DELECTABLE 
Food from rural France to urban Cape

By Marlene van der Westhuizen 
Photography by Stephen Inggs

'Delectable', by Marlene van der Westhuizen, is indeed delectable and Stephen Inggs' photography guilds the lily in the most charming and delicious way with evocative images that transport us and bring to life the countryside of France! 

Marlene tells us that the cooking in 'Delectable' is what she fondly calls 'brasserie luxe', simple dishes that look as good as they taste, stemming from Chateau la Creuzette, the Boussac and Charroux villages, and the beautiful guest farm, Aux Jardin des Thévenets among many magical places in the Auvergne with rolling green fields and deep gorges. 

Marlene delightfully twins her beloved Green Point Village in Cape Town, Middelvlei Wine Estate in Stellenbosch and Brandfontein, a rural and unspoiled area close to L'Agulhas, with her home from home the Auvergne in France. 

The recipes I have included here are redolent of cherished times past. 

What a pleasure that with the aromas and textures of this food one could capture a memory...

BERRY TARTS WITH MASCARPONE

This dessert was born out of sheer desperation when confronted with an almost empty fridge… just a forgotten roll of frozen pastry, and a tub of mascarpone a second away from its sell-bydate! The berries were hunted down in the garden…you don’t need many. 

The tarts are fantastically colourful. Cherries from the market a springtime delight.

1 roll puff pastry, thawed
125 ml castor sugar
250 g mascarpone
vanilla to taste
berries of choice
125 ml double-thick cream

(Serves 6)

Mould puff pastry into flan ramekins. Fold the castor sugar into the mascarpone. Add the vanilla, and fold a handful of berries – wild strawberries are great! – into the cheese mixture. Put a dollop in each ramekin, and bake at 180°C/Gas 4 for around 20 minutes. Remove. Add some fresh berries, and serve with a scoop of thick cream.

‘Without lunch, what will become of love?’ Lorenzo de Como

The Wednesday Market

ORANGE CAKE WITH LIME MASCARPONE

This is an excellent cake. I serve it in winter with a glass of Sauternes – or any of our local botrytis wines. Makes 2 x 20 cm cakes, and serves 16 with plenty left over for your. Keeps well in a sealed container.

2 large oranges
6 eggs
550 g sugar
1 tsp baking powder 
550 g ground almonds
10 g cinnamon
zest and juice of 2 limes
250 g mascarpone cheese

Place the oranges whole into a saucepan with enough water to cover. Simmer for an hour or until the oranges are completely tender. Change the simmering water up to three times to get rid of any traces of bitterness. Cut the oranges in half, remove the seeds, and purée the flesh and peels in a blender.

Preheat the oven to 180°C/Gas 4.

Butter and flour 2 x 20 cm springform tins, and line the bottoms with baking paper. Beat the eggs and 500 g of the sugar until pale and thick. Combine the baking powder, ground almonds and cinnamon, and stir in. Fold into the orange purée. Pour into the prepared tins and bake on the center shelf for 60 minutes, or until a skewer inserted in to the center of the cake comes out clean. Turn the cakes out onto a cake rack.

While they’re cooling, make the lime mascarpone: combine the rest of the sugar with the lime zest, juice and mascarpone. Adjust the lime juice and sugar if necessary.

Serve the cake in wedges with a spoonful of lime mascarpone and some mixed berries.

‘Once a woman has forgive her man, she must not reheat his sins for breakfast.’ Marlene Dietrich

Brocante on a Sunday

BELLA’S CHEESECAKE

Let’s just do the crust the usual way, by crunching up a packet of short biscuits and stirring the crumbs into 75 ml of melted, unsalted butter. Line a greased baking tin with the crumb mixture and keep in the refrigerator until you need it. Bella’s cheesecake filling is the best that I can remember from my childhood days. 

3 eggs
125 g castor sugar
500 ml smooth cream cheese
125 ml double cream

(Serves 10)

This chair is a charming antique market find from a Sunday brocante in a neighbouring village.

Whip the eggs and castor sugar until foamy. Spoon the cream cheese into the mixture and whip thoroughly. Fold in the cream. Pour the mixture into the crust, and bake for 40 minutes in a preheated oven at 160°C/Gas 3. When the cake has risen and set, turn the oven off and open the oven door. Allow the cake to cool down within the oven. Serve in thick slices and burst into song!

Brocante On A Sunday

PAVLOVA WITH STRAWBERRY SYRUP

What a lovely alternative to the normal pavlova. Hubert Maetz, a French chef with whom I’ve spent some time in the Alsace, always trained us by pointing out the ‘cinema’ factor… he would love this! 

350 g egg whites
450 g castor sugar
1 tbsp cornflour
1 tsp vanilla paste
750 ml white wine
250 ml castor sugar
1 punnet strawberries
1 tsp pure vanilla bean paste*
300 ml thick cream
(Serves 6)

Beat the egg whites until soft peaks form. Take care not to whip them until they dry out – that will make the cooked pavlova brittle. Add half the sugar, spoon by spoon, beating all the time. Add the cornflour, then fold the rest of the sugar into the mixture. Make sure the sugar has dissolved, and finally add the vanilla paste. 

Spoon the mixture onto a large metal or ovenproof tray lined with greaseproof paper. I usually smear some unsalted butter over the greaseproof paper as well. Shape the meringue into a small circular pavlova… try to get as much height as possible, and to form a little ‘hill’ right in the middle of the pavlova that is not higher than the sides. 

Place in a really warm preheated oven (about 220°C/Gas 7) and immediately reduce the heat to 140°C/Gas 1. Bake for about 2 hours. The pavlova will rise slowly and turn a light caramel colour with a crisp meringue look. The inside will be light and fairycake-like. Remove from the oven and let cool. 

Bring the wine and castor sugar to a fast boil in a deep pot, and let it reduce to a syrupy consistency. Add two strawberries to the syrup. Add the vanilla paste and allow to cool.

Whip the cream until soft peaks form.

Just before serving, remove the strawberries from the syrup, which will be a lovely pink colour. Spoon the cream onto the cooled pavlova; heap the fresh, unhulled strawberries on top of the cream; and spoon the lovely pink syrup over. 

* Vanilla paste is fairly new in South Africa but can be found at most deli.

Aux Jardins des Thévenets

WHITE CHOCOLATE MOUSSE

The sexiest little mousse imaginable! 

3 x 100 g slabs of white Lindt chocolate
375 ml cream
2 tsp pure vanilla bean paste
1 bottle light white wine
500 g castor sugar
16 strawberries (2 per person)
(Serves 8)

Place all the chocolate in a heat-resistant bowl and melt in a microwave at the lowest power for 30 seconds at a time, stirring frequently until the chocolate is nice and smooth. In the meantime, beat the cream until it forms soft peaks. Stir in the vanilla. Stir the melted chocolate into the cream mixture with a spoon, and spoon the mixture into pretty glasses. Leave in a cool place (not the fridge).

Boil wine and sugar until syrupy. Quickly dip the strawberries into the syrup and arrange them on serving plates, alongside the glasses of mousse. Drizzle with wine syrup. Finger licking is totally allowed!

Seagulls and Vineyards

SPICY CITRUS CAKE

This is simply the easiest, must-have cake. It travels wonderfully for picnics and weekends away. 

500 ml self raising flour
175 ml castor sugar
2,5 ml salt
125 ml sunflower oil
5 eggs, separated
200 ml water
zest of 1 orange
zest of 2 limes
5 ml vanilla bean paste
5 ml powdered cinnamon
10 ml butter
50 ml icing sugar
(Serves 10 with abundance) 

Mix together the flour, sugar and salt. Add the oil, beaten yolks and cold water, and whisk well. Beat the egg whites until stiff peaks from, and fold into the batter with the orange zest, lime zest, vanilla bean paste and cinnamon.

Pour the batter into a large, buttered spring from pan and bake at 180°C/Gas 4 for an hour or until a skewer comes out clean. Let the cake cool before removing it from the pan. Dust with a sprinkling of icing sugar.

 
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Last modified: June 06, 2008