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SOUPS
THAT ARE COOL
With Oded Schwartz
On
a hot summer evening when the appetite is waning, there is nothing as
appetising and refreshing as a chilled summer soup. Therefore it is not
surprising that most cuisines have developed a fascinating range of summer
soups.
The Eastern Europeans
have their cold borscht and sour fruit
kissels, the Balkan their tarator – yoghurt soup flavoured with cucumber,
garlic and mint, and the Spanish have their famous, substantial gazpacho.
Then there are the intriguing flavours of chilled melon, emerald green
spinach, carrot and beetroot soups. Ring the changes with vegetables and
fruits and serve cool soups with an innovative touch.
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The
following is a small collection of my favourite summer recipes. However, let me stress one
point - the quality of the
final product is directly dependent on the quality of the ingredients you
use. Therefore, when stock is called for, use home made stock. Well made
stocks improve any soup.
If
you are in a hurry and must use stock cubes, improve the stock by adding a
diced carrot and onion, a few stalks of celery and parsley, a few
fresh herbs and simmer for 30 minutes. It is well worth it.
QUICK BEETROOT BORSCHT
Although
this version makes a good hot soup, it is best as a cold drink, which can
be served either as a starter or as a refreshing drink during or after a
summer meal. For special occasion add, to each portion, a tot of Vodka,
Gin or even better - 50 ml of chilled Champagne.
1kg
beetroot, peeled and grated
1.5 litres vegetable stock or water
4
sticks of celery with their leaves, tied together
juice
of 1 or more lemons
1 -
2 tbsp honey or sugar (optional)
1 - 2 tbsp finely chopped gherkin
sour
cream
(Serves 4-6)
Place
the grated beetroot in a deep stainless steel or enamel saucepan and cover with
stock or water. Add the celery and bring to the boil. Simmer at medium
heat for 30 minutes. Strain
the liquid through a fine sieve and return to the saucepan. Add the lemon juice
and honey (if used) and bring rapidly to the boil. Boil for a few seconds,
switch off the heat skim and either serve hot or chill well. Serve
sprinkled with chopped gherkin and a dollop of sour cream.
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COURGETTE & POTATO SOUP
A
refreshing
soup that can be enjoyed warm or chilled. The courgettes are used unpeeled and
grated on a coarse grater. When grating hold your courgette at a slant to
achieve the longest strands possible - like short spaghetti. Serve the
soup chilled with a dollop of sour cream or yoghurt.
1litre
chicken or vegetable stock or water
juice
of 1 or 2 lemons, to taste
1 tbsp (optional) sugar or honey
150 g
potato, peeled and sliced into 2.5cm cubes
300 g
courgettes coarsely grated
salt
2 tbsp chopped dill
(Serves 4)
Add lemon and sugar to the stock and bring to the boil. Add potatoes,
reduce the heat and simmer for about 15 minutes or until the potatoes are
almost done. Add courgettes and salt, bring rapidly to the boil,
boil for a minute or two and turn off the heat. Allow to cool and chill.
Add the dill and serve, with or without, sour cream or yoghurt.
GAZPACHO SOUP with a
twist!
1 medium
sized cucumber, peeled, seeded and coarsely chopped
5 ripe red tomatoes, peeled and finely diced
2 cans diced tomatoes
2 slices white bread (coarsely crumbled)
sea salt and milled black pepper
4 tbsp fresh coriander, chopped
2 tbsp fresh basil leaves, chopped
3 tsp garlic, crushed
4 tbsp olive oil
(Serves 2)
Place cucumber,
fresh and canned tomatoes in a blender or food processor, and remaining
ingredients and blend lightly until puréed but not smooth. Lightly
chill and serve with a skewer of pan fried prawns and yellow cocktail
tomatoes.
CHILLED AVOCADO SOUP
I am not an avocado fan but when I
was challenged by Annette to create a recipe for the article, I have
changed my mind. The result is a creamy, elegant, pale green soup,
refreshing and full of flavour.
Originally I have made it with
cream, which is delicious, but I found that a creamy, Greek style yoghurt
suits the avocado better and makes a lighter more refreshing soup.
1litre vegetable or chicken stock,
chilled
4 perfectly ripe avocados, chilled
juice and grated peel of 1 lemon
or more (to taste)
5 spring onion, finely chopped
1 or more red chilli, de-seeded
and finely chopped
250 ml Greek style yoghurt or cream
salt
1 tomato, peeled, deseeded and finely diced
small bunch of fresh coriander,
coarsely chopped
olive oil
(Serves 4 - 6)
Scoop out the avocado flesh into
a blender container, add the lemon juice and a little stock and process to
a smooth purée. Gradually add the rest of the stock and blend. Transfer to a bowl, add the lemon
rind, chilli, yoghurt and salt and mix well. Refrigerate, covered for at
least 2 hours.
To serve: plate the soup, sprinkle
each portion with some of the coriander and the diced tomato, drizzle
with a little excellent olive oil and serve immediately.
SPINACH
SOUP
1.5
kg fresh spinach
25 g butter
500 ml chicken stock
250 ml plain yoghurt
250 ml milk
3-4 ml salt and a pinch of coarsely ground pepper
5 ml lemon juice
(Serves 6)
Wash
spinach well under cold running water and pat dry. Place spinach
in a large saucepan with butter and simmer gently, stirring from
time to time, until it is just tender. Allow to cool slightly,
then liquidize or press through a sieve. Return to saucepan, add
chicken stock, plain yoghurt and milk, and bring to the boil.
Season with salt, pepper and lemon juice. Serve immediately.
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COLD ALMOND SOUP
The
following soup is a direct descendent of medieval Moorish/Spanish recipe,
and surprisingly makes a delicious and different summer soup. It tastes
wonderful with roasted almonds, but although the flavour is superb, the
beige colour of the soup might put people off. Add a drop of natural
bitter almond essence to intensify the almond flavour.
150 g
almonds, roasted, blanched and peeled
100 g bread, crustless, soaked in cold water
2 cloves of garlic
6 ice cubes
4 tablespoons good olive oil
juice of 1 lemon
sea salt
500 ml very cold water
a drop of almond essence
100 g cucumber chopped
100 g apple chopped
sprigs
of mint
(Serves 4)
Place
the almonds in the food processor and process, at high speed, until the
almonds are powdered. Squeeze the bread to exude as much moisture as
possible and add to the almonds together with the garlic, ice cubes, lemon
juice, zest and salt and process to a smooth cream.
With
the machine still running, gradually add the oil. Transfer the mixture
into a large serving bowl and serve, very cold, decorated with some of the
chopped apple and cucumber and a sprig of mint. The rest of the chopped
cucumber and apple is sent to the table separately so diners can help
themselves.

For
more on Oded Schwartz, consultant, food historian and author of the highly
acclaimed book 'Preserving', On Showcook See "Be
a devil and start experimenting with the wonderful world of chilli
flavouring; see CHILLIES."
Oded is giving classes
and demonstrations on preserving and other specialized subjects.
For more information, please contact Oded at odedschwartz@sentechsa.com
or (021) 426-2397
© Oded
Schwartz
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