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LET THE WORLD BE YOUR OYSTER
by
Leslie Back

‘Only another oyster would find an oyster beautiful,’
wrote Dr R. Hedeen in his definitive book on oysters. But to the true
aficionado oysters are a thing of beauty. Savour the sheer delight of a
succulent oyster feeling it slip, like silk, down your throat -
bliss!
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Once
you have relished your first oyster perhaps you will, like Casanova,
begin each day with 50 or so delectable molluscs, at their best and most
natural. Serve simply chilled with just a squeeze of fresh lemon and
maybe a grind of black pepper (Oyster Nirvana). Ideally, nothing should
be added that diminishes their delicate true flavour.
Nature provides the added bonus of
oysters being a natural
source of minerals such as calcium, copper and iron. They are rich in iodine and certain proteins that embody amino
acids of which glutamine acid is one. This helps keep the cholesterol low in the blood. They do contain
a small amount of cholesterol, so for those with a history of heart
disease, the intake of dietary cholesterol should be monitored.
Oysters are low in saturated fats and carbohydrates and
provide vitamins A, B12 and C. Added
to this Aladdin’s Cave of goodness are Omega 3 fatty acids linked
to reduction in heart disease.
Zinc
is its most highly touted property, which plays a renowned role in
the development of sexual hormones, is certainly good for circulation
and strengthening the body’s immune system, but overwhelmingly
extolled for its alleged enhancement of the human libido.
Oysters are found naturally in the ocean where they
attach themselves to hard structures or rest on the seabed. Predators or strong waves and currents can unfortunately easily
remove them.
Until recently wild
oysters were enough to satisfy peoples’
needs. However, the supply
has dwindled and today the problem has become so serious that some
oyster beds have vanished entirely - plundered by natural enemies, water
pollution and their greatest enemy, man.
Fortunately, as far back as the early 1900’s, marine
biologists anticipated the situation and realised that new measures had
to be taken to cultivate oysters. Farming them in seeded oyster beds
using sophisticated methods, which today yield excellent results.
The Pacific oyster, regarded as the elite of cultivated
oysters all over the world, is indigenous to countries such as Japan and
Korea. These have been introduced into the Knysna Lagoon in South Africa
and are fast croppers, reaching maturity in eighteen
months.
Besides
the Pacific variety the Knysna Lagoon also cultivates oysters whose seeds
originate from hatcheries in Chile and France.
When
harvested oysters are brought back to land, thoroughly cleaned and graded by
size (Cultivated oysters come in cocktail, medium and large sizes). Then placed in crates in well-aerated shallow
concrete dams with a plentiful supply of fresh seawater. These dams are drained every day for a few hours, so that the
oysters can once again become accustomed to being out of the water.
When an order is received, the oysters are removed from the dams,
washed and packed for dispatch.
Wild oysters are hand picked off the rocks along the
coast. They are full of taste and flavour - quite an overwhelming
experience - and grow to a size that is impossible to slurp
whole and requires a good few bites.
Slurping sounds crude, but
that is the way it's done!

In a nutshell,
( should that be an oyster shell!), oceans
and hatcheries all over the world provide delicious oysters, some
more famous than others.
In Europe, the French are
renowned for their Belon
Oysters, also the green- tinged Marennes. The Belon, native to Brittany,
is according to
some oyster lovers the most classic oyster of all. It is round, symmetrical, always flavourful and expensive.
The Marennes, too, is designated according to the rather
complicated French system as superior in quality, while the Fines de Claires are special oysters reared to
justify their name and their clarity, the meaning of Claire.
America,
rich in oysters, has among many others the popular Blue Point,
originating in Long Island. The English, their Colchester, Helford and
Whitstable oysters. The Irish enjoy Galway oysters, especially during
the Autumn Galway Oyster Festival. These are the best of the local
native oysters reared in the unpolluted Atlantic waters.
It
interesting to know that it was as early as the 4th century BC that the Greeks
were cultivating these fabulous molluscs.
Colder weather announces the season to feast on oysters. The basic premise that oysters should only be eaten in months
without an R is challenged by today’s widespread refrigeration, which
keeps them cool during hot weather. Oysters spawn in hot weather.
Spawning
occurs when the oyster is
carrying a gelatinous mass of eggs, whitish in colour. They are very simple creatures and their entire reproductive
cycle is based on water temperature. When the water gets warm, the oysters get reproductive.
There are basically
three conditions applicable to a
full-grown oyster.
First
- A
fat healthy oyster that is full of flavour. This condition will be affected by the food and fresh water the
oyster is receiving. It follows that when an oyster is fat and healthy
and full of glycogen, it is often mistaken for being spawny, i.e.
carrying a lot of eggs. This
is not the case in this instance. Just
because the flesh is white, does not mean the oyster is spawning.
The
Second condition, occurring during summer, is when
the oyster changes from being fat with glycogen to being full of protein
in preparation for reproduction. Here
the belly of the oyster gets soft and creamy.
The Third step is after spawning; the oyster becomes
very watery and clear and lacking in flavour.
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Q.
Can one eat spawning oysters?
A.
One can, it is a matter of taste.
Q.
Are watery oysters inferior?
A.
No.
Again it is a matter of taste and preference. French oysters tend to be thinner and slightly watery, as oyster
beds in France are so overcrowded. European chefs prefer this style of oyster.
Asian and American Chefs prefer a fat oyster that fills
the shell.
Q.
How does one verify that an oyster is spawning?
A.
If there
are sharp striations (lines and ridges) on the belly, it is not
spawning, just fat.
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Bottom
Line...
Explaining ‘Oyster – speak’
Bivalve - 2 valves or shells
Mollusc - belonging to a group of shellfish that are soft bodied and hard
shelled.
Always keep oysters
well chilled until eaten or cooked.
When buying oysters ensure they are still alive. An indication of this is that their shells are closed and remain
so when tapped. An oyster
that is open after being taken out of the water is not fresh and should
be discarded.
Buy from a reputable store where freshness is guaranteed.
Especially choose a store that has a fast turnover. Oysters can be
extremely toxic if bad.
A bad oyster has a very strong and unpleasant smell, so it is
easy to identify. If eaten
raw they may carry bacteria that can cause poisoning. People with impaired immune systems, chronic diseases and
pregnant women should not eat oysters. It is important to mention that some people are allergic to
shellfish and can experience serious reactions. In these situations oysters must therefore be avoided.
Look for oysters that are firmly closed and stored between
5ºC (41degrees F) and 10ºC (48 degrees F). Always keep oysters very cool until eaten or cooked.
Fresh oysters can be kept for up to two days and shelled oysters
can be frozen successfully for up to three months.
Dedicated oyster eaters prefer eating oysters on the half shell,
served on crushed ice and as cold as possible.
Oysters can be cooked. There are several legendary dishes known
to oyster fundis. Delicious
Angels on Horseback, Decadent Oysters in Champagne, Fascinating Oysters
Florentine and exciting Garlic Baked Oysters to name a few. They are special in soups, sauces and many other exotic dishes.
Never overcook them or you will find them curling at the edges.
Opening oysters or SHUCKING, as this process is known,
requires a special knife or implement. This takes skill and practice. The trick is to open it without losing any of the
liquor inside. Not easy.
Some oysters are stubborn and do not take kindly to
being tampered with, so be careful not to cut or stab yourself.
A tough knob on the underside connects the oyster to the
shell and has to be severed in order to open it.
Open it – fork out the oyster and drink the liquor
from the shell – heaven! However, easier said than done. If eating in a
restaurant, they will do the hard work for you.
What to drink with
oysters? Here personal taste prevails. The famous combination is
Oysters & Black Velvet. This is a mixture of champagne and creamy
stout. Champagne on its own is a perfect accompaniment. Crisp dry white wine is also ideal.
The
cream of oysters from Emily's, Peter Veldsman and Johan
Odendaal's award winning
restaurant at the Clock Tower in the V&A Waterfront.
Johan
prepared a favourite way with oysters - extract of carrot, vodka and
fresh dill. Baked oysters in a champagne sauce and oysters Florentine
on the half shell.
EMILY'S
RESTAURANT
Suite
202 Top Floor, The Clock Tower, V&A
Waterfront, Cape Town
Open Mon-Sat for lunch and dinner. Closed on Sundays.
Tel: +27 (21) 421-1131
See www.emily-s.com/Emilys/emilys.html
Photography
By Franz Lauinger
©Leslie Back - To The Point -
www.showcook.com

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