SUPER SOUPS ON THE MENU

SHOWCOOK invited a bevy of well known cooks and food writers to send us their most delectable soup one that they enjoy serving to family and friends all year round. 

Winter or summer, they are bliss, the perfect comforter, warming in freezing weather and utterly refreshing chilled on a hot day. Soups are a great talking point and when well made can be memorable. 

To make excellent soup you simply have to have a good stock, preferably home-made, using either a base of meat, fish, poultry and vegetables plus appropriate seasonings. 

The most important point is of course consistency, a soup is not a substitute for porridge. Consommé should be thin and delicate, cream soups velvety and vegetable soups or those made with pulses should have a deep flavour. A good soup should have a particular character which reflects the main ingredient.

LANNICE'S INDONESIAN-STYLE SEAFOOD SOUP

This creation, inspired by a sojourn on the island of Bali, is crammed with typical Indonesian flavourings of garlic, ginger, chilli, lemon grass and coriander. Your preference may well be for a little more or less spice, so feel free to adjust the quantities. Fish stock is pivotal to success, so do make your own. Alternatively, substitute light chicken or vegetable stock. Peeled prawns or nuggets of crayfish may be used instead of fish and mussels, if you wish.

Indonesian cuisine has a myriad tantalizing flavours, heady, haunting aromas, a kaleidoscope of colours and the overlay of textures. Contrasts create equilibrium; chilli quenched by cooling coconut, crisply fried sidekicks with a dish of rice, hot sambals to perk up milder dishes, gentle condiments to temper the heat of curry.

800 g filleted fish
16 black mussels, scrubbed clean and bearded
16 prawns
1 onion, sliced
vegetable oil
2 litres (8 cups) fish stock
500 ml (2 cups) coconut cream
2 lemon leaves, lightly bruised
10 cm stem lemon grass, outer layer removed, lightly bruised
6 slices fresh ginger
4 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped
2 ml (½ tsp) turmeric (borrie)
5 ml (1 tsp) brown sugar
30 ml (2 tbsp) fish sauce
30 ml (2 tbsp) rice wine or medium dry sherry
1 red or green chilli, seeded and finely sliced
small bunch coriander, chopped (leaves and stems)
sea salt and milled black pepper
(Serves 8)

Skin the fish and cut it into large chunks. Rinse the mussels in cold water, then tip into a colander to drain. Peel the prawns. Fry the onion in a little oil in a large saucepan until golden. Stir in the stock and coconut cream, then the lemon leaves, lemon grass, ginger and garlic. Simmer very gently for about 15 minutes, partially covered. Set aside for 15 minutes for the flavours to infuse.

Shortly before serving, add the fish and prawns to the soup with the turmeric, brown sugar, fish sauce, rice wine or sherry, chilli and half the chopped coriander. Flavour with a little salt and pepper. Simmer uncovered for about 3 minutes until the seafood is barely cooked. 

Add the mussels, cover and simmer just until the shells open, which is when they’re cooked. Discard any that remain closed. 

To Serve: Serve the soup hot in deep, wide-brimmed bowls garnished with the remaining coriander. 

Make Ahead: There’s a natural half-way stage in this recipe, after the soup has been cooked and before the seafood is added. Chill seafood and soup separately for up to a day.

Posh Tip: Black mussels may be collected from the rocks at low tide and are also cultivated and sold fresh and frozen. A few simple rules apply to safe mussel‑eating. In tidal zones, collect from the deepest areas, where they’re further from the influence of shore pollution. More importantly, avoid areas which may be polluted, and watch for toxic tides.

Posh Quaffing: Phew! Garlic, ginger, chilli, lemon grass and coriander all conspire to challenge a vinous marriage. Gravitas is required and comes in the form of tropical tang from trendy viognier (usually oaked), or floral gewürztraminer in special late harvest style. Vanilla-oak infused chardonnay is a safe, if unimaginative, haven.

ELSA'S PUMPKIN SOUP 

1,5 kg pumpkin, peeled an seeded
125 g butter
salt to taste
freshly ground black pepper to taste
4 leeks white parts only thinly sliced
1, 5 litres chicken stock
300 ml double heavy cream extra for garnishing
1 tsp ground nutmeg
Chervil (optional) for garnishing
(Serves 4)

Cut pumpkin flesh into chunks and place in a roasting dish. Cut butter into cubes, then measure up 50 g and distribute over pumpkin. Season to taste and roast pumpkin in a preheated oven at 180°C for about 25 minutes or until the flesh is soft. Remove and set aside to cool. Melt remaining butter in a saucepan. Add leeks and cook until soft and golden, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon. Pour in stock and season to taste. 

Simmer for about 20 minutes. Add roasted pumpkin and cook for a further 10 minutes. Remove from heat. Add cream and nutmeg, then transfer to a blender (processor) to purée. 

Serve garnished with extra cream and chervil, if using. 

JENNY'S CREAM OF TOMATO SOUP WITH CHILLI AND PRAWNS

3 tbsp unsalted butter
2 leeks, finely chopped
1 kg really ripe tomatoes, skinned, deseeded and chopped
2 cloves garlic, crushed
1 bouquet garni
1 red chilli, finely chopped
½ tsp sugar
1 tbsp tomato purée
4 cups chicken stock
200 g prawns, cleaned with heads still on
1 tbsp flour
1 cup cream
salt and freshly ground black pepper
fresh parsley, chopped (as garnish)
(Serves 6)

In a large saucepan, heat the butter, add the leeks and cook gently for 5 minutes. Stir in tomatoes, garlic, bouquet garni, chilli, sugar, tomato purée and chicken stock and simmer for 25 minutes. Remove from heat and strain.

Return to the saucepan, add prawns and simmer gently for 7 minutes. Combine and mix the flour and cream, smoothing out any lumps, add to the soup and simmer for 7 minutes – adjust seasoning. Serve with freshly chopped parsley as a garnish.

To make bouquet garni – tie together 4 sprigs parsley, a spray of thyme and a bay leaf.

NIKKI'S CREAM OF ONION SOUP 

3 large Spanish onions, peeled and very thinly sliced 
110 g butter
salt and pepper
50 ml white wine vinegar
250 ml dry white wine
600 ml light chicken stock
300 ml double cream - I used single cream
Croutons, to serve
(Serves 6)

Sweat the onions gently in butter with salt on a very low heat until very soft and mushy - this could take an hour or so. Add the vinegar and reduce until evaporated. Add the white wine and reduce gently by two thirds. Add the chicken stock and simmer for 30 minutes. Liquidize and then put through a fine sieve, add the cream and reheat gently without boiling. Serve with plenty of croutons and chopped parsley.

SHANNON'S CHUNKY MINESTRONE SOUP WITH HERBS

100 g barley, rinsed
2 large onions, peeled and coarsely chopped
a good lug of olive oil
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
3 large carrots, peeled and sliced
1 bunch of leeks, well rinsed and chopped
3 stalks of celery, chopped
3 potatoes, peeled and coarsely chopped
3 bay leaves
small bunch of Italian parsley, coarsely chopped
2 litres of good quality chicken or veggie stock
1 can chickpeas
1 can kidney beans
small bunch of sage leaves, fried to a crisp in oil
(Serves 4)

Cook the rinsed barley in salted water for 20 minutes, until the pearls are reasonably tender. Fry the onions until glassy in the olive oil, then add the garlic and fry for a further 2 minutes. Add all of the vegetables and bay leaves and fry for a further 10 minutes. Add the chopped parsley and stock and simmer gently for 45 minutes. Add the chickpeas and kidney beans, season with salt and pepper and simmer for a further 20 minutes. Serve with the crisply fried sage leaves and chunky bread. 

MICHAEL'S SOUP OF ELGIN CÈPES

Boletus Edulis, Porcini or Cèpes, Pennybuns or Steinpilz all mean one thing - utterly delicious.

Boletus came to South Africa as mycelia nestling amongst the roots of oak trees which were brought in boxes on sailing ships to South Africa in the 18th and 19th Century from Europe.

Now they are to be found in the oak forests of Tokai, Jonkershoek and Elgin and all over the Easter regions of the country in the forests near the Kruger National Park.

The first time I made this soup I was given six of the most beautiful cèpes by Anthony Rawbone Viljoen of Oak Valley.  One of the most utterly delicious fungi, it’s meaty and savoury and one which goes so well with wine - particularly with Anthony's Oak Valley Pinot Noir. Elgin is well known for its excellent Pinot Noir.  Paul Cluver is a next door neighbour.

Cèpes dry beautifully in a cool oven.  They reconstitute superbly for the making of soups and sauces.  I have used Portobello mushrooms with great success for this soup as well, though the flavour of course is - well, less aristocratic.

This soup starts with what Italian cooks call The Holy Trinity, onion, carrot and celery, I actually use leek as I thought the flavour would be softer.  It is important to have good stock, Ina Paarmans is perfect.  You can also use a chicken stock, but use a home made one, I would not recommend a cube for fear of casting an insult on a great mushroom.  Also the Monis Fino is a delicate sherry which adds an enchanting nuttiness to the soup.

2 leeks
2 carrots
2 sticks of celery - all finely sliced
50 g butter
100 ml dry sherry [I used Monis Fino],
6 large cèpes [weighing about 500g] - cut into blocks 
2 litres good vegetable stock
3 bay leaves
3 blades mace
sea salt and freshly milled black pepper
100 ml cream

Prepare the vegetables and start by sautéing the leeks in a saucepan in the butter over medium heat until they have softened and are starting to take on a brown edge, add the carrots and celery and continue cooking for a while until the carrots are starting to soften, you can add a bit more butter is you wish.  Pour over the sherry and allow it to evaporate.  Add the mushrooms and pour over the stock, add the bay leaves and mace and season well with the sea salt and the freshly milled black pepper.

Put a lid on the saucepan, lower the heat and allow to simmer for about 30 minutes.  Process the soup in a blender or in a food processor until smooth, reheat and reseason if necessary, swirl in the cream and serve.

Wine recommendation: Monis Fino Sherry or Oak Valley Pinot Noir from Elgin

LYNN'S CAULIFLOWER VICHYSSOISE WITH NUTMEG AND LEMON

This is a slightly different version of the classic creamy potato and leek soup, offering a new taste without altogether changing the character of the original, and a good choice when you need a soup that’s unfailingly popular, quick to make, and doesn’t require a shopping trip because the ingredients are already in your pantry. Although vichyssoise is traditionally served cold, chilling does tend to dull the flavour, and this one is best served hot.

30 ml (2 tbsp) each oil and butter
2 medium onions, chopped
4 large leeks, white part only, chopped
700 g potatoes, peeled and cubed
500 g cauliflower florets
7 ml (1½ tsp) freshly grated nutmeg
4 x 4 cm strips lemon peel
2 litres (8 cups) hot chicken stock
4 bay leaves
sea salt to taste
125 ml (½ cup) each milk and thick cream
fresh lemon juice (optional)
snipped fresh chives to garnish
(Serves 8–10)

Heat the oil and butter in a large saucepan, add the onions and leeks and sweat over low heat, shaking the pan occasionally and taking care that the vegetables do not brown. When soft and pale, add the potatoes, cauliflower and nutmeg and toss to mix, then add the lemon peel, stock, bay leaves and salt. Cover and simmer until the vegetables are soft – about 25 minutes. Leave to cool down a bit, remove the bay leaves and lemon peel, then purée in a blender, in batches, until smooth. Return to the saucepan, add the milk and cream and reheat, stirring, without boiling. 

Check seasoning – the soup might need a little more salt, and a squeeze of lemon juice to sharpen the flavour. Ladle into warmed soup bowls and sprinkle with chives. 

LYN'S CHLODNIK WITH DILL, CUCUMBER, BEETROOT AND PRAWNS

2 tbsp red wine vinegar
2 tsp salt
½ tsp sugar, or to taste
225 g cooked beetroot, peeled and coarsely grated
1 tbsp arrowroot
150 ml (2/3 cup) soured cream
110 g cooked peeled prawns or shrimp, roughly chopped
½ medium cucumber, peeled, deseeded and sliced
2 spring onions, sliced
2 large red radishes, chopped
3 tbsp fresh dill
2 tbsp lemon juice
freshly milled white pepper

To serve:
12 cooked prawns or shrimp, peeled
½ spring onion, slashed into splinter
2 tbsp chopped beetroot
2 tbsp chopped cucumber
6 sprigs dill
(Serves 6)

Place 4 tsp of vinegar in a small bowl with 1 tsp salt and the sugar. In a large stainless steel or enameled saucepan, bring the beetroot and 850 ml 3 ¾ cups cold water to a boil over a high heat. Add the vinegar mixture, reduce the heat to moderate and simmer slowly for about 20 minutes. 

In a small bowl, combine the arrowroot and 1 tbsp cold water and stir until smooth. Bring the soup to a boil and, using a hand whisk, stir in the arrowroot mixture. Boil and whisk for 3 minutes until the soup has thickened lightly.

Strain the soup through a sieve, reserving the liquid and cooked beetroot separately. Allow to cool. Whisk the soured cream into the beetroot liquid, then stir in the cooked beetroot liquid, then stir in the cooked beetroot, prawns, cucumber, spring onions, radishes, dill, lemon juice and the remaining vinegar. Add salt, pepper and sugar to taste. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, or overnight, until thoroughly chilled. When ready to serve, divide the soup amongst chilled cups of glasses. Add two prawns per serving and sprinkle with the remaining garnishes.

You could use bottled beetroot, but some brands are very sour and some are very sweet, so adjust the flavourings accordingly. Avoid any jars containing large amounts of chemicals as these will interfere with the natural sweet flavour.

If you prefer to cook your own beetroot, be careful not to puncture the skins before boiling. Boil them slowly and steadily for about 1 hour or until they’re tender, and peel the beetroot while they’re still warm.

For best results, make sure the intestines are removed from the prawns. To do this, run the point of a sharp think knife around the large C curve of the prawns and lift out he little brown thread.

To slash spring onions, cut them lengthways from top to bottom in quarter. Then, slice them diagonally into short pieces. The splintered effect looks very pretty as a garnish. 

ANNETTE'S SAFFRON FISH SOUP 

Fragrant and spicy, this is a memorable soup to add to your collection. Far simpler than a classic bouillabaisse, this warming and economical fish soup uses mainly fish trimmings and a profusion of vegetables and spices. Orange-gold threads of saffron a sprinkling of rice, and a little cumin and white wine add to the depth of flavour. Chunks of lightly grilled, firm-fleshed fish are added towards the end of cooking. Just before serving, float garlic toasts in the soup. 

Saffron Fish Soup:
250 g firm, white fish fillets
sea salt
olive oil, for brushing the fish

Fish Stock:
2 kg fish trimmings (including bones, see Cook’s Notes)
1,5 litres (6 cups) cold water
1 onion, halved
3 stalks celery (including leaves)
1 carrot, peeled
4 sprigs parsley
2 bay leaves

Vegetable Base:
30 ml (2 tbsp) olive oil
2 onions, peeled and chopped
2 leeks, washed and sliced
4 ripe tomatoes, peeled and diced
or 400 g can whole tomatoes, roughly chopped in the juice
5 ml (1 tsp) sugar
6 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
3 carrots, diced
1 stalk celery, diced
grated zest of 1 lemon
30 ml (2 tbsp) risotto rice (arborio rice)
6 - 8 threads saffron, crushed
2 ml (½ tsp) medium-strength curry powder
1 ml (¼ tsp) chilli paste
1 ml (½ tsp) fennel seeds
200 ml (¾ cup) dry white wine
(Serves 4)

Trim the fish, salt lightly and brush with olive oil. Place on a baking tray, cover and set aside in the fridge until ready to grill. 

Fish Stock: Place all the ingredients in a large stock pot and bring to the boil. Cover and boil rapidly for 25 to 30 minutes. Remove from the heat, allow to cool, then strain the stock. You should have about 1 litre (4 cups) of stock.

Vegetable Base: Heat the oil in a heavy-based saucepan. Add the onions and leeks, cover and simmer until limp. Add the tomatoes, sugar, garlic, carrots, celery, lemon zest, rice, saffron, curry powder, chilli and fennel. Continue cooking until the vegetables have softened, then add the wine. Cook uncovered for a minute for two, then cover and cook for a further 25 to 30 minutes. 

Add the fish stock to the vegetables, cover and continue simmering for another hour.

Grill the fish under the oven griller for 8 to 10 minutes. Break into chunks and add to the hot soup. When serving, add one garlic toast to each bowl. 

Fish Stock: Use a variety of fish trimmings and include some that have a deep, distinctive flavour. Ask your fish shop for fish trimmings and either use them immediately or freeze them, well protected, until you’re ready to prepare the stock. Keep stock for short periods and thaw covered in the fridge. Wash trimmings thoroughly in up to three changes of cold water. Fish stock, unlike those made with meat or poultry, should be cooked rapidly for only 25 to 30 minutes, then cooled and strained. 

 

 

Garlic Toasts: Roast a whole bulb of garlic in the oven at 180°C for 40 minutes until softened. Press out each garlic clove into a bowl, add a pinch of sea salt and mix until creamy. Spread onto 6 to 8 slices of French bread and toast under a grill until crisp and golden brown.