The Sweet Surprise of Dessert Wines
PART ONE
By Ophelia Santos

When I was growing up, getting my hands on sweets was about as difficult as gaining access to the gold bullion in Fort Knox. I blame this unfortunate circumstance on the family dentist, whom I believe filled my mother’s head with nightmares of toothless children running amuck scaring the neighbors. This could explain why as an adult, I have developed a real fondness for dessert wines.

There are few things that can be as indulgent as enjoying a glass of good dessert wine. 

Dessert wines are typically consumed in smaller glasses, and the best wines reveal more and more of their personality with each successive sip. And no, not all dessert wines taste like syrup or sugar water. The good ones possess a fine balance between sweetness and acidity that makes them fitting partners for food.

This being the first of two dessert wine panels for Flavors Magazine, we bring you our favorites from several categories of wines tasted during one afternoon. We extend our thanks to the distributors, wineries and panelists who made this session possible and productive. 

SPARKLING SWEET WINES: WHITE

Panel’s Choice: 2003 Paolo Saracco Moscato d’Asti

This is a wine that truly delivers on the promise of freshness.  It is aromatic, delicate and lightly sparkling.  Low alcohol makes it an excellent choice as an aperitif, but fruity sweetness makes it equally appealing at the end of a big meal.  Moscato d’Asti is typically only bottled when a customer places an order for the wine in order to preserve the wine’s crispness.

Food Matches: fruit salads, chocolate mousse, tiramisu

Approximate retail: $17/750 ml bottle (Ansley Wine Merchants; Your DeKalb Farmers Market; Green's - Buford Highway; Peachtree Wine Merchants; Peachtree Road Liquor; Sherlock's - Barrett Parkway; Toco Hills Giant; Tower Beer, Wine, & Spirits - Piedmont Road)

Similar Wines to Consider: 2003 Marco Negri Moscato d’Asti ($11/750 ml), 2003 Marchesi di Gresy Moscato d’Asti “La Serra” ($11/750 ml)

SPARKLING SWEET WINES: RED

Panel’s Choice: 2003 Banfi “Rosa Regale” Brachetto d’Acqui 

Aromas of rose petals build up to a cheerful burst of strawberries and/or raspberries in this wine that has a low alcohol content and a gentle mousse.  And “Oh, what a wonderful wine to complement desserts,” said the chefs on our panel!  Give it as a gift or share it with company - this is too much fun to drink by yourself.  This is a wine to quaff and giggle over.

Food Matches: strawberry shortcake, berries with whipped cream, or frozen into a granità or sorbet for a refreshing palate cleanser

Approximate Retail: $13/375 ml bottle (Tower Beer, Wine & Spirits - Piedmont Rd; Atlantic Wine – Roswell Rd; Pearson’s Wine – Early St; The Wine Store – Alpharetta)

OFF-DRY/MEDIUM SWEET WINES

Panel’s Choice: 2001 La Vita Nuova Ramandolo

Deep gold in color, sweet but not excessively so, and full-bodied, this wine is a specialty from Italy’s Friuli region.   The wine is noticeably tannic for a white, a result of the natural astringency of the indigenous Verduzzo grape.  Its restrained character makes it a versatile partner not just for desserts, but also for light savory starters (do I smell prosciutto?) and ripe cheeses.

Food Matches: baklava, honey-lemon ice cream, roasted pears

Approximate retail: $16/750 ml bottle (new to the market and available by special order through your retailer; distributed by Daniel Distributors)

Similar Wines to Consider: 2003 Wente Vineyard Selection Riesling ($9/750 ml), NV Wolf Mountain Seyval Demi-sec ($13/750 ml)

LATE HARVEST WINES

Panel’s Choice: 2000 “Late” Mer Soleil

This is no shrinking violet of a wine, with its generous nose of flowers, apricots and spice.  If you’ve ever wondered what the word “luscious” means, this is it.  A thoroughly sensual experience, which we could describe more, but we would need clearance from the magazine’s editor.

Food Matches: crème brûlée or flan

Approximate retail: $32.99/375 ml bottle (Tower Beer, Wine & Spirits - Piedmont Rd; Atlantic Wine – Roswell Rd; Pearson’s Wine – Early St; The Wine Store – Alpharetta)

Similar Wines to Consider: 1999 Pirramimma Late Harvest Riesling ($18/500 ml), 1997 Steele Late Harvest Chardonnay “Du Pratt” Vineyard ($33/375 ml)

BEERENAUSLESE/TROCKENBEERENAUSLESE

Panel’s Choice: 2002 Kracher “Beerenauslese Cuvée”

Austria’s Burgenland region is favorably situated around the Neusiedlersee, a shallow lake that provides the perfect conditions for noble rot, an important natural phenomenon responsible for some of the world’s greatest sweet wines.  Austrian dessert wines are a bargain compared to similar ones from France or Germany, and Kracher’s “Beerenauslese Cuvée” is an outstanding example.  It has very complex aromas of spice, honey, orange peel and tea, and a finish that would make the Energizer Bunny proud.

Food Matches: warm apple tart, crêpes filled with fresh fruit, classic Sacher torte, strudel

Approximate retail: $31/375 ml bottle (at publication, only available at the following restaurants:  The Dining Room at the Ritz-Carlton Buckhead, Bone’s, Emeril's; or available by special order through your retailer; distributed by Quality Wines & Spirits)

Similar Wines to Consider: 2000 Terra Galos Welschriesling Beerenauslese ($21/375 ml)

EISWEIN

Panel’s Choice: 2003 King Estate Pinot Gris Vin Glacé

King Estate has managed to capture the very essence of ripe fruits in this crowd-pleaser of a wine.  The Vin Glacé (or ice wine) has very clean, finely-focused flavors of peach, pear, & apricot, with medium body and fine balance.  Be careful when you drink this;  it could be habit-forming.

Food Matches: buttery shortbread cookies, fruit cobbler, bread pudding

Approximate retail: $36/375 ml bottle (available by special order through your retailer; distributed by National Distributing Company)

Similar Wines to Consider: 1999 Weingut Kirsten Eisbär ($44/375 ml)

MOSCATEL-BASED WINES

Panel’s Choice: Rotllan Torra Moscatel

With its opulent golden brown color and elegant packaging, this wine is just begging to be a gift for someone special.  The mouthfeel is rich and luxurious, with flavors of fig, raisin, orange peel, and cinnamon.  If this wine were any more complex, it would be a Dan Brown novel. 

Food Matches: flourless dark chocolate cake, almond biscotti, crème caramel

Approximate retail: $22/500 ml bottle (available by special order through your retailer; distributed by Grapefields Fine Wine Distributors)

Similar Wines to Consider: R.L. Buller & Son Fine Tokay ($17/375 ml), Portal Moscatel do Douro ($16/750 ml)

SEE PART TWO

 

Photography by John Haigwood Studio

FLAVORS - The Forum for Atlanta Food 
Culture and Dining
A Toast to Traditions - Winter 2004
Restaurants, Chefs, Recipes Wine Tastings and more...
getflavors@comcast.net
www.flavorsmagazine.net

 

Managing Food Editor: Shelley Skiles Sawyer
Subscription Department 565 S. Atlanta St. Roswell, GA 30075 U.S.A. 1-770-698-9292
Flavors Magazine is published four times a year.