THE ELEPHANT WHISPERER

By Roy Watts

This is a moving, intriguing tale about love across the species line. Roy Watts explains, "It starts five years ago when Lawrence Anthony, a passionate conservationist, jumped off the commercial hamster wheel to develop Thula Thula, a most attractive game lodge near The Umfolozi Reserve." 

Situated a two hour drive north of Durban, Thula Thula is built on a giant lawn and has an ambience spawned by his perfectionism and the French flair of his charming partner Françoise. It is also a gourmet paradise. Roaming around the hills and valleys of this pristine wilderness are impala, kudu, nyala, zebra, giraffe, rhino, warthog, hyenas and the love interest of this tale, Nanna, matriarch to a band of reformed elephant delinquents.

After watching a savage Carte Blanche documentary on the brutal taming of the Tuli elephants. Lawrence made an unsuccessful attempt to acquire some of these unfortunate animals, but they had already been placed in various game reserves. The Elephant Manager and Owners association learned of his need and came to light with a herd of seven jumbos from Mpumalanga, and they were darted, loaded on trucks, sedated and sent on a nine hour road trip. 

On arrival at Thula Thula they were corralled into an electrically fenced boma to be acclimatised prior to release. This didn’t suit them at all, and by 5am the next day they had flattened the boundary fence with a huge Tamboti tree and started the long walk to the freedom of the North. A frantic search ensued, lead by the attractive blonde Françoise asking all and sundry in her deep French accent whether they had seen a herd of seven elephants go by. 

 

In an area that hadn’t seen a jumbo for at least a century, this must have seemed slightly south of surreal, to say the least. A helicopter joined the search, located the animals, and in a skilful piece of flying the pilot managed to herd them back to within 20 metres of Thula Thula. But night was falling and the wily Nanna retreated into thick bush, and under the cover of darkness they managed to reach and break into the Umfolozi Game reserve. Here the truants really let rip. They broke into an anti poaching unit cabin, scattering bedding, clothes, and rations all around the countryside. If that was not enough, in a stunt akin to schoolboys debagging a headmaster, they then charged and traumatised the senior manager of Umfolozi. 

At this point KwaZulu Natal Wildlife stepped in with a check into the history of the animals, coming to the conclusion that they were incorrigible, and that permission should never have been given to re-locate them to Thula Thula in the first place. Their immediate inclination was to shoot Nanna and the adults, then return the rest of the herd to the wild. Lawrence Anthony meanwhile was offered R100, 000 for the herd by a Chinese Zoo agent, who then mounted an assault on his initial reluctance by gradually upping the bid to R300, 000.  

Jumboed out as he was after their high-jinks, it is a tribute to his resolve that he managed to walk away from this offer to throw himself at the feet of the KZN Wildlife in a plea for a second chance. Reluctantly they relented and under the threat of a death sentence for a repeat performance, they were darted and returned to the Thula Thula Boma, now wisely bereft of Tamboti trees.

Dawn broke, and with it a hung-over and seriously ticked off herd of elephants put on a full display of their restlessness. Mindful of the extermination threat, Lawrence decided that he was going to stay close to them for as long as it took to gain acceptance. For the next two weeks, 24 hours a day, he lived at the boma, constantly patrolling the perimeter talking and singing whilst they stomped around mad as hell, flapping their ears, trumpeting and showing all the signs of great elephantine displeasure. 

After a fortnight of chatting and crooning, and close to being classified as a hoarse-whisperer, he decided to take a coffee break up at the house. When he left the air was thick with malice and resentment, but on his return a palpable calm had taken its place. Cautiously he approached the fence, and stood face to face with Nana the matriarch. In a scene that could have been culled from ‘The Taming of the Shrew’, she tenderly put her trunk through the electrified wires and started gently touching him. At this point Lawrence decided that it was now or never and he released the herd into the Thula Thula reserve.

On their release, their calm demeanour remained, and Lawrence followed them from a distance of 50–100 metres in his doublecab bakkie to get them accustomed to his car. Their first sortie followed the perimeter fence which they tested every few meters by placing their trunks just below the middle strand to sense the electrical field. They soon gave up on this, and settled into a normal routine.

Two weeks later, Lawrence was woken up at 2am to find the herd serenely munching the thatch outside his house. He continued talking to them, and he realised that he was in a relationship with Nana as she proceeded to touch him through the open door. This ritual continued for several nights as he and his roof continued to host them between 2 and 5am each morning. But the biggest surprise of all was to come several weeks later when Nana returned one night to introduce him to two new members of the herd. It turned out that she and her sister Frankie had been pregnant throughout the whole induction saga, and at a time when most elephants would be protective and temperamental, she had chosen to present the babies to him.

The bond between Lawrence, Nana and the herd continued to increase. They got to recognise the sound of his car, and when he stopped anywhere near them, he was quickly surrounded by unbounded enthusiasm. We’re not talking Corps de Ballet here, and this fervour has already cost him several dents, and a couple of broken windows. And his popularity is such that he is now able to walk freely amongst them. This all lead to the most amazing development of all, his ability to summons them with a lengthy yell, just as Tarzan did in all those old-time movies.

In a recent visit to Thula Thula I was able to witness this extraordinary phenomenon first hand. We stopped on an open plain when we saw the herd some distance away. Lawrence gave his clarion call and started a mini-stampede. In seconds we were in a grey forest of legs, trunks, flapping ears and missionary zeal. This was truly one of my most memorable experiences. But it must be remembered at all times that these are still wild animals, and visitors to the lodge will see them in much the same way as tourists do on game drives in similar reserves around the country. This is due to the fact that Lawrence has gone to great lengths to keep his unique relationship with the herd separate from mainstream Thula Thula activity.

With peace and tranquillity returned to this beautiful resort, Lawrence Anthony has recently found himself in the spotlight on the  global stage. He was presented with The Earth day medal and the Earth Day award in a ceremony at the United Nations, for his heroic exploits in rescuing the Baghdad Zoo in the midst of the Iraqi conflict. A latter day Lawrence of Arabia so to speak. But that’s another story..."

For more information Tel +27 (35) 792-8322
or visit
www.thulathula.com  

© ROY WATTS 
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