The Sephardi Culinary Tradition
Part III

The Sephardi Culinary Tradition pays tribute to a small pocket of Sephardi Jews who found refuge there after they fled Spain in 1492.  Old Spanish or Ladino remained their language, Spanish poems, songs and music were imbedded in their culture. A vanished culture, which was ancient in origin, rich in diversity and loyal in its faith.

Lindos:the Temple of Athena.

Elsie Menasce evokes the custom for every Sephardi housewife to prepare many kinds of biscuits and cakes before festive periods, but certain favourites such as Resikas are baked almost all the year round.

Eggs and almonds are popular ingredients and pastry is made with oil. Pounded almond serves as a flour substitute and flavouring in many varieties of cakes and biscuits. Cinnamon mixed with sugar or sesame seeds are sprinkled over sweets and biscuits.  

De tu pan no me arti de tu palávra me comforti.
Although your bread did not satisfy my appetite, your words of comfort sustained me. 

RESIKAS 
Sesame Oil Biscuits

1 cup sugar
3 eggs
1 cup oil
3/4 cup orange juice or water
8 cups self-raising flour (approximately)

Preparaton:
45 minutes
Cooking time: 15 minutes a tray plus 1 hour to crisp
Temperature: 180ºC
Makes: 100

Beat sugar and eggs. Beat in oil, then orange juice or water. Fold in enough flour to make a soft dough. Add cinnamon. Knead, then put through a mincer with a 1 cm hole attachment. Break off small pieces and roll into pencil thin ropes. Shape into pretzel. Brush with beaten egg then coat with sesame seed and arrange on oiled, floured baking sheet or aluminium foil. Bake at 180ºC for 20-25 minutes. 

To crisp, turn heat down to 100ºC. Pile biscuits into oven pan, return to oven, turn off heat and allow to crisp for 1 hour. Cool. Store in airtight tin for up to a month. If they soften, crisp again in a 150ºC oven.

Cinnamon and sugar may be substituted for sesame seeds.

 

BUMWELOS
Crisp Doughnuts

1 tbsp dry or 30 g fresh yeast
1 tsp sugar
pinch salt
2 cups warm water
3 cups flour
oil to fry
2 tsp cinnamon

Syrup
3 tbsp honey
3 tbsp sugar
3 tbsp water
Preparation:  30 Mins
Makes: 30

Mix yeast, sugar and salt with 1 cup of the warm water. Allow yeast to froth (10 minutes). Add remaining cup of water and enough flour to make a very soft sticky dough, almost liquid. Allow to rise for 15-20 minutes. Heat enough oil to deep-fry. Moisten hands to prevent dough sticking and take a walnut sized piece of dough. Form a hole in the middle by pulling outwards with fingers. Drop rings of dough, 3 at a time, into hot oil and deep-fry for 3 minutes until they are golden and float to the surface. Drain on absorbent paper. Boil honey, sugar and water together to form a syrup. Spoon syrup over bumwelos and sprinkle with cinnamon. Serve at once. 

Traditionally served at Chanuka.

MARROCINOS 
Almond Macaroons

450 g blanched almonds, ground
1 ¾ cups sugar
1 small egg white
3 cups water
3 egg whites, stiffly beaten
Preparation: 20 Mins
Makes: 40

Boil sugar, 1 egg white and water to syrup. Skim off scum, which forms on top. Remove from heat and add almonds gradually, mixing well. Return to low heat, stirring constantly and vigorously until mixture leaves sides of pot. Remove from heat and fold in stiffly beaten egg whites. Spoon into small paper cups and bake at 180ºC for 20 minutes until pale gold.

MULUPITAS 
Light Biscuits

4 eggs
2 heaped cups sugar
4 tsp oil
2 ½ heaped cups flour
1 tsp baking powder
1 tsp vanilla essence
rind of 1 lemon or orange
Preparation: 20 Mins
Makes: 60

Beat eggs well, adding sugar gradually. Add oil. In a separate bowl mix dry ingredients and fold into egg mixture with vanilla and citrus rind. Oil and flour a baking sheet, or line with greaseproof paper. Place teaspoonfuls of mixture on baking sheet. Allow 1,5 cm between biscuits as they will expand. Bake at 190ºC for 10 minutes. When pale gold, remove and cool on a tray. Store in airtight tin.

MINENAS 
Date Shortbread

Pastry
125 g margarine or butter
2 ½ tbsp icing sugar
1 egg
1 tsp vanilla essence
2 cups flour (approximately)
icing sugar

Filling
250 g dates, chopped
¾ cup walnuts, chopped
rind of 1 lemon or orange
1 ½ tbsp water
1 tsp ground cloves and cinnamon
1 tbsp butter
Preparation: 25 Mins
Makes: 30

Cream margarine and sugar, add egg, vanilla essence and flour. Blend to a soft dough. Reserve. Mix filling ingredients together. Divide pastry into walnut-sized balls Roll each into a 6 cm round. Place 1 tsp of filling in centre of pastry circle. Lift edges of pastry on both sides. Bring together, closing the pastry over filling and roll slightly to tidy shape. Press fork tines diagonally across pastries to decorate. Line baking sheet with wax paper. Arrange pastry rolls 2 cm apart. Bake at 180ºC until golden about 20 minutes. Cool. Sprinkle generously with icing sugar.

PAN ESPONGADO 
Sponge Cake

6 eggs
1 ½ cups sugar
2 cups flour, sifted
½ cup oil
2 tsp baking powder
1 tbsp orange blossom essence, diluted, or 1 tsp vanilla essence with 1 ½ tsp water
Preparation: 10 Mins
Makes: 32 squares

Beat eggs and sugar well until pale yellow. Add flour and oil alternately, then baking powder and flavouring. Oil a large funnel mould or rectangular ovenware dish and pour in cake mixture. Bake in centre of oven at 180ºC for 40 minutes. Cake keeps for a week in a sealed tin. If desired, cut into rush shapes and bake for 1 hour at 100ºC until crisp. Traditionally served cut into squares at the breaking of the fast. 

GATEAU DE DATLE 
Date Loaf

2 tbsp sugar
5 eggs
1 tbsp oil
1 tsp vanilla
1 cup chopped walnuts
1 cup dates, soaked in ¾ cup boiling water, then chopped
5 tbsp flour
1 tsp baking powder
Preparation: 20 Mins
Make: 1

Beat sugar and eggs until lemon-coloured. Add oil, vanilla, nuts, dates, flour and baking powder. Mix gently. Pour into greased loaf tin and bake for 45 minutes at 190°C.

THE SEPHARDI CULINARY TRADITION
Author Elsie Menasce
Food Photography by Volker Miros

Published by The Sephardi Cookbook Corporation Publishers

See Part I

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Last modified: June 06, 2008