inserting a small knife into the cake: if it comes out clean, it is cooked. Remove from the oven, leave for 2 to 3 minutes, then turn out on a wire rack to cool.

To Serve Slice the cake and serve with apricot preserve.

 

VIN DE CONSTANCE
with Michel Roux Jnr
Food Photography by Tara Fisher
Historical Background by Jos Baker
and Gill Baikoff for original historical research on Vin de Constance
Published by Lannice Snyman Publishers

For further information 
see
Cook's Corner

 

Home ] Up ]

Send mail to info@showcook.co.za with questions or coments about this web site.
Copyright ©1999-2008 SHOWCOOK, COOKING FOR YOU
Last modified: September 19, 2008