Painting
was Pam's profession, but food was her passion.
"Since we all have to eat and therefore cook," Pam always said,
"cookery is the one universal art form accessible to all!"
Pam
Hirschsohn, a brave and feisty woman, lost her battle with cancer about
the time that a TREASURY OF RECIPES was published by Don Nelson in 1988,
but Pam has remained a vivid presence for those that shared and enjoyed
her love of food, her artistry and great hospitality. Enjoy the first in
a two part series.
In a
TREASURY OF RECIPES Pam combined both passions, illustrating her dishes
with a series of fresh as a breeze pastels in rich and gorgeous tones.
Recipes were gleaned from families and friends over the years reflecting
the lifestyle and abundance of the Cape, the Mediterranean climate and
the multitude of indigenous flavours, which spice local cuisines such as
Malay and Indian. Culinary traditions "In short," as Pam
wrote, "The hotch-potch, which makes 'The Tavern of the Seas such a
fascinating place!"
It was
at that time that Pam formed 'The Four Seasons' consisting of a group of
friends, who met together to prepare innovative, always stunning and
memorable dinners or luncheons, often experimenting but always sharing
both the chores and the pleasures of the table.
FRESH ARTICHOKES
WITH BERRY SAUCE
In this
recipe the flavour of freshly cooked artichokes (or asparagus, for that
matter is complemented with a sauce with a difference.
6-8 artichokes (leave
on 2-3 cm stem)
Berry Sauce
225
raspberries or strawberries
250 ml (1 cup) sunflower oil
30-45 ml (2-3 tbsp) raspberry vinegar (or any fruit vinegar)
salt and
black pepper
pinch of sugar (optional)
(Serves 6-8)
Preparing fresh
artichokes:
From late
September until early November is artichoke time. These delicacies make
light, mouth watering starters which are very popular with my family and
guests. Here’s how to go about preparing them.
Take a sharp knife
and remove a few of the tough outer leaves. Invert artichokes in salted
water for about 30 minutes to eliminate all ‘goggas’.
Place artichokes
upright in a saucepan which is just large enough to hold them, pour in
enough cold water to cover them and add 15 ml (1 tbsp) salt, 30 ml (2
tbsp) oil (this makes the leaves glossy) and the juice of 1-2 lemons.
Boil for about 45-50 minutes; they are ready when the outer leaves feel
as though they are about to pull free. Remove artichokes from the pot
and drain.
Slice artichoke in
two vertically, from tip to stem. Place face down on a greased baking
sheet and grill for a few minutes, watching well. (You will probably
need to make this recipe a few times before deciding how much grilling
the artichokes need.) Remove and cool.
Berry sauce:
Liquidise raspberries or strawberries (strain raspberries to eliminate
pips.) Return purée to blender or processor and, with the machine
running, slowly add oil in a steady stream. Add vinegar, salt, pepper
and sugar and blend well.
To serve:
Place artichoke halves facing upward on a plate with a pool of raspberry
or strawberry sauce alongside.
MY MOTHER’S
PICKLED HERRING SALAD
6 salt Bismarck
herrings or bottled herrings
250 ml (1 cup) chopped onion
250 ml (1 cup) chopped apple (preferably Granny Smith)
Dressing:
125 ml (½ cup) oil
60 ml (4 tbsp) sugar
250 ml (1 cup) vinegar
250 ml (1 cup) tomato purée
5 ml (1 tsp) prepared mustard
pinch of pepper
(Serves 4)
Soak salt herring
overnight in tepid water, fillet and clean (bottled herring need only be
soaked for 30 minutes). Pat dry and cut into small pieces. Blanch onion
in boiling water. Mix dressing ingredients and pour over herring, apple
and onion. Keep in the refrigerator for at least 3 days before serving.
Serve with rye or black bread.
RISOTTO WITH A DRY
WHITE WINE
I enjoyed
this risotto in San Gimignano, an Italian hill town set high on a
Cliffside, with towers dating from the eleventh century, which give it a
unique ‘sky-scraper’ appearance. The hotel’s restaurant has a
wondrous view overlooking the valley below, with its golden wheat,
richly green vineyards and flamboyant fields of sunflowers, creating a
patchwork or visual excitement.
250 ml (1 cup) rice
(See Cook’s Note)
30 ml (2 tbsp) butter
30 ml (2 tbsp) olive oil
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
1 medium onion, finely chopped
2 sage leaves or (2 ml/½ tsp) dried sage
125 ml (½ cup) crisp dry white wine
750 ml (3 cups) chicken stock (homemade if possible)
Garnish:
mushrooms, prawns or
whatever else takes your fancy
grated Parmesan cheese to taste(Serves 2 as a main
course)
In a large, heavy–bottomed
pan melt butter, then add oil. Cook garlic, rice, onion and sage,
stirring until rice is golden. Add wine and when it has been absorbed,
add 1 cup stock; add another cup after this has been absorbed and cook
slowly covered, for about 20 minutes. Add remainder of stock and cook
until risotto is tender. (To enjoy the creaminess of this dish, don’t
try to make the rice fluffy.)
Cook sliced mushrooms
lightly, colour prawns in butter and toss into risotto. Serve in
old-fashioned, wide soup bowls. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese at the
table only, because this immediately makes it heavier in texture.
Cook’s Note:
The correct rice to use is the short-grained ‘Arborio’, but I have
experimented successfully with Tastic.
TIPS
FOR LEMONS
Lemons are so
versatile but, alas, there are times of the year when they are not
readily available. You can of course preserve lemons, but have you ever
thought of freezing them for out-of-season emergencies?
Simply toss whole
lemons into the freezer. Once thawed, they are as juicy and tangy as
ever and even the rind, grated, makes a tasty addition to a casserole or
seafood dish.
Alternatively slice
lemons, package and freeze. Pop a frozen slice into your favourite drink
and voilà you have a refreshing flavour and an instant ‘ice cube’
to boot.
CANDIED LEMON OR
ORANGE RIND
A
deliciously refreshing garnish for ice creams, puds or even roast
chicken or duck.
Remove the rind of 6
lemons or oranges with a potato peeler or zester. Place in a small
saucepan, cover with 250 ml (1 cup) water and cook for about 20 minutes.
Add 250 ml (1 cup) sugar and cook for 10-15 minutes, until rind is
candied. Drain the syrup, separate the candied rinds and cool on a rack
over paper towels to absorb syrup drops. When completely cold, store in
an airtight container until ready for use.
ANGELFISH WITH
PRESERVED LEMONS & FENNEL
An Algerian
specialty with a fascinating flavour.
4 angelfish fillets
juice of one lemon
1 preserved lemon, cut into fine strips
1 fennel bulb, cut into fine strips
knobs of butter
(Serves 4)
Place fish fillets in
an ovenware dish, pour lemon juice over then, then put a knob of butter
on each fillet. Sprinkle with strips of preserved lemon and fennel, add
a few more knobs of butter and put into a very hot oven, or under a
preheated grill. Depending on their thickness, the fillets should be
ready in about 8 minutes.
PRESERVED LEMONS
This is a
wonderful way of using thick-skinned, knobbly Cape lemons, which are
plentiful in Cape gardens in the spring and are not as tart as the
common lemon.
22 lemons
125 ml (½ cup) salt
oil for topping
Cut 6 lemons into 6
segments each, cutting almost to the base but not completely through.
Open each lemon up like flowers, then put into an earthenware pot.
Sprinkle with salt. Squeeze the juice of the remaining lemons into a
saucepan. Heat to boiling point, then take off the stove immediately.
Pour juice over lemon ‘flowers’ and top with a little oil to prevent
them from going off. For best results store in refrigerator, covered,
for at least a month before using.
SPANISH BREAD
& BUTTER PUDDING
This is a
wonderfully old-fashioned dessert, yet it has a touch of grandeur that
makes it perfect for any dinner party. We enjoyed this dish in a very
simple roadside restaurant in Spain and, trying to recapture the
flavours at home, I poured over many books and found a similar version
in one of my mother’s notebooks. With some clever guess-work and a
little adaptation it captures all the intriguing flavours of the
original Spanish pud.
1,5 kg Golden
Delicious apples, peeled and sliced
white wine (for cooking apples)
275 g sugar
knob of butter
60-90 ml (4-6 tbsp) rum
pinch of salt
30 ml (2 tbsp) water
melted butter
11 small loaf of white bread, crusts removed and sliced
(Serves 10)
Preheat oven to
150ºC (300 F).
Cook apples in white
wine with 175 g of the sugar until thick and soft, like a purée. Add
knob of butter, rum, salt and jam. Beat eggs and add to apple mixture.
In a small saucepan melt remaining sugar over low heat until
caramel-coloured and bubbling. Add lemon juice and water and stir well.
Pour caramel into a metal ovenware mould and swirl it around to cover
base and a little of the sides. Melt butter, dip in bread slices and
press them onto the base and sides of the mould. Fill mould with apple
mixture and bake for about 40 minutes in a bain marie. Remove from the
oven, cool a little and turn out onto a serving platter.
To serve: This
dessert may be served lukewarm or chilled. Thick farm cream (available
at most farm stalks) is the perfect accompaniment.
Making ahead: The
entire pudding may be made the day before. Reheat in a bain marie at
100ºC (200 F) for 15 minutes.
© Pam
Hirschsohn's Treasury Of Recipes, Published by Don Nelson
