Francois

HOME COOKING

By François Ferreira

François has established in 'Home Cooking', in his own inimitable way, some new South African classics by adding a little of this and a pinch of that. Curried fish with a peach relish, his version of Sabanangvleis (one of the oldest Cape Malay dishes), Our Bobotie (considered South Africa's national dish) with Granny Smith apples and raisins or a Mushroom Bobotie, which arose from a discussion with Topsi Venter, a grande dame of South African cuisine.

In 'Home Cooking' you will find delightful, homely recipes in a book that breathes warmth and conviviality. His teaching background is emphasised in sections on HOW TO... where he tackles the basics; how to bone a chicken without cutting the skin, carving, how to braise, roast and even how to boil and poach an egg perfectly. He tells us what to do with edible vegetable leaves, flowers and stems. He gives us the inside story on tubers and bulbs. He explains about herbs, spices and the exotic flavourings that permeate his thoughtful simple recipes.

Although François Ferreira is known for his 'bonhomie', a love of life, of food, of good wine there is another more serious side: his wide knowledge and deep interest in culinary history. Currently living in Oudtshoorn, where he is the head of Eden Hospitality Service & Training Unit, François is able to mentor the chefs and hoteliers of tomorrow, instilling a knowledge and pride in South Africa's culinary heritage.

WHAT IS THIS?

Bredie Spice
This is one of my own inventions:
30 ml ground coriander
10 ml ground cloves
15 ml ground nutmeg
10 ml ground pimento
Mix together and use with bredies and potjies.

Burghul
This is dehusked wheat, which is cracked and parboiled. Use it in salads, or as a starch.

Dukkah
Originating in the Middle East, dukkah is a mixture of spices pounded together. The combination may vary from family to family, but usually consists of sesame and coriander seeds, cumin, salt, pepper and sometimes hazelnut. This can be mixed with oil and used as a dip for bread, or used in salads or on pita bread.

Garam Masala
Garam means hot, and masala, a blend of spices.

This spice mixture is essential to Indian cuisine. It is sometimes sprinkled on a dish at the end of cooking, but usually it is added at the beginning of the cooking process for curry. Ready-made masala can be bought but it is much more fun to grind your own; you can develop your own special blend.

Here is a basic Garam Masala recipe:
15 ml cumin seeds
75 ml coriander seeds
30 ml cardamom seeds
4 bay leaves
30 ml black pepper corns
10 ml grated nutmeg
4 whole cinnamon sticks

Dry roast all the spices in a heavy frying pan for about 10 minutes until they turn dark brown and release their flavour. Grind to a fine powder in a mortar and pestle or electric coffee grinder. Store in an airtight container, preferably in the fridge, for up to 3 months.

Harissa
The name has three meanings in the kitchen: First, it is a red paste of chilli pepper used in Tunisia, Morocco and North Africa as a hot addition to any dish. Chili peppers, coriander, caraway, garlic and salt are pounded together, then moistened with olive oil. Secondly, it is a Tunisian dish that consists of seared green peppers, tomatoes and onions, which are peeled and pounded then flavoured with coriander, caraway and garlic. Thirdly, it is the name of a porridge-like soup of wheat and lamb prepared in Arab countries.

Muscovado sugar
This is a very moist, unrefined and unprocessed sugar with a nutty caramel flavour.

Pesto
Originally the pride of Genoa, the Italian seaport, pesto is a thick sauce that is excellent with pasta or fish – no cooking required. Pound together garlic, pine nut kernels, grated Parmesan, salt and fresh basil leaves in a mortar and pestle, then gradually add olive oil. These days creative chefs and cooks have made ‘pesto’ of many things such a rocket and walnut, or dhania and pecans. No matter what the combination, the idea stays the same.

Polenta
The staple dish of Northern Italy, polenta is a kind of coarse maize porridge, solid when cold, usually made of yellow maize meal. We know it better in South Africa as ‘pap’, which can be made with either white or yellow maize meal. It can be served hot or cold, used as a base for toppings or grilled.

Poppadom or Papad
This is an Indian lentil tortilla which, when fried in oil becomes crispy, almost like a potato chip. It is served as an accompaniment to curry.

Verjuice
This is the unfermented juice of unripened grapes. You get the very young green type, which has a very subtle sweet taste, and a rose-coloured variant, which has a more acidic, lemony taste.

MUSSELS IN WHITE WINE

This is a classic dish made famous by the Belgians. Serve the mussels with crispy chips and some home-made mayonnaise.

2,5 kg mussels
1 clove garlic
1 onion
40 g butter
250 ml dry white wine
3 sticks celery with leaves
chopped parsley
salt and pepper
(Serves 5)

If using fresh mussels, clean then very carefully, washing in several changes of water to remove the sand and making sure they are all shut tightly. Put in a large pan with all the ingredients except the parsley, bring to the boil and cook for about 5 minutes until the shells open. Serve at once in bowls with the stock and sprinkled with parsley.

CURRIED FISH WITH PEACH RELISH

500 g hake, cut into 125 g or smaller portions, coated in flour and deep-fried
2 onions, halved and sliced
1 small green pepper, seeded and chopped
15 ml vegetable oil
10 ml mild curry powder
5 ml salt
5 ml crushed garlic
2,5 ml coarsely ground black pepper
2,5 ml ground allspice
250 ml cider vinegar

Peach Relish
400 g tin peach slices, drained and coarsely chopped
1 onion, chopped
1 clove garlic, crushed
½ cayenne chilli, deseeded and chopped
50 g chopped dhania
zest and juice of 1 lemon
(Serves 6)

Sauté the onion and green pepper in the oil until soft. Add all the spices and fry for 1 minute, then add the cider and bring to the boil. Let the marinade cool, then pour it over the fried fish and marinade for 24 hours. Mix all ingredients for the relish together and allow to rest in the refrigerator for 24 hours to let the flavours marry.

To serve Arrange the fish on a bed of lettuce with the relish on the side and serve with freshly baked bread and butter.

WHOLE ROASED FILLET OF BEEF WITH PECAN MASH AND SALSA VERDE

While living in Namibia, I was introduced to the joys of salsa verde by friends of mine, Izak and Liz Coetzee. I have re-invented this classic sauce with many dishes. This dish is particularly wonderful done on the fire or in a Weber.

2 kg whole beef fillet
45 ml Khoi Sea Salt
45 ml coarsely ground black pepper
100 g coriander seeds, roasted and coarsely ground
olive oil for brushing
15 ml extra olive oil
Salsa verde (See page 89)

Pecan Mash
1 large potato per person, peeled and cut into small pieces
2 onions, finely diced and sautéed
100 g pecan nuts, roasted and chopped
100 g butter
150 ml milk
(Serves 6)

Preheat the oven to 180°C. Trim the fillet and tie into a sausage with string or netting to retain the shape. Sprinkle the sea salt, black pepper and coriander seeds in a pan. Brush the fillet with olive oil and roll in the salt mixture until well covered.

Place a large pan on the stove on a high heat, add the extra olive oil and seal the meat until browned on all sides. Transfer to a rack in a roasting tin and place in the oven for about 25 minutes or cooked to your taste.

Cook the potatoes until soft. Pour off the water, add the butter and mash. Add the milk as needed. Once the mash is smooth, add the onions and nuts and serve.

VEGETARIAN LASAGNE

Lasagne is like bobotie: everyone thinks their recipe is the best ever. Now, I would not be this presumptuous, but Hadley Titus, the front of house manager of the Artscape theatre, believes that I make the best vegetarian food.

1 medium onion, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, crushed
50 ml vegetable oil
30 ml butter
2 carrots, finely chopped
2 stalks of celery, finely chopped
500 g brown mushrooms, sliced
150 ml white wine
250 ml vegetable stock
250 g precooked lasagne sheets
250 g mozzarella, thinly sliced
75 g Parmesan cheese, grated
salt
white sauce (see pg 56) made with 125 ml milk and 125 ml vegetable stock
(Serves 4)

Fry the onion and garlic in a mixture of the vegetable oil and butter, then add the carrots, celery and mushrooms. Fry until the mushrooms are tender. Add the wine and stock. Bring to the boil and reduce by half. Season. Preheat the oven to 180°C. Grease a baking dish and dot the bottom with white sauce, then line the base with one quarter if the lasagne sheets. Top with half of the vegetable/mushroom mixture, then top that with half of the mozzarella slices. Spread with some of the white sauce then sprinkle with a third of the Parmesan. Top with lasagne sheets. Repeat this process until the ingredients are used up, ending with white sauce sprinkled with Parmesan. Bake for 30 minutes and serve with a green salad.

BOEBER CARAMEL

100 g butter
125 ml angel hair pasta, broken
2 cardamom pods
2 sticks cinnamon
30 ml muscovado sugar
1 litre milk
10 ml rosewater
3 egg yolks
150 g white sugar
(Serves 8)

Preheat the oven to 180°C. Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the angel hair pasta, cardamom pods and cinnamon sticks and fry over a low heat until the pasta is tender. Remove the cardamom pods and cinnamon sticks. Remove from the heat and add the rosewater and egg yolks. Grease 8 dariole moulds. Caramelise the sugar and pour some of the caramel into the moulds. Fill the moulds with the Boeber mixture, place in a bain marie and bake for 20-25 minutes. When firm to the touch, remove and allow to rest. Turn out onto a plate, decorate with sultanas and almonds and serve.

[ Home ] [ Up ]