Having
encountered the wondrous tea shop, we came across a fascinating teapot shop, La
Maison de Thérèse, 17 Rue de la Odeon. About 95 different teapots, cups and
sugar bowls in the window, all sizes and amazing shapes; cats, dogs and
elephants! Some exquisite table ware, but totally dominated by the astonishing
variety of teapots, reminiscent of Alice
in Wonderland.
Time
out for dejeuner! Something light.
Many restaurants are air conditioned, but generally the implication then, is to
have a larger meal. We
strolled along the boulevard Saint-Germain and passed the wonderful Deux Magots.
The people eating at the pavement tables looked distinctly wilted. One or two steps further down, and we encountered the equally
famous Café de Flore. Like Les Deux Magots, it was a meeting place of
literary giants such as Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir and so many others.
After the war, Picasso came to Flore every night and sat at the same
table, the second table in front of the main door.
The
pavement tables were equally unwelcoming on that hot day, so we entered to find
it just as stifling. A charming
waiter suggested that we try the room upstairs, and they would switch on the air
conditioning for us - what a find! The air conditioning was switched on, the windows closed, and
the whole room became a comfortable haven.
Other
people trickled up the stairs, and soon the place was buzzing and we did not
feel that we were on a lonely desert island. Enjoy Salade Flore with a glass of
chilled Chablis. The salad ; eggs,
ripe tomatoes, fine slices of emmental cheese, crisp cos and butter lettuce and
piquant olives, perfect with a delicate vinaigrette dressing made only the way
the French can and of naturally a crisp fresh baguette. How wonderful it is to
eat in Paris! The interior is Art
Deco, brimming with a feeling of the richly colourful past and of the luminaries
that ate and drank there.
It is always fun sitting at a
pavement café. A cup of cafe au lait or a heady espresso, and one can just gaze at the passing pavement fashion. Everybody smokes in Paris, in spite
of the signs offering dire warnings prohibiting it. I think the French would rather go to jail than give up their
Gauloises. Cell phones everywhere, and everybody talking and
gesticulating, and of course dogs, every Frenchman loves dogs, and dogs go
everywhere. One major discovery is
that the pavements are clean. So flanerie is safer.
A
wonderful exhibition at the
Georges Pompidou Centre of Bauhaus furniture and artists of the time. The Centre
has been cleaned and refurbished and just glows. Nothing secret about this, but
good to know it is a reasonable walk to the Rue De Rivoli, and then another few
blocks to that wonderful tea shop
Angelina, where they make an excellent hot chocolate.
Classic French décor, choice patisserie and great entertainment
watching people watching everyone else.
Another
find; Denise Francelle, quaint and
special on the Rue de Rivoli., open since 1938, the owner has retired
just recently! It is a tiny gem, wooden drawers overflowing with gloves, magical silk scarves, exquisitely
embroidered linen handkerchiefs and the most delicate underwear, even garters,
but so very discreet. It seems that
they have customers all over the world and were quite prepared to post anything
I wished to South Africa. The
gloves especially caught my attention with a large collection of cotton gloves of all sizes,
lengths and colours. So difficult
to find.
Decisions,
decisions - where to eat at night! What an
astounding choice there is. L’appart on the right bank at 9&11 rue du
Colisée, just off the Champs Elysées is a favoured choice.
The name is short for apartment and the décor follows that theme. The
refreshing gazpacho that they make in summer is a treat.
The rather amazing thing about this restaurant is that it appears to be
run solely by really attractive girls, the only man we spotted was the barman.
It was suggested that we sit in
the library a room with floor to ceiling books and in the summer it is beautifully
cool. Gambas, prawns in a superb
sauce were a main course. The dessert crepes are a talking point. About 6 plain
unfolded crepes are served, tiny, surrounded by fillings to choose from; two
styles of confiture, creamy white cheeses and fresh cream.
Such fun and a great idea. It is essential to make reservations (Telephone 01 53 75 16
34) and incidentally it is open for lunch.
We have
a delightful place where we spend time on a Sunday, the vast and beautiful Luxembourg
Gardens. There is a bandstand placed under the trees surrounded by hundreds of metal folding chairs,
randomly placed. We try to get
there soon after lunch to secure a couple of seats in the shade. At about noon,
bands, including those visiting from
America, take the stand, and entertain through the
whole summery afternoon. It is all free, and there is a
little café nearby in the gardens, where ice cream, snacks and drinks are sold.
This is within walking distance of our hotel, and a lovely way to spend a
relaxing Sunday afternoon.
In
Paris on a Sunday, finding restaurants open, is always problematical. We have one or two
however we go to regularly.
One is that great big Art Deco theatre of dining, La Coupole, and another
we found on our wanderings, Crêmerie Restaurant Polidor. This bustling
restaurant dates back to early 20th
century. Art Deco in appearance, the walls are decoratively mirrored and
gloriously etched
with flowers and silver rings. Many diplomas are in evidence and wines are
written on the mirrors. It is jammed with tables, and bookings are not taken.
The result is quite convivial and you find that you share tables. The service is swift and efficient, and dinner is not
a lengthy affair.
Champignons
à la Grécque
and tomates mozzarella were a good beginning. Chicken in tarragon, the main
course was over in an hour.
We did not feel rushed however, and there was plenty of time to stroll to
Deux Magots and enjoy a coffee. A
lovely way to end a lazy Sunday.
At 41 rue
Cherche-Midi, on the
Left Bank in the 6th Arrondisement, we came across a charming boutique, Celimene Pompon,
jammed with treasures; beautiful tapestries,
embroidery and gifts.
It really is remarkable how many small and interesting places one
encounters when one is strolling and casually browsing.
Wandering around the Marais
District, we came across a renowned olive oil shop, Oliviers
& Co. at 47, Rue Vieille du Temple. In the store were huge casks some wrapped in sacking,
presumably the better quality oils. Apart from
a wide variety of oils, there were
displays of tapenade and wheat biscuits - delicious! Slotted spoons were available to
remove olives from pottery pots. All
kinds of olives, large and small, some flavoured, and of course all plump and
tempting. There were potted olive plants on sale, and every
style of soap
and toiletries made from olive oil were available.
We have found wonderful
restaurants in the little side streets, among them welcoming La Table D’aude,
recommended by food writer, Patricia Wells. It is a tiny restaurant at 8,
rue de Vaugirard and serves regional dishes from the Aude area of France. The owner
chef is totally passionate about his cuisine. Their fish soup is among the best in Paris. How
he manages to create the taste and appearance of a Bouillabaisse from the South
of France is a mystery?
The
duck is superb! My husband, Eugene, dared to suggest white wine with the duck, the owner
shuddered with horror and suggested that he eat something else or come back another
day!
Red wine won the day! He makes the
most amazing beans in garlic as a starter, but for this dish one needs a strong
French stomach.
In the immediate vicinity, there
are other favourite restaurants. They
are Chez Maître Paul at 12 rue Monsieur-le-Prince with cuisine and wine from the
Jura district of France; and La Bastide D’Odeon at 7 rue Corneille. This is a modern bistro where
you can enjoy simple but delightful meals.
We stumbled upon a corner café,
Le Nemrod at 51 Rue de Cherche-Midi. It
is a meeting spot for the neighbourhood, where food, service and wine are all
good. There is more attention lavished on customers than the usual lunch café.
The salads are copious and inventive, and reasonably priced.
There are a great many museums to
visit, and whilst visiting the Musée D’orsay is no secret, my pleasure is to find something precious and special. They have a way of moving things around, so it is
a feeling of
achievement when one encounters a familiar favourite. Visit The Jeu de Paume
and drink in the amazing Matisse water lilies.
Successive
visits to Paris yields new charms. Flanerie remains a
fascinating way to discover these secrets. As you stroll, wander and idle
along the boulevards, meander through the winding streets, this enthralling city
reveals a plethora of treasures.
Soupe a
l'Oignon
4 large onions, finely
sliced
2 tbsp bacon fat
1 litre homemade chicken stock
2-3 tbsp sherry
4 slices French Bread, toasted
½ cup gruyere cheese, grated
(Serves 2-4)
Onion Soup
Brown onions in bacon fat, over low heat until transparent. Add
stock and sherry. Cover and simmer for 20 minutes. Place toast slices
in deep casserole. Spread cheese over the toast. Pour over soup gradually and place in
180ºC oven for 15 minutes.
Moules
Mariniere
1 litre fresh
mussels
½ cup chopped spring onions
1/4 cup chopped celery
2 tbsp butter
1 cup dry white wine
salt and freshly ground pepper
½ tsp lemon juice
2 tbsp butter
1 tbsp chopped parsley or chives
(Serves 2-4)
Mussels
in White Wine
Wash and scrub mussels well in several waters. Sauté spring onions and
celery in butter until tender. Add mussels and wine and boil until
shells open. Remove mussels and keep warm. Reduce sauce by one half and
add lemon juice, butter bit by bit and seasoning with parsley or chives.
Pour sauce over mussels and serve in a piping hot deep bowl.
Caneton a
L'Orange
2 ducks,
quartered
4 tbsp butter
4 tbsp vegetable oil1
1 tsp Worcestershire sauce
4 drops Tabasco
2 cups sweet white wine
sea salt and milled black pepper
3 tbsp Grand Marnier or other orange liqueur
2 oranges, peeled and segmented
(Serves 2- 4)
Duck with
Orange Sauce
Brown duck quarters in hot butter and vegetable oil.
Add Worcestershire, Tabasco, wine, salt and pepper. Simmer covered until ducks are
tender and sauce has reduced to about 1/2. Stir Grand Marnier into gravy. Remove
ducks to warm place and sauté orange slices until warm. Remove orange segments,
pour over ducks and garnish with orange segments.
©
Leslie Back
